clammbo

Okay took my 93 gs300 to the stereo shop to have Eclipse componet speakers installed in the front and eclipse 6.5 installed in the back....I also had a 10 inch infinity kappa perfect installed in where the factory sub was....also a jl e6450 6 channel amp to run the whole system......here is the problem....when the bass hits the whole system cuts out......shop says the JL amp is going into protection mode......seems to only happen when you get a little bass going......any idea's.....I have another 6 channel amp I am going to try tomorrow.

MJHSC400

What sort of power wire was installed? And how is it grounded?

That would happen if you ran like a 10ga from the battery or smaller--

Usually happens from volt drop going waaayyy lower than it should-- amp gets hot from underpowering and cuts off--

clammbo

I sure they wouldn't have installed a 10gage wire in the car "but who knows" I am going to check.....now with the amp getting hot, the problem happens as soon as I turn it up, I mean I could be in the car for 5 seconds......

clammbo

just checked, power wire is 4 gauge

MJHSC400

Amp is getting hot-- I wonder what version the sub is (10.1 or 10.1d??) vs. the rated max load of the amp--

Could be the amp at fault, but also could be a 2ohm sub on a 4 ohm amp--

cjones4640

I would say his amp is starving for amps...MJHSC400 knows his stuff..but i would try getting a second battery and or upgrading your alternator.

im having that same problem now...and i have a 3 farad cap..but i knew when i installed my stuff this would happen..i just wanted to see how it would sound ... but im in the process of ordering two 1400 kinectik(sp?) batts and have a shop build my box to port through the sub hole ....stupid gas tank

engin_ear

iTrader: (1)

You might have a wiring problem that has caused the impedance that the amp sees to be TOO LOW, below the minimum that the amp can handle. IF this is the case, as soon as you require the amp to produce any current (you turn up the volume/bass), it cuts off. Have them recheck the METHOD of the wiring, not just the connections. The amp may be incorrectly set up as far as its settings go. You may have two channels fighting each other-they could be wired wrong. If you only have one sub you may need to be in 'bridged' mode, wired to both of the sub's voice coils, to get it to work correctly and not fight itself.

Jerry

clammbo

according to the shop they checked all the wiring, they beleive that the amp is going into protection mode and they don't know why...they beleive something is wrong with the amp....I have another 6 channel amp that I am going to hook up today....so my question when I hook up the new amp, and if it does the same thing it is the wiring?

MJHSC400

Which is why i asked if the sub is a dual or single voice coil model, and I haven't checked the amps specs -- I can draw a solid 750w from my stock charging system and the lights don't even dim (class D sub amp)--

I'm doubting it's the charging system unless that amp is like a 200x6 or something--

I'm betting it's either the amp itself, or the sub is the wrong ohm/resistance for the amp's 2 channels you're using it on--

ALSO

Try this-- Because a broken speaker wire could cause your amp to go into protection every time you try to use it, and most times amps go into protection it means they're working properly--

Disconnect one channel at a time-- sub first-- (after you've determined it's the proper ohm load for your 2 bridged channels) --

Disconnect the rear speakers wires-- one side at a time-- then the fronts, one side at a time--

Then, with all of them disconnected reconnect the sub--

This is how you'll track down the broken speaker wire if it's there--

I still think it's a smpler problem like the wrong impedance sub though--

I'm betting it's a 10.1D Perfect, which is 2 ohm, and the amp is a class A/B that wants to see 4 ohm on the bridged channels.

If the amp is new I doubt it's the problem-- JL has tight quality control that wouldn't let something like this out the door--

MJHSC400

According to these specs, your amp is a class A/B - and will make maybe 600w with enough voltage-- but no more than that-- A pair of the channels will make 150w to power the sub at 12.5v -- which is about right in an IB setup, but still a little on the weak side-- though at 15v it may see closer to 200w rms--

This system should work very well, I'm just confused as to the cause of your problem--

We Know This--

Unless your battery/alt haven't been checked and there's a problem there, current isn't the problem--

The amp is class a/b so it will get hot very quickly if there is a wiring problem or a sub of the improper resistance for the amp--

Shops can screw up!!!!!! I promise you that one.

clammbo

the sub is the 10.1d perfect.....if the sub is the problem, what do I do change the sub out? or can I keep the sub and change something in the setup? also if the sub is the problem when I disconnect the sub should my problem stop?

MJHSC400

AHHHHH-- The problem-- Your sub is a dual 4 ohm voice coil sub-- so you are bridging two channels that need to see a 4ohm load, but you're showiing them a 2ohm load-- immediately drawing double the current from the power supply that it's rated for-- and it's automatic protection every single time--

I knew when you said it was anytime there was a little bass--- as the sub's resistance won't go up and the amp won't even see the resistance until it starts sending the sub signal--

Your solution

A. Re-wire the sub's voice coils in series instead of parallel-- this will show the amp an 8ohm load, and no more protection -- BUT-- your sub will only get 100w -- maybe a little more if you crank the gain and bass boost up a bit-- but it's likely you'll appreciate it's output enough to leave it this way IF you refuse to buy another sub--

B. Swap your sub for a 10.1 single voice coil version if you can find one-- The Perfect VQ is nice too-- But if you can't find one just grab a TC sounds DB500 for like $90 or a TC-1000 -- which is closer to a perfect's sq-- though both should be right there with it in the SQ category, BUT will both get much louder while being just as clean-- AND handle all the power much better in an IB config.. -- You just need to be sure you've got a 4ohm sub-- single vc, or a dual 2ohm wired in series, or a dual 8ohm wired parallel-- you get the idea--

BTW-- I envy that you can even install a real sub in your rear deck--

Stupid gas tank.

MJHSC400

Fret not good man-- You're mere inches from having a great sq setup--

I can't believe that shop didn't catch that one though-- That's the problem with hiring low paid gophers-- they say they can, but can they really?

clammbo

ok last question, how do I rewire it to series? I check the website and it states this config is not recommended, but if that's what works I will do it.....

MJHSC400

Uhhh -- It's a dual vc sub-- you can either use it in series or parallel-- that's the reason for dvc subs-- flexibility-- you can run 8 d4's on a single 2ohm high current amp for competition setups for a nice loud burp--

This will drop the power output of the bridged channels, but it'll still sound great and you'll likely love me for this-- don't get too frisky though--

You'll connect the amp + to one vc +, and the amp - to the opposite vc -, then run a jumper wire from the two vc terminals leftover-- Just like running a resistor or a inductor coil in series-- or batteries for that matter--

Like This :


Just like a trolling motor-- 24v is a pair of batteries with the pos. connected to the other battery's neg, then the pos and neg leads from the motor connected to the two post's left, battery 1's positive and battery 2's negative- making 24v, -

Whereas-- for car audio-- you would just connect two batteries together pos to pos and neg to neg-- keeping the volts the same, but doubling the capacity--