New system install going kaput
04-13-07, 09:24 PM
#31
Lexus Test Driver
Well-- That would be correct-- I doubt the guys are completely stupid --
The wires you had running to your harness from your head unit amp are now running to the new outboard amp-- I guess you eliminated your oem amp alltogether--
We're just trying to make sure you have the factory amp disconnected completely from the speakers as well as power if you're not using it -- If the factory amp and aftermarket amp were both powered up and both connected to each speaker that would make a serious problem--
Soooo-- You said you disconnected the sub and the amp stopped cutting off-- I wonder if you ever tested that sub with a multimeter-- If the speaker wire were damaged to it the meter would read a short-- or 0.000 resistance/ohms -- instead of 6.8 ohms-- which is what it should read if wired in series like you say it is--
The next thing is-- your factory speakers are much more sensitive than the aftermarkets, meaning that per 10w they'll have much more output-- but be driven to their max output much more quickly-- The aftermarket components will take a lot more power to make the same volume, but be able to use more power to achieve even higher total volume levels--
I would leave the sub disconnected, and look at where your gains for the front speakers are set-- you may need to turn the gains up a good bit to get the amp making some more power-- maybe 1/4 turn to start-- which should be a noticeable increase-- Bass output will still be determined by the crossover frequency-- you may want to turn the front xovers down to about 85~hz -- they may be set higher as of right now-- I've always had good results with 80~100hz for 6.5's -- different mids play lower than others-- My cadence mids will play down to 80hz very well-- but they're huge and look like aluminum subs more than mids--
If this increase in gain and proper setting of the crossover doesn't net a noticeable increase of front speaker output-- you may have an amp problem given that the speaker wires you're using were working fine on the deck power--
These adjustments should however really increase the output and may just be the reason you're not satisfied with the volume level--
A 50w channel will really need a good push to get a solid component set to really crank---
I'd be interested to see what a multimeter reads on that sub if the adjustments above do make a big difference for you--
After these steps listed, you will know your amp is bad, but until then you can't be sure--
1.Signal to amp is unobstructed (good quality unbroken RCA's from good h/u)
2.Power wire to amp is adequate-- you have 4ga so it should be fine there
3.Speaker wires are unbroken and something bigger than 22ga --(which still wouldn't cause this problem)
4.Speakers are working properly and undamaged-- (as in good voice coils that are not smoked/seized and shorting the amp channel)
At this point I'd be metering every speaker wire with a multimeter to check the ohms/resistance at each speaker-- if you see 0.00 ohms at any of the speaker wires-- that's a wire with a short in it (pos is touching neg somewhere)-- IF it reads "OL" the wire is broken (lead is severed somewhere= likely not the case if you have sound at all speakers and ran good wire)
IF -- by chance a shop is able to bench test your amp just to verify it's in proper working order-- and load test it with a sub-- that would be a good option -- most will do it for $30 -- some will do it free--
OR-- You could just hook up the amp in another car-- with only the sub connected-- that would tell you if the amp is fine-- if you get the sub kicking good and it's not throwing the amp into protection--
The alternator-- I'm sure you would know if you had a bad alternator-- you wouldn't need to step up above the oem amperage -- 100A is more than enough to run this amp and maybe a small sub amp too-- I was just being certain your alternator wasn't near toasted making 8v and 25a or something--
The wires you had running to your harness from your head unit amp are now running to the new outboard amp-- I guess you eliminated your oem amp alltogether--
We're just trying to make sure you have the factory amp disconnected completely from the speakers as well as power if you're not using it -- If the factory amp and aftermarket amp were both powered up and both connected to each speaker that would make a serious problem--
Soooo-- You said you disconnected the sub and the amp stopped cutting off-- I wonder if you ever tested that sub with a multimeter-- If the speaker wire were damaged to it the meter would read a short-- or 0.000 resistance/ohms -- instead of 6.8 ohms-- which is what it should read if wired in series like you say it is--
The next thing is-- your factory speakers are much more sensitive than the aftermarkets, meaning that per 10w they'll have much more output-- but be driven to their max output much more quickly-- The aftermarket components will take a lot more power to make the same volume, but be able to use more power to achieve even higher total volume levels--
I would leave the sub disconnected, and look at where your gains for the front speakers are set-- you may need to turn the gains up a good bit to get the amp making some more power-- maybe 1/4 turn to start-- which should be a noticeable increase-- Bass output will still be determined by the crossover frequency-- you may want to turn the front xovers down to about 85~hz -- they may be set higher as of right now-- I've always had good results with 80~100hz for 6.5's -- different mids play lower than others-- My cadence mids will play down to 80hz very well-- but they're huge and look like aluminum subs more than mids--
