SC300/SC400 LED lighting (Interior)
05-20-09, 07:03 PM
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1JZ Single SC400
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SC300/SC400 LED lighting (Interior)
I just replaced all of my interior lighting to include the cluster, all the control buttons, and some other small things. I found all the bulb numbers for the interior lighting such as the glovebox, visors, map light light, entry, trunk, etc, but nothing on what I replaced, so I wanted to share. I hope this has not been covered in as much detail elsewhere. I ordered all of my LEDS from superbrightleds, and went with the color blue and a few of high output white ones for the cluster. The cluster removal and redo is this link.
https://www.clublexus.com/forums/sc-...-lighting.html
I will supply the lighting numbers for all that I replaced.
The Odo/Time bulb x 1, heated seats x 2, trac x 1, norm/pow x 2, temp/vol x 4, are the NeoWedge Instrument LED bulb size is 3mm, size Neox3, in blue. They are currently 1.29 each.
The shifter lighting for the P, and the 1, 2, and D, are the NeoWedge Instrument LED bulb size is 5mm, Neox5, in blue, and you will need 2 of them. They are currently 1.29 each.
The backlighting in the cluster, I used T1.5 LED Twist Lock Lamp or the T1.5-xHP Instrument LED bulb, with the super high output. They are really white in color, and not blue. I ordered this to bring my blue needles out more. You have 8 of them in back of the cluster. They are a tight fit, but work flawlessly. They are currently 2.79 each.
My climate control and needles were done by Lextech Lighting and look awesome. I used the same color scheme.
To get to the odo/time bulb, simply bring your steering wheel all the way out and in the down position. Then take both hands on the black plastic piece under the cluster and pull out and up a little. It should come right out. Unplug both plastic connectors, and walla its out. Turn it over and remove the 2 phillips head screws. Ever so gently pull up on the back plate of the unit while having a very small flat head screwdriver to wedge the side of the unit outward to clear the 2 plastic tabs that holds it together. Once this is out, you will see what I am talking about. Once its apart, fold back the back part, and remove the tan looking plastic piece inside and set aside. Remove the black rubber piece, this holds the buttons in place, set aside. You will then see the bulb. Twist counterclockwise out with a small screwdriver and remove. Install the new bulb. These bulbs have polarity, so if it doesnt work reverse the bulb, and try again. There is also a clear plastic piece in there, remove it completely. I found out that this is a little brighter with out it in. This piece distrubutes the brightness evenly with the old bulb. If you choose to keep it, you MUST file it down, for the new LED to fit properly. Due to the LED being so long. Make sure you put everything back the way you took it apart, and dont forget the tan middle plastic piece!
For the traction control, simply pull up on the cup holder, use evenly pressure. Set aside. Slide down on the bottom of the shifter, and remove those 2 phillips head screws, and remove the shifter. Reach in with both hands and pull up on the inside of the plastic piece, this is where the shifter goes back and forth, and pull up. Make sure it clears the lip of the ashtray top. Unplug the 3 connectors. Remove the 2 bulbs for the P and the D, 1, 2. Replace with new ones. Plug this one only back up and turn your parking lights on to assure they work and are snug.
For the norm/pow, remove the 2 screws that holds in place and set aside. Slide off the black cap piece, be careful and dont break those plastic clips. Then remove the back part piece. Once totalled apart, you will see a white piece that holds these 2 bulbs. On the bottom of the switch, there a small piece of metal thats shaped like a W. Make sure it goes back in the same or the switch will not work. Also reinstall the white piece after you put in the new LEDS the same way you got it out. One good thing about this piece is that you can install the new LEDS and slide the white piece on the connector to see if it works, before putting it back together. Then reinstall everything.
For the Trac, just pull off the back tan piece and remove the bulb, and reinstall the new one and put back together. Its that simple. Those little prongs are the hardest part of all of these things.
