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Old Sep 13, 2007 | 11:55 AM
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Question 1st gen GS300; A/V system planning

Having just taken possession of my parent's 93 GS300, I have major plans for the car....once I sell mine to fund this project. Other than the requesite Aristo swap, I would like to upgrade the audio as well.

A long time ago, I had a set of USD Waveguides installed in my 93 Probe GT as well as some 6.5 midbass drivers. I would like to, once again, utilize waveguides if possible. Now i realize that underdash space is minimal, so the mini-horns would probably be a good idea. But what about the space underneath the dashboard, by the defroster vents? Mount the horns facing up into the windshield. Has anyone ever removed the dash from a JZS147 to see if there is any room down there? Mounting them this way would eliminate any center console interference and should allow for a HUGE soundstage.

Since I am now in my 30's, I am gravitating towards the "old" stuff; Audio Control EQT's, PPI, ZAPCO, etc for amplification and equalization. I've used this stuff in the past, and never had any complaints. Granted I would like to have video and navigation, but would also like it to compliment the decor, and not stand out glaringly so. So, no fold out monitors.

I am not planning for a competion system; rather one that excels in SQ.

Ideas, thoughts, suggestions welcome.

-Ken
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Old Sep 19, 2007 | 03:07 PM
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Any and all opinions welcome...
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Old Sep 19, 2007 | 07:02 PM
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Sounds like youve got a plan. Ive never taken the dash out, but I wouldnt expect alot of room back there.
When you said you inherited your parents car, I thought you another kid with some dream of having the loudest system at school, apparently I was wrong.
I have some 5.25s on order(should be here tomorrow) so I will be replacing all the doors with them, already have the sub and amp, and reciever, but I will probably go with a pioneer reciever later on, with navi and what not. The indash video/navi recievers are awesome, problem is mounting them in our cars, they dont make a double din kit for our car, so either buy the metra kit and cut it, or buy a second gen GS dash kit and cut it. Either way I hope your good with a dremel because otherwise your limited to single din.
I hope this helps, I know I kinda ramble, but as it flows into my head, it flows out my finger, haha. Good luck.
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Old Sep 20, 2007 | 06:30 AM
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Rambling is good....I do it all day. LOL

After talking to my friend and installer, we will be doing a Kenwood DDX7019 in a custom install. For speakers, I am leaning towards the mini-horn component set from Image Dynamics. Probably will have to go under the dash. But, I actually saw a shop near me that installed horns in the GS300, so I have to make it a point to go take a look and listen. Sub-bass will be provided by JL W7(s).

Amplification will be all "old school", 'cause...well.... I'm older now and still like the gear I had back in the day. Only problem is finding it and getting it at a good price.

I listen to a wide variety of music, including classical, techno, oldies, big-band, rock etc. so the system will be geared for sound quality and clarity.
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Old Sep 20, 2007 | 08:34 PM
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Im the same way, I love all kinds of music, my classical come from movies trailer, where as it isnt classical, but orchestra I guess.
I have Lanzar everything, more new school, the speakers on order are jensen, my budget isnt very big right now as Im am saving so I can do the turbo the right way the first time. Just need some sort of mid-bass, the stock 4" arent getting it done, and like I said, I dont have the money for some good 4" speakers that can provide the midbass. Hopefully the jensens wont sound bad, they have served me well with home audio so hopefully car audio is no different.

As far as your situation, I think the horn idea is awesome, will sound really great, hopefully they can install it, and since you said its been done, Im sure they will. I think you will find that one W7 will suffice. I have 1 Lanzar 10" sub, handling power is around 700 watts RMS at 2 ohms, and I think the amp I have is rated at 800 RMS at 2 ohms, its pretty freakin loud, only complaint I have is I need a new box because the one I have I think I stripped the screw holes so it doesnt hold the sub right and air escapes causing a bad sound .
Keep me updated on your install, wether it be this thread, or by PM, I want pictures and info on how it sounds. Ill let you know how the 5 1/4s sound after this weekend.
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Old Sep 20, 2007 | 09:11 PM
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If you want great sounding sub-bass ask your shop to make a fiberglass enclosure under your rear deck with 1-12" JL w3 and push it with 250-300 watts RMS..This will allow the sub to fire directly into the cabin of your car and will give you very tight and accurate bass..The sub will drop right into the factory enclosure and wont take up your whole trunk..The idea of installing W-7's in a ported or sealed box in the trunk of our car will only cause trunk rattle and sloppy bass.I spent 4 years trying many different set-ups and using the rear deck with a 1.25 cu.ft. enclosure gave the best sound, even better than 3-10's powered by 600 watts in sealed box..
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Old Sep 21, 2007 | 05:44 AM
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Originally Posted by johnee78
If you want great sounding sub-bass ask your shop to make a fiberglass enclosure under your rear deck with 1-12" JL w3 and push it with 250-300 watts RMS..This will allow the sub to fire directly into the cabin of your car and will give you very tight and accurate bass..The sub will drop right into the factory enclosure and wont take up your whole trunk..The idea of installing W-7's in a ported or sealed box in the trunk of our car will only cause trunk rattle and sloppy bass.I spent 4 years trying many different set-ups and using the rear deck with a 1.25 cu.ft. enclosure gave the best sound, even better than 3-10's powered by 600 watts in sealed box..
Thanks. Yeah, tight and musical is more important to me now than boomy and loud.

Question: So what you are saying is to make the rear deck the "top" of the enclosure and use fiberglass to create the "sides" and "bottom"? And to seal the fiberglass enclosure to the underside of the rear deck?
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Old Sep 21, 2007 | 06:25 AM
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Originally Posted by Karin'sGS3
Thanks. Yeah, tight and musical is more important to me now than boomy and loud.

Question: So what you are saying is to make the rear deck the "top" of the enclosure and use fiberglass to create the "sides" and "bottom"? And to seal the fiberglass enclosure to the underside of the rear deck?
Correct..Its kinda like making the enclosure and then bolting it underneath the rear deck.Since its made of fiberglass it wont be that heavy but it has to be strong to withstand the pressure the sub makes..As for the mids and highs you can run 5.25 in the factory speaker pods but if you want to run 6 or 6.5 you will have to make speaker plates..the rears I would just install 4" because its just rear fill..
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