If this increase in gain and proper setting of the crossover doesn't net a noticeable increase of front speaker output-- you may have an amp problem given that the speaker wires you're using were working fine on the deck power--
These adjustments should however really increase the output and may just be the reason you're not satisfied with the volume level--
A 50w channel will really need a good push to get a solid component set to really crank---
I'd be interested to see what a multimeter reads on that sub if the adjustments above do make a big difference for you--
After these steps listed, you will know your amp is bad, but until then you can't be sure--
1.Signal to amp is unobstructed (good quality unbroken RCA's from good h/u)
2.Power wire to amp is adequate-- you have 4ga so it should be fine there
3.Speaker wires are unbroken and something bigger than 22ga --(which still wouldn't cause this problem)
4.Speakers are working properly and undamaged-- (as in good voice coils that are not smoked/seized and shorting the amp channel)
At this point I'd be metering every speaker wire with a multimeter to check the ohms/resistance at each speaker-- if you see 0.00 ohms at any of the speaker wires-- that's a wire with a short in it (pos is touching neg somewhere)-- IF it reads "OL" the wire is broken (lead is severed somewhere= likely not the case if you have sound at all speakers and ran good wire)
IF -- by chance a shop is able to bench test your amp just to verify it's in proper working order-- and load test it with a sub-- that would be a good option -- most will do it for $30 -- some will do it free--
OR-- You could just hook up the amp in another car-- with only the sub connected-- that would tell you if the amp is fine-- if you get the sub kicking good and it's not throwing the amp into protection--
The alternator-- I'm sure you would know if you had a bad alternator-- you wouldn't need to step up above the oem amperage -- 100A is more than enough to run this amp and maybe a small sub amp too-- I was just being certain your alternator wasn't near toasted making 8v and 25a or something--
04-14-07, 06:24 AM
#32
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Well-- That would be correct-- I doubt the guys are completely stupid --
The wires you had running to your harness from your head unit amp are now running to the new outboard amp-- I guess you eliminated your oem amp alltogether--
We're just trying to make sure you have the factory amp disconnected completely from the speakers as well as power if you're not using it -- If the factory amp and aftermarket amp were both powered up and both connected to each speaker that would make a serious problem--
Soooo-- You said you disconnected the sub and the amp stopped cutting off-- I wonder if you ever tested that sub with a multimeter-- If the speaker wire were damaged to it the meter would read a short-- or 0.000 resistance/ohms -- instead of 6.8 ohms-- which is what it should read if wired in series like you say it is--
The next thing is-- your factory speakers are much more sensitive than the aftermarkets, meaning that per 10w they'll have much more output-- but be driven to their max output much more quickly-- The aftermarket components will take a lot more power to make the same volume, but be able to use more power to achieve even higher total volume levels--
I would leave the sub disconnected, and look at where your gains for the front speakers are set-- you may need to turn the gains up a good bit to get the amp making some more power-- maybe 1/4 turn to start-- which should be a noticeable increase-- Bass output will still be determined by the crossover frequency-- you may want to turn the front xovers down to about 85~hz -- they may be set higher as of right now-- I've always had good results with 80~100hz for 6.5's -- different mids play lower than others-- My cadence mids will play down to 80hz very well-- but they're huge and look like aluminum subs more than mids--
If this increase in gain and proper setting of the crossover doesn't net a noticeable increase of front speaker output-- you may have an amp problem given that the speaker wires you're using were working fine on the deck power--
These adjustments should however really increase the output and may just be the reason you're not satisfied with the volume level--
A 50w channel will really need a good push to get a solid component set to really crank---
I'd be interested to see what a multimeter reads on that sub if the adjustments above do make a big difference for you--
After these steps listed, you will know your amp is bad, but until then you can't be sure--
1.Signal to amp is unobstructed (good quality unbroken RCA's from good h/u)
2.Power wire to amp is adequate-- you have 4ga so it should be fine there
3.Speaker wires are unbroken and something bigger than 22ga --(which still wouldn't cause this problem)
4.Speakers are working properly and undamaged-- (as in good voice coils that are not smoked/seized and shorting the amp channel)
At this point I'd be metering every speaker wire with a multimeter to check the ohms/resistance at each speaker-- if you see 0.00 ohms at any of the speaker wires-- that's a wire with a short in it (pos is touching neg somewhere)-- IF it reads "OL" the wire is broken (lead is severed somewhere= likely not the case if you have sound at all speakers and ran good wire)
IF -- by chance a shop is able to bench test your amp just to verify it's in proper working order-- and load test it with a sub-- that would be a good option -- most will do it for $30 -- some will do it free--
OR-- You could just hook up the amp in another car-- with only the sub connected-- that would tell you if the amp is fine-- if you get the sub kicking good and it's not throwing the amp into protection--
