I just bought a JL 10w6v2 and a JL 300/2 amp to install in my '99 gs400 non-Nak. I am planning on bridging the amp to run 300 watts @ 8ohms in the the 10w6v2 which I will wire in series so that the DVCs create an 8 ohm impedence. After reading many of the posts, it seems as if I should insist that the installer run an LLC from the speaker wires between the head and the pioneer amp. Is this correct (as opposed to tapping the high level going to the pioneer factory sub)? Also, does anyone have an opinion on running the subs at 8ohm? The JL amp is rated for 300 watts from 3 to 8 ohms, but the sub will only run at 2 or 8, thus if I keep the amp, I need to wire the subs for 8ohms... I am planning on ditching the factory sub and positioning the new box so that the amp fires through the factory hole. Is this a good plan??

If anyone has a 10w6, please give me any comments on how you like it, anything to know about install, etc.... Many thanks.

 

The 10W6 V2 is an excellent speaker.
No, there are no 'speaker' wires between headunit and amp. There are multiple sets of preamp lines, and you don't want to mess with them unless you have experience doing so, it's not trivial. You probably read a post that indicated that the quality is better if you do that, but because of the CD + headunit, there are two preamp sets that the stock amp combines, so you can't just tap one of them.
The easier way to do it (most people that are just adding bass have done it this way) is to tap the sub wires and add an LLC, then go into your new amp. Bridging the amp into an 8 ohm load will be fine. The only other way to do it would be to drive the voice coils independently, without bridging the amp (each channel then sees a 4-ohm load), but this is not preferred because any interchannel phase differences will be cancelled at the sub.
Your mounting plan is good, just plan on doing some de-rattling of the rear deck and cover. Make sure you mount the speaker low enough that the outward excursion of the surround does not hit the underside of the rear deck.

 

Thanks for the quick response!! I really appreciate the advice of fellow CL members.

Now I am more confused... I am planning on having an installer do the work, so I don't want to cut corners unless it is just not financially feasible. What's the deal with two sets of preamps (CD + Head), how would the installer need to wire it to get a signal before it goes into the factory amp? Is this possible at all?? If it is possible, what is needed and how can I tell if the installer just tapped the sub lead coming out of the factory amp, or if he did whatever special work is required to get me a combined CD+head signal leading to my new amp? If all he is going to do is tap the Lexus wires in the trunk, it would seem a whole lot less work and a whole lot less labor, i.e. less $$$. BTW: I was quoted $70 for amp install labor, $45 for wires, and $20 for LLC. Is this decent?

Alternatively, if I go the route of tapping the sub wires what kind of LLC do I need? It seems that most LLCs are not rated for 50-60 watts that are running into the pioneer factory sub. I would hate to burn out my new system even before I get to enjoy it and I don't really know if the installer realizes what he is working with yet. He claims to have worked on Lexus before, and there were 3 or 4 BMWs out front, but you never know.

Thanks again.

 

The preamp signals from the headunit and CD player are switched inside the stock amp. To eliminate the amp, you need to add a preamp switcher in its place, and you also need to have a way to adjust volume and tone. I believe a few people here on CL have done it, but it is not an easy thing to do, and if you're not doing the install yourself AND you don't have an installer that's both familiar and has done it before, I don't really recommend it. There are ways to do it, but some involve a very high level of expertise, and some involve compromises that you may not be willing to live with. You can try PM'ing 'lexusaudio' for more details, I think he's up to speed on all the picky details for this, and may have some ideas. My opinion is that if you're not using the stock amp to provide the POWER for the sub (i.e. will not be driving the sub directly) and the load is only a high impedance input of the new amp, then it should operate fairly cleanly and using the LLC method is acceptable. (The amp really only distorts when asked to provide more power than it can handle.) I haven't heard ANY complaints on CL from anyone who has done the LLC thing.
I think your install prices are reasonable. For the LLC, you can use an Audiolink Powerlink II, available from Crutchfield.com and other sources. It is a purely passive device and will maintain audio quality without introducing noise.