Ls400 audio setup thread (The Mother thread)
1999 LS400
Amplifier and Capacitor Install in Trunk: pt.2
Once through the firewall, running the power, rca, and remote turn-on to the trunk of the LS 400 was not very difficult. I first removed the rear seat, to locate an entry point into the trunk. Here is the point I chose. It simply required drilling a ½” hole through the plastic plug and voila, access to the trunk. (see Photo 1) Starting on the passenger side rail, the carpet is held down by clips. Just slip your finger under one side and give them a pull. (Photo 2) Once removed, wires can be tucked nicely underneath carpet and clips re-installed. Continue wire run along rail and through to trunk. (Photo 3) Once in trunk, I chose to use the cubby hole beneath the tool kit to mount my Phoenix Gold MPS-2220 amplifier, and 1 Farad Boss Audio Cap. (Photo 4)
Amplifier and Capacitor Install in Trunk: pt.2
Once through the firewall, running the power, rca, and remote turn-on to the trunk of the LS 400 was not very difficult. I first removed the rear seat, to locate an entry point into the trunk. Here is the point I chose. It simply required drilling a ½” hole through the plastic plug and voila, access to the trunk. (see Photo 1) Starting on the passenger side rail, the carpet is held down by clips. Just slip your finger under one side and give them a pull. (Photo 2) Once removed, wires can be tucked nicely underneath carpet and clips re-installed. Continue wire run along rail and through to trunk. (Photo 3) Once in trunk, I chose to use the cubby hole beneath the tool kit to mount my Phoenix Gold MPS-2220 amplifier, and 1 Farad Boss Audio Cap. (Photo 4)
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Take care,
Take care,
I recently took out the Memphis Audio 12" subwoofer and amplifier out of my '99 Accord and want to put it in my '97 LS400. The guy at Best Buy told me it was at least a 3 hour job, and they'd have to take out my back seat, remove half the dash, and run the power wire underneath the car to make it work. Quoted me at ~$120. The guy also told me the factory amp was behind the 6-disc changer, which if I read correctly on this forum correctly, is actually under the passenger seat.
I'm not changing the factory head unit, and though I have Infinity and Alpine speakers I also took out of my Accord, they are the wrong size, and I don't feel like fabricating to make them fit. I'll be removing the factory sub entirely, leaving the stock system + MA sub/amp.
My friend and I tried wiring it the other day, but couldn't find a place to pass the power wire through the firewall. I understand that at least the '98-'00 models have a grommet which can be removed on the passenger side, after taking the glovebox out. I have no idea how to get the glovebox out of my '97; if it doesn't have the same grommet, I don't see a reason to bother.
So...how do I get the glovebox out? And is this a project I should be letting a "professional" do, or should I get my friends who have done a few basic installs to try tackling it again?
I'm shopping around for other quotes as well.
Thanks in advance guys
I'm not changing the factory head unit, and though I have Infinity and Alpine speakers I also took out of my Accord, they are the wrong size, and I don't feel like fabricating to make them fit. I'll be removing the factory sub entirely, leaving the stock system + MA sub/amp.
My friend and I tried wiring it the other day, but couldn't find a place to pass the power wire through the firewall. I understand that at least the '98-'00 models have a grommet which can be removed on the passenger side, after taking the glovebox out. I have no idea how to get the glovebox out of my '97; if it doesn't have the same grommet, I don't see a reason to bother.
So...how do I get the glovebox out? And is this a project I should be letting a "professional" do, or should I get my friends who have done a few basic installs to try tackling it again?
I'm shopping around for other quotes as well.
Thanks in advance guys
Nevermind guys. Getting it installed for $94 by a dedicated stereo shop Thursday. I'm selling my Infinity Reference 6012i (6.5" 2 way) and Alpine SPS-69C3 (6x9 coax 3 way) speakers to help offset the cost since they won't fit my LS.
I recently took out the Memphis Audio 12" subwoofer and amplifier out of my '99 Accord and want to put it in my '97 LS400. The guy at Best Buy told me it was at least a 3 hour job, and they'd have to take out my back seat, remove half the dash, and run the power wire underneath the car to make it work. Quoted me at ~$120. The guy also told me the factory amp was behind the 6-disc changer, which if I read correctly on this forum correctly, is actually under the passenger seat.
I'm not changing the factory head unit, and though I have Infinity and Alpine speakers I also took out of my Accord, they are the wrong size, and I don't feel like fabricating to make them fit. I'll be removing the factory sub entirely, leaving the stock system + MA sub/amp.
My friend and I tried wiring it the other day, but couldn't find a place to pass the power wire through the firewall. I understand that at least the '98-'00 models have a grommet which can be removed on the passenger side, after taking the glovebox out. I have no idea how to get the glovebox out of my '97; if it doesn't have the same grommet, I don't see a reason to bother.
So...how do I get the glovebox out? And is this a project I should be letting a "professional" do, or should I get my friends who have done a few basic installs to try tackling it again?
I'm shopping around for other quotes as well.
Thanks in advance guys