The alternator-- I'm sure you would know if you had a bad alternator-- you wouldn't need to step up above the oem amperage -- 100A is more than enough to run this amp and maybe a small sub amp too-- I was just being certain your alternator wasn't near toasted making 8v and 25a or something--
The wires you had running to your harness from your head unit amp are now running to the new outboard amp-- I guess you eliminated your oem amp alltogether--
We're just trying to make sure you have the factory amp disconnected completely from the speakers as well as power if you're not using it -- If the factory amp and aftermarket amp were both powered up and both connected to each speaker that would make a serious problem--
Soooo-- You said you disconnected the sub and the amp stopped cutting off-- I wonder if you ever tested that sub with a multimeter-- If the speaker wire were damaged to it the meter would read a short-- or 0.000 resistance/ohms -- instead of 6.8 ohms-- which is what it should read if wired in series like you say it is--
The next thing is-- your factory speakers are much more sensitive than the aftermarkets, meaning that per 10w they'll have much more output-- but be driven to their max output much more quickly-- The aftermarket components will take a lot more power to make the same volume, but be able to use more power to achieve even higher total volume levels--
I would leave the sub disconnected, and look at where your gains for the front speakers are set-- you may need to turn the gains up a good bit to get the amp making some more power-- maybe 1/4 turn to start-- which should be a noticeable increase-- Bass output will still be determined by the crossover frequency-- you may want to turn the front xovers down to about 85~hz -- they may be set higher as of right now-- I've always had good results with 80~100hz for 6.5's -- different mids play lower than others-- My cadence mids will play down to 80hz very well-- but they're huge and look like aluminum subs more than mids--
If this increase in gain and proper setting of the crossover doesn't net a noticeable increase of front speaker output-- you may have an amp problem given that the speaker wires you're using were working fine on the deck power--
These adjustments should however really increase the output and may just be the reason you're not satisfied with the volume level--
A 50w channel will really need a good push to get a solid component set to really crank---
I'd be interested to see what a multimeter reads on that sub if the adjustments above do make a big difference for you--
After these steps listed, you will know your amp is bad, but until then you can't be sure--
1.Signal to amp is unobstructed (good quality unbroken RCA's from good h/u)
2.Power wire to amp is adequate-- you have 4ga so it should be fine there
3.Speaker wires are unbroken and something bigger than 22ga --(which still wouldn't cause this problem)
4.Speakers are working properly and undamaged-- (as in good voice coils that are not smoked/seized and shorting the amp channel)
At this point I'd be metering every speaker wire with a multimeter to check the ohms/resistance at each speaker-- if you see 0.00 ohms at any of the speaker wires-- that's a wire with a short in it (pos is touching neg somewhere)-- IF it reads "OL" the wire is broken (lead is severed somewhere= likely not the case if you have sound at all speakers and ran good wire)
IF -- by chance a shop is able to bench test your amp just to verify it's in proper working order-- and load test it with a sub-- that would be a good option -- most will do it for $30 -- some will do it free--
OR-- You could just hook up the amp in another car-- with only the sub connected-- that would tell you if the amp is fine-- if you get the sub kicking good and it's not throwing the amp into protection--
The alternator-- I'm sure you would know if you had a bad alternator-- you wouldn't need to step up above the oem amperage -- 100A is more than enough to run this amp and maybe a small sub amp too-- I was just being certain your alternator wasn't near toasted making 8v and 25a or something--
04-15-07, 10:11 AM
#34
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hooked up new amp
ok I hooked up the new amp, ppi pc 650......turned system up without sub connected, no problem........now here is the problem, on this amp there is a place to put the wires for the sub, but no place to put the rca's for the sub????? I will post a picture if need be..
04-15-07, 10:45 AM
#35
Lexus Test Driver
It uses the front rca's to feed the sub channel, or maybe the rears-- But either way, you just answered one of my questions about your RCA config-- I guess you have a set for front, rear, and sub right?? Not that it matters, I was just wondering-- Maybe those guys weren't so dumb afterall--
Just throw the sub in there and test it-- It's possible that your JL amp needs repair-- They'll do that sometimes, where they still seem to work, but cut out under heavy power use-- and sound (almost) fine at low/medium volumes-- but still need repair-- pretty strange-- maybe you're still under warranty-- Either way having it repaired shouldn't be a hassle--
Those were the days when PPI and Xtant were the top dawgs-- Zero problems with their amps for well past the intended use time--
Just throw the sub in there and test it-- It's possible that your JL amp needs repair-- They'll do that sometimes, where they still seem to work, but cut out under heavy power use-- and sound (almost) fine at low/medium volumes-- but still need repair-- pretty strange-- maybe you're still under warranty-- Either way having it repaired shouldn't be a hassle--
Those were the days when PPI and Xtant were the top dawgs-- Zero problems with their amps for well past the intended use time--
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