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melted healight connector

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Old Jan 2, 2003 | 11:19 AM
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Default melted healight connector

I got a quick question...

My passenger side light went out yesterday and I went to pull the bulb out i noticed the whole headlight connector was like melted and corroded. Then I took a look at my driver side one and it is doing the same thing but that one is still functional. My question is, is the connector the same as any other toyota vehicle? Or do I have to go with a Lexus one? your help is greatly appreciated. BTW, its for a 95 GS300.
Thanks in advanced!!!!
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Old Jan 2, 2003 | 03:47 PM
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just wondering? are you using those HID lookalike bulbs in your car?
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Old Jan 2, 2003 | 03:52 PM
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umm...yes im guilty....i thought of that after i posted...is that the reason this happened?
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Old Jan 2, 2003 | 04:29 PM
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yup, it will melt it down when you use wanna be "hid" bulbs..
i've also experienced that....

it melted by passnger side very bad and i had to soder both wires just to make it work.....but after a few weeks, i decided to do the "retrofit" like jmai22........

paid 700 bucks including labor and it wz worth it!!!
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Old Jan 2, 2003 | 05:17 PM
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.
Originally posted by gatewaycraig
umm...yes im guilty....i thought of that after i posted...is that the reason this happened?
Yes...because if you read the box...it should say something like 55w->85w or something. It basically means that the "HID" bulb you're putting in is going to draw 85w of power whereas the factory connectors & wires were made to handle 55w or a little more. Most of the cheapy bulbs like Hiper and Eurolites or similar will most likely melt your harnesses. If you are intent on using the colored type of bulbs, PIAA and the Sylvania Silverstars are a good place to start. The PIAA's don't draw over factory current, and neither does the Silverstars. I believe the PIAA's are in the $70-$100 range, and the Silverstars are around $50. I learned the hard way. I heard the PIAA's also do not have a long life span. Shorter than most stock halogen bulbs anyways . I also heard that Raybrig makes a bulb that doesn't draw over factory wattage, but don't quote me on that .

If the harnesses are melted beyond repair, the only option is to buy new harnesses from the dealer...which means $$. You can also PM Steve from Carson Toyota as he seems to be the man around ClubLexus for OEM & Aftermarket parts. His username is SUPRATRD.
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Old Jan 2, 2003 | 05:20 PM
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thanks everyone. i appreciate it! and "shaka" to you Mischievious G for the info on bulbs....
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Old Jan 3, 2003 | 04:14 AM
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don't go to the dealer. all you have to do is cut your factory wires and buy new 9006 connectors. i can get them for 10 bucks a piece. thats the price i can get them for. and i'll hook you up. you can't find them anywhere unless you go to a junkyard and snip them.
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Old Jan 7, 2003 | 11:24 AM
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Actually, I hve found the 9006 coneectors at Autozone for $1.99 each. I always carry a couple in the glove box after the same thing happened to me.
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Old Jan 7, 2003 | 11:26 AM
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well im gonna put my piaa's back in after i replace the connector...then i'll probably just buy an HID kit...
thanks for the info Rico
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Old Jan 7, 2003 | 06:29 PM
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Originally posted by Rico's Revenge
Actually, I hve found the 9006 coneectors at Autozone for $1.99 each. I always carry a couple in the glove box after the same thing happened to me.
sweet, there we go... first gen sticking together. if i knew i would never pay 10 bucks a piece. it was from the guys at SUVlights.com. he made it should like HE is the ONLY person that can get them.
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Old Jan 9, 2003 | 11:19 AM
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*UPDATE*
Thanks for all the suggestions everyone! I replaced the connector and it works great. It was very easy to do.

THanks again.
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Old Jan 9, 2003 | 06:58 PM
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Originally posted by Mischievious GS
.

Yes...because if you read the box...it should say something like 55w->85w or something. It basically means that the "HID" bulb you're putting in is going to draw 85w of power whereas the factory connectors & wires were made to handle 55w or a little more.

Good point..... but is it really drawing 85w of power? The bulb itself is labeled 55w. Which is it?

PHML
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Old Jan 9, 2003 | 11:49 PM
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Hmmm...I don't think it means that it's drawing 85w of power, but rather that the visible output of light is equivalent to 85w of power. Correct me if I'm wrong but the "=>" sign means the equivalent of/to...right?

Last edited by BR1AN; Jan 9, 2003 at 11:51 PM.
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