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Fuel release lever

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Old Sep 14, 2012 | 05:31 PM
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Default Fuel release lever

I have a 92 ls400 dwp blue interior with 243,xxx miles on it. This problem has started about 10,000 miles ago as I want to address it now. The fuel door release lever won't open the fuel door. The pull release in the trunk is still working but I want to be able to use the fuel release door lever. Is there a fuse or a connection that can be checked for this? I noticed on my 92 sc300 that the same button will not work when there is no power to the car; as in battery disconnected which leads me to believe that there isn't an electrical signal being sent to open the fuel door. Any one have a fix for this?
Thanks in advance
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Old Sep 15, 2012 | 08:43 AM
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good question..... never had this problem or been exposed to it.... sorry I cant help you. you do know about the manual override cable.. right?

any help out there?
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Old Sep 15, 2012 | 01:10 PM
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check all the fuses, its not usual for the fuel release solenoid to have any problems.
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Old Sep 16, 2012 | 07:56 PM
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Originally Posted by billydpowe
good question..... never had this problem or been exposed to it.... sorry I cant help you. you do know about the manual override cable.. right?

any help out there?
Yes I know about the release cable in the trunk. That's what I have been using to open the fuel door.
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Old Sep 16, 2012 | 07:58 PM
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Originally Posted by PureDrifter
check all the fuses, its not usual for the fuel release solenoid to have any problems.
Ok, I don't have a manual for the LS. Would you happen to know what fuses to check and where?
Thanks in advance
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Old Sep 18, 2012 | 06:47 AM
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I have had this (similar) problem !! Fortunately, it was a simple fix : ) No fuses or cables.

My problem was that the fuel door istself was slightly out of position and didn't allow the latch to clear the door when the realease was activated. The latch is at the rear edge of the door and the spring hinge is at the front edge.

To open the door, I activated the latch realease (you may have to have someone work the release simultaneously?), then I carefully inserted a painters 5in1 tool (anything flat and stiff would work) into the rear door edge gap and applied subtle pressure to pull the door forward slightly and the latch cleared and door popped open. Inspect the hinge and spring bar for damage. Then with the door partially opened, I cautiously applied hand pressure against the door rear edge toward the hinges. This pressure bent the hinge just enough to allow the latch to clear.

Be careful not to bend the spring bar part of the hinge, as that is what causes the door to pop open once the latch is cleared. Also, don't bend the hinge too far or the latch won't catch it when you close the door.

Spray some lithium grease into the latch plunger to ensure free movement.

Hope this easily solves your issue.

Last edited by oldyngoody; Sep 18, 2012 at 06:50 AM.
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Old Sep 22, 2012 | 06:16 AM
  #7  
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Originally Posted by oldyngoody
I have had this (similar) problem !! Fortunately, it was a simple fix : ) No fuses or cables.

My problem was that the fuel door istself was slightly out of position and didn't allow the latch to clear the door when the realease was activated. The latch is at the rear edge of the door and the spring hinge is at the front edge.

To open the door, I activated the latch realease (you may have to have someone work the release simultaneously?), then I carefully inserted a painters 5in1 tool (anything flat and stiff would work) into the rear door edge gap and applied subtle pressure to pull the door forward slightly and the latch cleared and door popped open. Inspect the hinge and spring bar for damage. Then with the door partially opened, I cautiously applied hand pressure against the door rear edge toward the hinges. This pressure bent the hinge just enough to allow the latch to clear.

Be careful not to bend the spring bar part of the hinge, as that is what causes the door to pop open once the latch is cleared. Also, don't bend the hinge too far or the latch won't catch it when you close the door.

Spray some lithium grease into the latch plunger to ensure free movement.

Hope this easily solves your issue.
Thanks for the help, I looked at the fuel door and it looks misaligned in the slightest way. Before trying to open it from the inside I pushed the door towards the front of the car trying to get an even gap between the lid and the body. I then pulled the lever from inside the car and boom! It pops open. I think it's the car body warping over time that makes this happen. Thanks for the help oldyngoody!
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Old Sep 25, 2012 | 05:22 AM
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AWESOME !! I am glad it worked for you !!
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