Ok...need some audio help...
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From: Kaliforniastan
Due to faulty Mark Levinson Amp, Lexus has agreed to shell out $5000 worth of stereo equipment for my car in addition to installing the system for free by a Lexus Certified Shop and my car will carry the full factory warranty. I don't want to get into details about the deal right now (I'll do it once the system is in), but I need to get a list of what I want sometime soon.
What I'm interested in is to replace the factory speakers and the amp (I have the mark lev system). I don't want to go all crazy...I want it to look stock. Here's what I'm looking at...
1) Amp - McIntosh MC4000M (6 channel 1000W). Is this a good amp or is there some problems with this (or other McIntosh amps) Should I get the MEQ453 put in?
2) Speakers - McIntosh MSX486 (2-way Coaxial 6.5" w/1" tweeter) for the front. McIntosh MSS470 (2-way Component 5.25" w/1" tweeter) for the rear. McIntosh MS100 (10" sub). Do I need to make any sort of custom modifications I should have the installers do?
3) What about the center channel? Do I just skip it? I would have to buy a amp JUST for the center channel since the amp I want is only a 6 channel amp.
4) Optima Yellow
5) Audiobahn ACAP35X 3 Farad Capacitor Bank (I want to mount this just above my DVD Navigation drive in the trunk.)
I listen to mostly bass heavy music like Jungle and Trance/Techno...however, I also listen to Classical music, Jazz, etc....so clarity is also important. I want to MINIMALLY modify the car. I have been consdering adding some Dynamat to the doors and on the rear shelf (where the sub sits)
I know the 10" sub won't give me super bass but I figure it should be better than the ML sub. Or should I do some sort of box instead with 2x 12's? I am putting a rear STB on my GS so I can't take up that whole "shelf" space and I want as much trunk space possible...and spare access...
I was told that ALL functionallity of my navigation and audio controls (EQ, Balance, ASL, etc.) would be preserved (though I don't believe this)...and how about the audio cut-out when the Navigation system speaks...do you guys think they'll be able to preserve that?
I would like some Expert opinions on this especially if you're REALLY familiar with the Mark Lev system.
What I'm interested in is to replace the factory speakers and the amp (I have the mark lev system). I don't want to go all crazy...I want it to look stock. Here's what I'm looking at...
1) Amp - McIntosh MC4000M (6 channel 1000W). Is this a good amp or is there some problems with this (or other McIntosh amps) Should I get the MEQ453 put in?
2) Speakers - McIntosh MSX486 (2-way Coaxial 6.5" w/1" tweeter) for the front. McIntosh MSS470 (2-way Component 5.25" w/1" tweeter) for the rear. McIntosh MS100 (10" sub). Do I need to make any sort of custom modifications I should have the installers do?
3) What about the center channel? Do I just skip it? I would have to buy a amp JUST for the center channel since the amp I want is only a 6 channel amp.
4) Optima Yellow
5) Audiobahn ACAP35X 3 Farad Capacitor Bank (I want to mount this just above my DVD Navigation drive in the trunk.)
I listen to mostly bass heavy music like Jungle and Trance/Techno...however, I also listen to Classical music, Jazz, etc....so clarity is also important. I want to MINIMALLY modify the car. I have been consdering adding some Dynamat to the doors and on the rear shelf (where the sub sits)
I know the 10" sub won't give me super bass but I figure it should be better than the ML sub. Or should I do some sort of box instead with 2x 12's? I am putting a rear STB on my GS so I can't take up that whole "shelf" space and I want as much trunk space possible...and spare access...
I was told that ALL functionallity of my navigation and audio controls (EQ, Balance, ASL, etc.) would be preserved (though I don't believe this)...and how about the audio cut-out when the Navigation system speaks...do you guys think they'll be able to preserve that?
I would like some Expert opinions on this especially if you're REALLY familiar with the Mark Lev system.
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From: Illinois
[QUOTE]Originally posted by manaray
1) Amp - McIntosh MC4000M (6 channel 1000W). Is this a good amp or is there some problems with this (or other McIntosh amps) Should I get the MEQ453 put in?
The original run of MC4000M amps had power supply problems due to a 3rd party vendor. They switched vendors and have been problem free since '95. Excellent amp! The waiting list is a bit long and these sell for 4 thousand dollars. Otherwise, can't say enough good thing about this amp. It is a bit heavy though. The MEQ452 is only for two channel setups. Stick with the MEQ452 and don't forget the MEC459 controller.
2) Speakers - McIntosh MSX486 (2-way Coaxial 6.5" w/1" tweeter) for the front. McIntosh MSS470 (2-way Component 5.25" w/1" tweeter) for the rear. McIntosh MS100 (10" sub). Do I need to make any sort of custom modifications I should have the installers do?
Why not just go with two 6.5 inch sets? From what I remember, the rears on the ML system are 6.5 inch coaxials. They SHOULD just drop right in. Overall sound character of the Mc speakers are WARM. Not quite the thinness in treble as the MBQ but the aluminum dome does present some peaks to the system. Overall, a good speaker. Better yet, go with seperates for the front. You don't want the tweeter firing at your leg, but rather at the stock A pillar location. HINT...Go with the Dyns. You'll get a much wider soundstage and they're still the easiest to tune out.
3) What about the center channel? Do I just skip it? I would have to buy a amp JUST for the center channel since the amp I want is only a 6 channel amp.
I'd leave it alone. Just leave it there for looks.
I don't know of any 2.5 inch speakers out on the market, though you could take a modded MD140 Dyn midrange and mount it underneath somehow.
