93 ls400 hids not lighting up
#1
Driver
Thread Starter
93 ls400 hids not lighting up
started putting in my 35w hids and hooked up the drivers side and had to move the pins to get positive on the low beam side since im only running a low beam kit not high and low. Hooked it all up and turned lights on and nothing. i know the lights are good cause i hooked them up to my jeep and came on with no problem. Anyone else have issues with this?
#3
Moderator
started putting in my 35w hids and hooked up the drivers side and had to move the pins to get positive on the low beam side since im only running a low beam kit not high and low. Hooked it all up and turned lights on and nothing. i know the lights are good cause i hooked them up to my jeep and came on with no problem. Anyone else have issues with this?
You need to check the DC supply to your HID as rick1987 states first. I'd say, you should check it before you post.
#6
Pole Position
iTrader: (1)
here is a ballast i have used before.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/1999-to-2004-Audi-A6-Allroad-RS6-Xenon-Headlight-HID-Ballast-Control-Unit-Module-/400655844377?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item5d48f30419&vxp=mtr
and projector.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/02-04-AUDI-Hella-A6-S6-RS6-Xenon-HID-D2S-PROJECTORS-3-Lens-PAIR-CHICAGO-/390759302384?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item5afb11c4f0&vxp=mtr
retro fit them in and your good to go. OEM quality hids that will last.
#7
Driver
Thread Starter
I got the kit from ddm tuning, never had problems with any of their kits I'm going to go back through the whole thing again even I get a chance I did find that my fuse for the headlight did blow sometime during this process so hopefully that was the only problem and thanks for the suggestions!
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#8
Driver School Candidate
DDM offers an accessory wiring harness that utilizes a relay and allows you to wire directly to the battery.
Aftermarket HID kits use less energy after igniting, but can require more energy to get the bulb/ballasts to light up.
I've used kits from both DDM and Xentech with good results, but do suggest the relay and harness.
Aftermarket HID kits use less energy after igniting, but can require more energy to get the bulb/ballasts to light up.
I've used kits from both DDM and Xentech with good results, but do suggest the relay and harness.
#10
Moderator
My 98 Celsior has HIDs originally and I don't need to buy any HID kits but I have been in use of this below for my night project for the past several years. It has a HID bulb inside with a ballast and a DC power supply underneath. Originally a high power quartz lamp was inside there and consumed 500W of power. It radiated too much infrared energy and I felt quite uncomfortable doing jobs under or side of this especially during summer seasons and I wanted a bright LED light. But LED lights those days were not bright enough or too expensive.
I thought the HID bulb would be nice for my purpose and I made this. The DC power unit is 12.6V 10A. I thought 10A was enough for a 35W bulb including a start up. But it was not. The ballast needed more than 10A to start up and the bulb did not turned on. I did modifications to the DC power unit to be able to supply some more peak DC current changing the current limiter and also added a big electrolytic capacitor.
As I measured the DC current using a current probe and an oscilloscope, it required peaking 15A at the start up. I never thought that a 35W bulb needed that much. This was partly because the ballast was not designed well. The other day, I tried a Japanese manufacturer Koito's one and it worked fairly well with a much smaller DC power unit.
I thought the HID bulb would be nice for my purpose and I made this. The DC power unit is 12.6V 10A. I thought 10A was enough for a 35W bulb including a start up. But it was not. The ballast needed more than 10A to start up and the bulb did not turned on. I did modifications to the DC power unit to be able to supply some more peak DC current changing the current limiter and also added a big electrolytic capacitor.
As I measured the DC current using a current probe and an oscilloscope, it required peaking 15A at the start up. I never thought that a 35W bulb needed that much. This was partly because the ballast was not designed well. The other day, I tried a Japanese manufacturer Koito's one and it worked fairly well with a much smaller DC power unit.
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