That's what I have drivers/left side 1,3,5,7 Thanks

 

I was able to change bank 1 knock sensor without disassembly of intake with a 1 1/16" socket and really long extension and swivel from passenger side of motor, also a second set of hands and a magnet. The knock sensor that came out was definitely not a denso brand but I did replace it with a denso and cleared code then test drove and rescanned and so far so good scantool said all test/IM monitor functions complete and no CEL for any codes so Im keeping fingers crossed. Old knock sensor that was removed I did do the recommended test which was continuity check from connector pin to body of sensor (per TRSM) and sensor did not show continuity but I guess it was bad since all seems good, I want to thank all for suggestions, Jake

 

I know this is an older thread, but just in case anyone reads this and has a knock sensor issue they can resolve, I offer my personal experience with the issue in my 1995 LS400. 154,000 miles. After having 1 oil leak after another repaired by mechanic (and I use that word "mechanic" loosly), I started having a knock sensor code pop up now and then. I kept clearing it. Had both knock sensors replaced along with the starter while they were doing other work. The error code kept coming back more frequently until clearing it no longer worked. Searched everywhere online, including this forum. I found a single comment about a faulty PCV valve may cause knock sensor code. I have no idea if that was accurate or not, but it put me on the right path. I Noticed oil seepage around the PCV valve. Not only was the PCV valve filthy inside, the grommet was hard as a rock and had to come out in pieces. I replaced PCV valve and grommet and then the hose. Since I was working my way up the line, I decided to check the EGR. When I took it apart, low and behold it was almost completely clogged with the nastiest of black gunk. Thoroughly cleaned it and put it back together. I have not had a single knock code come back in the past 6 months. This may seem obvious to a lot on here, but I'm learning. What I'm upset about is that even after a mechanic replaced the valve cover gasket, no one noticed the attached PCV valve was old, dirty, and had a crumbling grommet? Later, they replaced the timing belt for my peace of mind while they were fixing a front end oil leak. They replaced the starter while they were in there, and the knock sensors because I told them about the error codes. All that and still missed that PCV valve? Maybe the PCV valve had nothing to do with the knock codes, but how could miss it's condition when valve covers were off?

Sorry, got off track- the engine was probably throwing the knocking codes because it was actually knocking from that sludge almost blocking the EGR. Or maybe it was the combination of the 2. Either way, all it cost me was the cost of of the PCV valve, grommet, and PCV hose. Finally!.......a cheap fix that worked for me.

This may not be your specific reason for having a knock code, but if you've tried everything else except this, give it a try. You won't be wasting too much money, and it probably needs to be done anyway.

 

Thanks for sharing your experience. In case of the PCV valve issue, you usually will have both P0325 and P0330. Did you get both?

 

If I remember correctly, I believe it started with P0325 and P0330, but when it got worse, and clearing the code no longer worked, it was only P0330 that wouldn't clear. It drove my OCD aversion to CEL's bonkers. So much so, that I put a business card in front of it so I couldn't see it staring at me. Thankfully, no more codes, for now, and the engine is running better than I thought it could. Throttle response is much better. I don't know if it's related, but the engine doesn't take 15 minutes for revs to drop down to normal idle speed anymore on a cold start (in South Florida summer).

My main issue now is the AC refrigerant leak that magically happened exactly after the timing belt was changed by the mechanic. He recharged it and told me I probably need a new compressor, which is odd because the AC is awesome until it routinely runs low on refrigerant. Of course I know that would need to be in a different thread, but it's all part of the joy and sorrow of keeping these LS's going. This Forum has been beyond helpful in my particular journey, and I thank everyone here for sharing their wisdom and experience. Hopefully one day soon I'll start my own thread on "Constant" which is what I named her, for the fact that she is, a constant work in progress. Lol

 

You can check sensor operation with a basic scanner that shows live spark timing. You'll see it reduce the timing advance under part throttle acceleration, most likely.