deceiver

Bought a 1993 for my nephew, looks really clean for the age, but it was not running when I purchased it.

Work done so far:
Fuel filter
Timing belt/tensioner
Rotors/Caps
Water pump
Plug & Wires,
Drive Belt
Changed Oil

After completing the work the car started and idled fine. Once the condensation burned out of the exhaust we took it around the block (1 block), on the way back it started to sputter under medium acceleration. We pulled it into the driveway, and it idled for a bit, heard some ticking from the front of the motor, pulled out my mechanics stethoscope and check to see where it was coming from, no strange noise from anything I could test including the oil pan. It sounded like it was coming from the fan clutch which I had cleaned so it seemed resonable that it had crapped out.

Once I got done testing everything it started running rough, like limp home mode or something, that lasted about 1 minute (I was looking to see it I could guess the problem) then it died.

Tried starting it up, would not start. Checked the FP connector on the diagnostic pannel and I was not getting any voltage. Added 2 gallons of gas and jumped B+ to FP and tried to start it, nothing. At this point we changed the fuel pump. With FP jumped I'm getting fuel, checked with timing gun for spark and get spark from both coils.

When I attempt to start the car it cranks fast, and I get a little putter that I can keep going with the starter running, but working the gas pedal does nothing.

I'm not at a complete loss yet, but I am looking for input/ideas.

Any help appreciated.

Bradster

Not sure this helps but a throttle body cleaning and Seafoam treatment should be on the list

deceiver

Forgot to put that on the list, did a full t-body cleaning and TPS adjustment.

deanshark

OMG this is exactly what happened to mine yesterday except I only got the putter when tried to start one time, now mine just cranks. For some reason I'm thinking crankshaft sensor, I don't know why but it keeps popping in my mind. Right before mine died I was able to peddle it to keep it, barely, running a couple miles. Only got it up to 2200 RPM. I haven't gone out and tested anything yet. Did yours smoke at all? Mine did at one light while it was idleing. If I find anything I'll let you know. If you do, let me know. When you adjusted the TPS could that have caused any problems?

deceiver

Pulled spark plugs to check to see if it was hydrolocking with fuel, no massive amounts of fuel found, turned motor over a few times, no debris shot out.

Tried pulling codes, check engine light was not on when it was running. Blub works, no codes flashed, the bulb just turned off with the wire jumped. Is this normal?

Checking ohms on camshaft and crankshaft possition sensors now, first one is in spec at 1016k ohms.

Also have my nephew draining the fuel from the tank, I'll update you with status as we proceed.

deanshark

I'm looking at the manual and for normal it shows 8 blinks.

JAndersson

No, it doesn't sound normal. According to lexls.com (http://www.lexls.com/tutorials/intro/codereading.html) the lamp will blink continuously every .25 second if no codes are stored.

deceiver

Got the fuel changed, it sounds better when it cranks, still need to check the crankshaft position sensor.. also need to find the real problem with the fuel pump not getting voltage.

It now sounds like it wants to start, I would even go sofar as to say it starts and then kills itself as soon as I stop turning the key. Getting b+ voltage with key on, so it should not be the ignition switch. still can't pull any codes.. I guess after I check the wires I'll pull the ecm and check for leaky caps.

Are there any write ups on the leaky cap issues?