For the heated seats, simply remove the tan back piece, dont break those plastic clips, and remove the old bulbs and reinstall the new ones. Make sure you twist all these bulbs, to assure they are tight.
For the temp/vol lighting. Remove the shifter plate, as stated above. Keep the cup holder out, and remove the 8 screws. Then ever so gently slide out the upper radio trim piece. While its partially out, unplug the hazard connector, and the vol/pow connector and place aside. Also unplug the cigarette connector also. Its on the bottom of the trim piece. Set trim piece aside. Turn over on the back side and remove the screws for the vol/pow switch. Remove the back plastic piece, and take out the 4 old bulbs and reinstall the 4 new LEDS. Make sure you twist lock these also. Check by plugging this connector in to make the polarity is correct, before putting back together. One thing to keep in mind, I dont think any of these will light up without the cluster rim piece in and connected, the piece where the odo/time bulb is. Make sure its done first! Once everything checks out put everything back in reverse order.
I hope this covers everything in detail and everyone enjoys the redo lighting of whatever color you choose. This was taking with my camera phone with no flash. The same as the cluster. Soon to come is the LED for the shifter, from red to blue, and both door window switches.
https://www.clublexus.com/forums/sc-...-lighting.html
I will supply the lighting numbers for all that I replaced.
The Odo/Time bulb x 1, heated seats x 2, trac x 1, norm/pow x 2, temp/vol x 4, are the NeoWedge Instrument LED bulb size is 3mm, size Neox3, in blue. They are currently 1.29 each.
The shifter lighting for the P, and the 1, 2, and D, are the NeoWedge Instrument LED bulb size is 5mm, Neox5, in blue, and you will need 2 of them. They are currently 1.29 each.
The backlighting in the cluster, I used T1.5 LED Twist Lock Lamp or the T1.5-xHP Instrument LED bulb, with the super high output. They are really white in color, and not blue. I ordered this to bring my blue needles out more. You have 8 of them in back of the cluster. They are a tight fit, but work flawlessly. They are currently 2.79 each.
My climate control and needles were done by Lextech Lighting and look awesome. I used the same color scheme.
To get to the odo/time bulb, simply bring your steering wheel all the way out and in the down position. Then take both hands on the black plastic piece under the cluster and pull out and up a little. It should come right out. Unplug both plastic connectors, and walla its out. Turn it over and remove the 2 phillips head screws. Ever so gently pull up on the back plate of the unit while having a very small flat head screwdriver to wedge the side of the unit outward to clear the 2 plastic tabs that holds it together. Once this is out, you will see what I am talking about. Once its apart, fold back the back part, and remove the tan looking plastic piece inside and set aside. Remove the black rubber piece, this holds the buttons in place, set aside. You will then see the bulb. Twist counterclockwise out with a small screwdriver and remove. Install the new bulb. These bulbs have polarity, so if it doesnt work reverse the bulb, and try again. There is also a clear plastic piece in there, remove it completely. I found out that this is a little brighter with out it in. This piece distrubutes the brightness evenly with the old bulb. If you choose to keep it, you MUST file it down, for the new LED to fit properly. Due to the LED being so long. Make sure you put everything back the way you took it apart, and dont forget the tan middle plastic piece!
For the traction control, simply pull up on the cup holder, use evenly pressure. Set aside. Slide down on the bottom of the shifter, and remove those 2 phillips head screws, and remove the shifter. Reach in with both hands and pull up on the inside of the plastic piece, this is where the shifter goes back and forth, and pull up. Make sure it clears the lip of the ashtray top. Unplug the 3 connectors. Remove the 2 bulbs for the P and the D, 1, 2. Replace with new ones. Plug this one only back up and turn your parking lights on to assure they work and are snug.
