The coils generally (if at all) don't set any fault codes as there is no detection system to tell the ECU cylinders are misfiring. They are also difficult to test, you can measure the resistance of the primary and secondary (HT) sections and trigger the coils to produce a spark but even if all this checks out OK they tend to fail under load or when subjected to heat as the engine warms up so substitution is the best way to go if their operation is suspect.

 

Are you sure about the detection?
There are IGF signals sent to the ECU and the voltage is checked there.

 

I had the same problem a couple days ago... on fathers day I was driving to a fathers day dinner and car shut off in the middle of the street.... Had it towed back to a friends...


When I had time to work on it the following day I used a paper clip and pulled a code 14 before i tried replacing my coils...

It was for a igniter signal fault or some shxt like that.

I checked the igniters with a screwdriver and a speaker wire connected to the battery to simulate a multimeter since i didnt have one on hand and some tattoo needles cut folded into a L shape and snipped the edge to make it a point and put it in the igniters they seemed to have power...

Next step was checking the coils...

had a friend disconnect one of the plugs on either side of the engine and see if they sparked, drivers side didnt fire..
decided maybe it was just the coil... replaced the coil for 55$ from oreilys autoparts.

tested it again still didnt work. Tried switching the wires at the igniter (disconnected them and put the drivers side wire into the opposite igniter still didnt work..

next thought was... possibly the cam and crank sensors...

started following the wires from igniter to the coils.. the drivers side one goes behind the engine then back around to the front. on the drivers side then splits into a y in order to go down to where the drivers side coil's located. Noticed at that Y the wire has a little plastic connector... its not visible at first and is hidden under the engine cover (V8 4 cam etc.. cover) that little plastic part cracked and the wire was disconnected. luckily i was able to just slide the part that has two metal prong looking things back into the connector and its been running fine ever since...

Goodluck with your problem.
Maybe this could be of use to someone.

 

btw... removing the battery is unnecessary to get the coil out just a ratchet and some patience.

 

Thanks for posting that LowPro22 its always nice when there is a fix to a problem on these cars.