yardyetti

With the car running I pushed the AC button. The LED came on solid, but then began blinking on and off. When this button was pushed the 'compressor' sounds like its trying to run but observing it proved that it wasn't turning. What I'm trying to determine is if the compressor is bad. A mechanic said that it was the 'solar sensor' or something in the controls. The system worked last year, although I never felt that it was very cold. I'd like to fix this without spending tons of money so I'm looking for suggestions as to diagnosing and fixing the problem at home. Thanks for any input.

lspower

reason no one responded is because its been covered please do a search and you will find your answers. www.lexls.com

yardyetti

Thank you, very much for your reply

Coozee-Ah

I actually had a problem with my 92 LS 400. I posted a note here two weeks ago and got some great advice/suggestions. So here it is....I'll just copy and paste it. Hope this helps you my friend. Good luck.

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Hey folks,
My A/C wasn't working so I took it to my mechanic to see what the problem was. He found out that there were some holes and so the gas was leaking. So he fixed it all up and said it should be fine...indeed it was working great until a month later. All of a sudden my A/C stopped working and I'm not sure if I did something to wreck it or if it wasn't fixed properly. Is this a problem owners of older lexus experience?I would greatly appreciate if you have any advice or suggestions for me. Thanks....by the way, it blows air but not cold A/C air.

REPLY
if it doesnt even blow air then its a 99% chance that the compressor is fried.
__________________
1. Ebony Teal 1995 LS400
-Nakamichi Stereo
-Muffler Delete
-Otto Racing STB
-15% tint and 50% in front
2. Black on Black 2000 LS400 Platinum Series (dad's)


REPLY
i have a 92 LS400 too had the same problem lexus wanted over $1200 to fix... took it to one of those family auto shop with the crappy commcerials......~$275, the seal were the coolant is, is next to the exshaust and melts it.... that was the problem with mine should be the same with yours.

hope this helps


REPLY
O-rings aren't to replace at all, I resealed my own AC a few years back and it still works great i also retrofitted it to R-134a at the same time.

lorenzo816

OKay what if my AC Display is sadly burned out?

accodes Won't help me now, will they?

So.... Without paying a Diagnostic fee, can someone tell me what my problem(s) is/are.

They story begins:
A few months ago, the AC wasn't getting cold. So I talked to a buddy of mine and he has a huge can of R12. (no its not for sale and yes he has a license but is not a mechanic)
So I slacked on buying an R12 guage and putting some R12 in the car.
At times, I wouldn't run the AC and I just dealt with the heat and at other times I would run the AC knowing that this is probably ruining/stressing my AC system.

Now the other day, I walked in the grocery store, car running, wife in car, not too hot out so we had the AC on low. Came back out to car and heard a "clunking" sound from the front. Went home Clunking goes up and down with RPMs. Does not affect performance of car. (car doesn't drive funny)
Opened hood, noise is presumable coming from the Compressor.

Noise happens when AC button is ON and OFF.
Noise still happens when the Air is OFF.

So,
Is the compressor shot?
OR
Is the Compressor Clutch shot?
OR
Could there be a leak? (if so I'd probably just retro-fit and go from there.)
OR
Did I screw myself by not getting R12 in the car sooner?

I DO have a manual on CD and this weekend I am going to get my tester out and see what I can do following the Trouble-guide(s).
But in the meantime, can someone tell me if I am about to get raped in part$ cost$ because of the dreaded AC black death?

This is my DD and am now driving the Rodeo. I don't want to chance it.

Khiladi

iTrader: (1)

The same exact symptoms happened recently in my 95 Toyota Supra. At first, the air just wouldn't blow cold. Had a recharge of freon done. Couple weeks later, no longer cold and this time a/c light is blinking. Doesn't sound like the compressor is even coming on. Now its been diagnosed that the compressor is fried. I just ordered a used one for my Supra, so after its put in I'll see if all is well again.

lorenzo816

Update.

I drove it to a recommended AC and Radiator place about 15 miles away.
Damn car shut off twice on the way there.
Both times during a low idle - it would abruptly just clunk out and stop.
Noise got louder.

When I got to the shop, we opened the hood and noticed it wasn't the AC but the water pump. Oh sheez!
Oh well. The timing belt has to be done anyhow.
(Since I just rolled over 200k.)

How we figured this out was that the pump pulley would wobble at times but not all the time. But it did make noise all the time.

Bottom line is that if you don't fix this and you continue to drive around, your pump and fan will eventually blow through your radiator and then guess how much you will pay??? Oh! not to mention that the engine is an interference engine Timing belt would not be fun to break!


I would have loved to drag the Lex of that place and fixed it myself.
But I don't have another few days to wait for parts and another free weekend in about a month to change them.

So I'm getting this for just over $700:
AC retrofit with PAG oil. (thoughts anyone?)
A German Timing belt, tensioner and pulley
American made water pump.
this includes labor.

I don't think I'm getting reamed.
What do ya'll think?

Tammy

Any warranty on the job?

Which coolant will be installed?

What is involved in a "retro-fit"? (retro means back or backward; fit is to make) Is this just a evacuate / recharge with new A/C oil and R12?

lorenzo816

Yes there is a 1 year warranty.

Shop told me they would put the correct coolant in.
Any preferences guys?

I've heard that the Red dexcool has some issue with it and GM is getting sued in class action for problems. We don't have the same stuff do we?
I know its pink, but it was pink before GM had their cars with Dexcool???

The retro-fit is for evacuation/recovery and re-oil with PAG, add dye check for leaks and then recharge with R134.

Tammy

Thanks for the clarification

I would supply a couple of gallons of Toyota red LLC (long life coolant) and a couple gallons of steam distilled water. Use this to fill the system. It is good for 30K miles or three years. This was the original equipment coolant .

The green coolant is commonly used with cast iron engine blocks.

The newer Toyota pink super long life coolant is premixed, used right out of the bottle without adding any water. It is good for 100K miles or five years.

When switching from R12 to R134a freon, it is a recommended practice to replace the dryer also.

mobilyte

iTrader: (3)

1uzfe is not an interference engine! i will submit the proof right out of the factory service manual if the mods would like to make it a sticky...

lorenzo816

One more part to replace.

D@mn i!.

This part about did it!

16307-5011

OMG!
What a rip off!
Stealer wanted $250.
No way.

SO I guess I am getting a good deal, when AZDesertGS was paying over a G.

Oh well.
I'll keep you posted.