For the norm/pow, remove the 2 screws that holds in place and set aside. Slide off the black cap piece, be careful and dont break those plastic clips. Then remove the back part piece. Once totalled apart, you will see a white piece that holds these 2 bulbs. On the bottom of the switch, there a small piece of metal thats shaped like a W. Make sure it goes back in the same or the switch will not work. Also reinstall the white piece after you put in the new LEDS the same way you got it out. One good thing about this piece is that you can install the new LEDS and slide the white piece on the connector to see if it works, before putting it back together. Then reinstall everything.
For the Trac, just pull off the back tan piece and remove the bulb, and reinstall the new one and put back together. Its that simple. Those little prongs are the hardest part of all of these things.
For the heated seats, simply remove the tan back piece, dont break those plastic clips, and remove the old bulbs and reinstall the new ones. Make sure you twist all these bulbs, to assure they are tight.
For the temp/vol lighting. Remove the shifter plate, as stated above. Keep the cup holder out, and remove the 8 screws. Then ever so gently slide out the upper radio trim piece. While its partially out, unplug the hazard connector, and the vol/pow connector and place aside. Also unplug the cigarette connector also. Its on the bottom of the trim piece. Set trim piece aside. Turn over on the back side and remove the screws for the vol/pow switch. Remove the back plastic piece, and take out the 4 old bulbs and reinstall the 4 new LEDS. Make sure you twist lock these also. Check by plugging this connector in to make the polarity is correct, before putting back together. One thing to keep in mind, I dont think any of these will light up without the cluster rim piece in and connected, the piece where the odo/time bulb is. Make sure its done first! Once everything checks out put everything back in reverse order.
I hope this covers everything in detail and everyone enjoys the redo lighting of whatever color you choose. This was taking with my camera phone with no flash. The same as the cluster. Soon to come is the LED for the shifter, from red to blue, and both door window switches.
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NYCsc300 (07-01-19)
05-20-09, 07:06 PM
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1JZ Single SC400
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Of the cluster..
This is where the dim is nearly all the way down. When it was on the brightest, the camera didnt like it.. It looked real blurry. This gives you an idea on the brightness.
05-21-09, 09:05 PM
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NYCsc300 (07-01-19)
05-25-09, 08:38 PM
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1JZ Single SC400
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You will need 8 Slyvania size 24's for the mph, fuel, tach, and speedometer back lighting. This is for the standard backlighting, or use the above listed numbers for the LED's from Superbrightleds. Glad I could help, from one TSGT to another... Gotta love the Air Force. Just waiting on MSGT.
05-25-09, 09:31 PM
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Keeper of the light
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Lol, at least you knew it was going to do it before you did it. 
Wouldn't hurt to tell people though, not that it can't be seen, but some people's monitors play tricks on them.
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05-26-09, 07:30 PM
#8
1JZ Single SC400
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Your problaly right. I did your DIY headlight lense redo yesterday. Worked out great! I am working on all the lights, to get them where I want them. Next is the clear side markers. I am going to attempt to do them with a old headlight lense cover. This way the lines will match the main headlight assembly. I dont think anyone has attempted that. If I do, I will post another DIY.
06-30-13, 01:19 AM
#10
im having trouble with the door switch lights, volume controls, and hazard light. the ebay LED im trying to use wont light up for some reason? tried switching them around, anything special abotu those?
09-09-13, 05:08 PM
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1JZ Single SC400
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You cant change the color of the needles with any LEDS. I won those off another member (OLT), when he had a contest. I won out of many people, I was considered lucky!!! They are still alive and kicking. They do great work, if you decide to send them off. Read their forum threads, before removing the unit from your SC. GL.
I also wanted to add that the part numbers above are still the same, but I changed them out for a brighter blue LED today. I ordered the 120 degree ones, and I must say OH MY! WHAT A DIFFERENCE, WORTH THE FEW EXTRA BUCKS.
I also wanted to add that the part numbers above are still the same, but I changed them out for a brighter blue LED today. I ordered the 120 degree ones, and I must say OH MY! WHAT A DIFFERENCE, WORTH THE FEW EXTRA BUCKS.
