why does my 12w7 bass cuts out?
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From: CA
why does my 12w7 bass cuts out?
i have a jl 12w7 and jl1000.1 amp and the pioneer avic d1... my bass is always at -1 or lower, sometimes when i turn the volume over 35 the bass cuts off for like a few seconds, it wil keep doing it until i lower the volume.... can this be a sub thats about to burned? i just bought this new like 2 months ago and i never even turn it pass volume 40... i heard this 1000.1 amp is made particularly for the 12w7 and that it shouldnt be be this?..any ideas? thanks
What car do you have?
That 1000/1 requires a hefty amount of current in order for it to perform at X volume. This also means your ground wire may not be enough. What gauge is your ground wire and how long is it?
That 1000/1 requires a hefty amount of current in order for it to perform at X volume. This also means your ground wire may not be enough. What gauge is your ground wire and how long is it?
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From: CA
i have a 2000 gs300, i had a shop installed it, it was either a 2 or 4 guage wire either or is this ok? .. i dont know how long the wire is... this has nothing to do with a bad amp or sub right?
Lexus Champion
Joined: Aug 2004
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From: California
Originally Posted by saelee39
i have a 2000 gs300, i had a shop installed it, it was either a 2 or 4 guage wire either or is this ok? .. i dont know how long the wire is... this has nothing to do with a bad amp or sub right?
Since the shop installed it. You should go back and ask them to fix it. IF you start messing with the wires, they might blame you and not fix it.
Do you have a capacitor for it?
It could be from a weak battery, alternator amperage too low (time to upgrade to a higher output alt.)
Thread Starter
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From: CA
yes i have a 10 farad digital capacitor along with a new optima yellowtop battery. however, the alternator has never been change that i know of. do you recommend getting a new alternator?
Get rid of the cap. it's doing more harm than good.
10 farad is huge to be honest. All it's doing right now is putting more strain on your alternator than helping it. Energy doesn't come free.
Rarely do I see any external capacitors in a high-end install, and I've seen a good amount already.
Does your amp get really hot?
10 farad is huge to be honest. All it's doing right now is putting more strain on your alternator than helping it. Energy doesn't come free.
Rarely do I see any external capacitors in a high-end install, and I've seen a good amount already.
Does your amp get really hot?
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Lexus Champion
Joined: May 2005
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From: Ventura, Cali
go look at your amp and try to recreate the scenario. check to see if the thermal light or ohm light comes on when the bass cuts out. i had a similar problem in my sc, i got a techkits grounding kit and it stopped. my whole system was cutting out though because of too much current draw. check the ohms on your amp and check the ohms on your w7 to make sure that they're correct as well.
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it's never good from the beginning. physics will tell you most system do not need capacitors (external ones) unless you're having trouble with voltage being unstable that cannot be helped with a bigger alternator.
How is the amp mounted? Make sure the ground isn't more than 1 feet. I find the ground the most common problem because it's either too small and/or too short for the amp. It also needs to be grounded to the bare chassis. The surface will need to be sanded down. My friend had a similar problem in his s2000 when he got the amp installed.
How is the amp mounted? Make sure the ground isn't more than 1 feet. I find the ground the most common problem because it's either too small and/or too short for the amp. It also needs to be grounded to the bare chassis. The surface will need to be sanded down. My friend had a similar problem in his s2000 when he got the amp installed.
That should be part of your problem right there. Mount the amp so that the amp is resting on the floor. By mounting against the back seat, the amp will have insufficient cooling. The fins you see on the side of the amp are there to dissipate heat. Since heat rises, only one side of the amp is doing the cooling. Mounting the amp with the bottom parallel to the floor is the best cooling method.
This can be your problem, but if anything, try to remove the cap if possible. It's doing more harm than good.
This can be your problem, but if anything, try to remove the cap if possible. It's doing more harm than good.
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From: Ventura, Cali
for some reason JL amps tend to not like capacitors as well. i have heard a few people with success stories, but the Internal Power Regulator seems to not care for a capacitor in the mix.
What is exactly happening is that, when the amp draws current above a certain threshold (like when you turn up the volume), there is too much resistance in the power OR ground connections. This could be due to either poor ground connections, poor power connections, or too much resistance in the power leads, which you might get from installing too many fuseblocks, etc. The voltage drop caused by this causes the amp circuitry to shut down temporarily due to lack of voltage, until everything recovers.
It could also be that there isn't enough current-supplying capacity, but since you have an Optima Y/T, this is less likely.
It could also be that there isn't enough current-supplying capacity, but since you have an Optima Y/T, this is less likely.
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