I'm not changing the factory head unit, and though I have Infinity and Alpine speakers I also took out of my Accord, they are the wrong size, and I don't feel like fabricating to make them fit. I'll be removing the factory sub entirely, leaving the stock system + MA sub/amp.
My friend and I tried wiring it the other day, but couldn't find a place to pass the power wire through the firewall. I understand that at least the '98-'00 models have a grommet which can be removed on the passenger side, after taking the glovebox out. I have no idea how to get the glovebox out of my '97; if it doesn't have the same grommet, I don't see a reason to bother.
So...how do I get the glovebox out? And is this a project I should be letting a "professional" do, or should I get my friends who have done a few basic installs to try tackling it again?
I'm shopping around for other quotes as well.
Thanks in advance guys
Hi... new guy here looking for a simple solution on my '93 LS400 with the Nakamichi system. One of my rear door speakers is blown and I was hoping to upgrade the speakers only, without too much work. I've read every post [all 7 pages] and I didn't see anyone doing this. I'd like to get a reccomendation on what speakers to use for the 4 doors and the the sub woofer in the back. My impresion of the OE system is that this set up is as if the car is wired like a speaker cabinet with a tweeter in upper part of the front door and 2 woofers in both side doors and a sub woofer in the back. With that in mind why would I replace the woofers with 2 ways? Wouldn't it change this configeration? Another question I had was I think I read that the rear sub is a 2 ohm speaker, is this correct? I don't want to overload the OE system. Could someone give me some advice please?:
Thanks for the lead. I spent some time there and got some good ideas but could you answer my other questions? Why would I want to change a woofer to a 2-way, doesn't that completely change it's purpose of just handling mid to low range? And is the OE sub a 2 ohm and will I damage anything if I use a 4 ohm [as the 2 ohms are hard to get].
One last thing... pardon my newnest but what does "No FS in Signatures please" mean?
Oooops.... thought of something else to ask....
Does the external OE amp power all the speakers or just the sub?
One last thing... pardon my newnest but what does "No FS in Signatures please" mean?
Oooops.... thought of something else to ask....
Does the external OE amp power all the speakers or just the sub?
Last edited by jbelway; Jan 22, 2010 at 11:17 AM.
Thanks for the lead. I spent some time there and got some good ideas but could you answer my other questions? Why would I want to change a woofer to a 2-way, doesn't that completely change it's purpose of just handling mid to low range? And is the OE sub a 2 ohm and will I damage anything if I use a 4 ohm [as the 2 ohms are hard to get].
One last thing... pardon my newnest but what does "No FS in Signatures please" mean?
Oooops.... thought of something else to ask....
Does the external OE amp power all the speakers or just the sub?
One last thing... pardon my newnest but what does "No FS in Signatures please" mean?
Oooops.... thought of something else to ask....
Does the external OE amp power all the speakers or just the sub?
I'm not sure about the Nak. system on the first gen, but I'd say it's probable that there's only one external amplifier. (On the first gen Pioneer system, the amp is only for the sub.)
BTW, "FS" means "For Sale". You can add a signature, like mine below, i.e. whatever you want to tell the universe in a line or two (except for "For Sale" that is...).
//Björn
Hi... new guy here looking for a simple solution on my '93 LS400 with the Nakamichi system. One of my rear door speakers is blown and I was hoping to upgrade the speakers only, without too much work. I've read every post [all 7 pages] and I didn't see anyone doing this. I'd like to get a reccomendation on what speakers to use for the 4 doors and the the sub woofer in the back. My impresion of the OE system is that this set up is as if the car is wired like a speaker cabinet with a tweeter in upper part of the front door and 2 woofers in both side doors and a sub woofer in the back. With that in mind why would I replace the woofers with 2 ways? Wouldn't it change this configeration? Another question I had was I think I read that the rear sub is a 2 ohm speaker, is this correct? I don't want to overload the OE system. Could someone give me some advice please?:
8" IB subs are more and more rare.
The JL ZR800 comes to mind. It is made for IB installs.
The magic numbers to look for on an IB sub is Qts above .5 (and the closer .7, the better, with .707 being ideal), and a high X-max so good volume can be achieved. There is MORE to it than that, but that's enough to get you started.
The JL ZR800 comes to mind. It is made for IB installs.
The magic numbers to look for on an IB sub is Qts above .5 (and the closer .7, the better, with .707 being ideal), and a high X-max so good volume can be achieved. There is MORE to it than that, but that's enough to get you started.
I called Crutchfield on the phone, great guys that know their stuff. I ended up with 4 Polk Audio db501's and a Rockford Fosgate P1S48 8" Sub. We're putting them in as I speak. I'll let you know how they sound. Anyone else tried these?
How does the Fosgate sound? I thought that 8" sub had to have an enclosure? Either sealed or vented. Did you use the factory mounting bracket, or did you fabricate a new one? Would love to see pics if you took them.
I figure I can add something of substance to this thread now.
Head Unit: Eclipse AVN5510
Component Speakers: Hybrid Audio Clarus
Amplifier: Cadence ZRS-7504 (bridged 2x300w)
Started with this:

Filled gaping hole with this and sealed to door with silicone:

After B-Quiet sound deadener applied:

Custom MDF baffles and rings made in my basement with a jigsaw and coated with 4 coats of paint to avoid water penetration:

Baffles, speaker and crossover installed:

You'll notice I used non-hardening modelling clay to seal the ring to the baffle and the baffle to the door.

Closed cell foam added to door card where I thought it might be necessary:

Double DIN installed. I painted the install kit but its still not right... obviously:

Front stage amp installed under rear deck. Fiberglass subwoofer enclosure should be done soon and will be installed in passenger side trunk corner:

Obviously I'm no professional. Actually this is my first audio install ever.
Head Unit: Eclipse AVN5510
Component Speakers: Hybrid Audio Clarus
Amplifier: Cadence ZRS-7504 (bridged 2x300w)
Started with this:

Filled gaping hole with this and sealed to door with silicone:

After B-Quiet sound deadener applied:

Custom MDF baffles and rings made in my basement with a jigsaw and coated with 4 coats of paint to avoid water penetration:

Baffles, speaker and crossover installed:

You'll notice I used non-hardening modelling clay to seal the ring to the baffle and the baffle to the door.

Closed cell foam added to door card where I thought it might be necessary:

Double DIN installed. I painted the install kit but its still not right... obviously:

Front stage amp installed under rear deck. Fiberglass subwoofer enclosure should be done soon and will be installed in passenger side trunk corner:

Obviously I'm no professional. Actually this is my first audio install ever.