4) Optima Yellow
Good choice.
5) Audiobahn ACAP35X 3 Farad Capacitor Bank (I want to mount this just above my DVD Navigation drive in the trunk.)
Not really needed. As long as you have enough current or a strong enough amp, you won't need this. Only if a power supply is weak will you need a stifening cap. I still haven't heard of anybody picking out whether or not a cap was actually helping sound quality. SPL is a different matter though.
I was told that ALL functionallity of my navigation and audio controls (EQ, Balance, ASL, etc.) would be preserved (though I don't believe this)...and how about the audio cut-out when the Navigation system speaks...do you guys think they'll be able to preserve that?
I don't see why not. You still have the stock head unit and the add ons are all after the head unit chain.
I would like some Expert opinions on this especially if you're REALLY familiar with the Mark Lev system.
Who's Mark Lev?
Percy
1) Amp - McIntosh MC4000M (6 channel 1000W). Is this a good amp or is there some problems with this (or other McIntosh amps) Should I get the MEQ453 put in?
The original run of MC4000M amps had power supply problems due to a 3rd party vendor. They switched vendors and have been problem free since '95. Excellent amp! The waiting list is a bit long and these sell for 4 thousand dollars. Otherwise, can't say enough good thing about this amp. It is a bit heavy though. The MEQ452 is only for two channel setups. Stick with the MEQ452 and don't forget the MEC459 controller.
2) Speakers - McIntosh MSX486 (2-way Coaxial 6.5" w/1" tweeter) for the front. McIntosh MSS470 (2-way Component 5.25" w/1" tweeter) for the rear. McIntosh MS100 (10" sub). Do I need to make any sort of custom modifications I should have the installers do?
Why not just go with two 6.5 inch sets? From what I remember, the rears on the ML system are 6.5 inch coaxials. They SHOULD just drop right in. Overall sound character of the Mc speakers are WARM. Not quite the thinness in treble as the MBQ but the aluminum dome does present some peaks to the system. Overall, a good speaker. Better yet, go with seperates for the front. You don't want the tweeter firing at your leg, but rather at the stock A pillar location. HINT...Go with the Dyns. You'll get a much wider soundstage and they're still the easiest to tune out.
3) What about the center channel? Do I just skip it? I would have to buy a amp JUST for the center channel since the amp I want is only a 6 channel amp.
I'd leave it alone. Just leave it there for looks.
I don't know of any 2.5 inch speakers out on the market, though you could take a modded MD140 Dyn midrange and mount it underneath somehow.4) Optima Yellow
Good choice.
5) Audiobahn ACAP35X 3 Farad Capacitor Bank (I want to mount this just above my DVD Navigation drive in the trunk.)
Not really needed. As long as you have enough current or a strong enough amp, you won't need this. Only if a power supply is weak will you need a stifening cap. I still haven't heard of anybody picking out whether or not a cap was actually helping sound quality. SPL is a different matter though.
I was told that ALL functionallity of my navigation and audio controls (EQ, Balance, ASL, etc.) would be preserved (though I don't believe this)...and how about the audio cut-out when the Navigation system speaks...do you guys think they'll be able to preserve that?
I don't see why not. You still have the stock head unit and the add ons are all after the head unit chain.
I would like some Expert opinions on this especially if you're REALLY familiar with the Mark Lev system.
Who's Mark Lev?
Percy
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From: Kaliforniastan
Percy - Thanks for the info! I had a few more questions (of course!)
According to the www.marklevinsonlexus.com site, the GS430 comes with 2-way speakers in the rear...4" mids with 0.75" titanium tweeters...
1) As for the front door, I don't think McIntosh makes a 6.5" seperate (at least it's not listed on the website). Do they?
2) Will the 1" tweeter fit into the stock tweeter area as the stock tweets are 0.75"?
3) I have consider Dynaudio but I wanted to get an all "1 brand" setup if possible. I figured I could trust McIntosh to sell good quality speakers. Will I SERIOUSLY regret this?
4) How are McIntosh's subs? Will they work as a replacement for the stock ML speaker (free-air setup) or will I need to make a box (in which case, I might as well go with 2x 12", no?)
5) I was considering the Cap just to prevent a "light show" from happening on my dash when the music is turned up loud...do you still think it's unnecessary?
6) Do you think I should add some Dynamat to the car or is the car sufficiently sound proofed to the point where adding Dynamat would be just a exercise in dimishing returns? How about on the decklid? I already Dynamated the center seatbelt "protector cup"...would be help to Dynamat the whole bottom of the decklid?
Thanks a LOT for your help Percy!
According to the www.marklevinsonlexus.com site, the GS430 comes with 2-way speakers in the rear...4" mids with 0.75" titanium tweeters...
1) As for the front door, I don't think McIntosh makes a 6.5" seperate (at least it's not listed on the website). Do they?
2) Will the 1" tweeter fit into the stock tweeter area as the stock tweets are 0.75"?
3) I have consider Dynaudio but I wanted to get an all "1 brand" setup if possible. I figured I could trust McIntosh to sell good quality speakers. Will I SERIOUSLY regret this?
4) How are McIntosh's subs? Will they work as a replacement for the stock ML speaker (free-air setup) or will I need to make a box (in which case, I might as well go with 2x 12", no?)
5) I was considering the Cap just to prevent a "light show" from happening on my dash when the music is turned up loud...do you still think it's unnecessary?
6) Do you think I should add some Dynamat to the car or is the car sufficiently sound proofed to the point where adding Dynamat would be just a exercise in dimishing returns? How about on the decklid? I already Dynamated the center seatbelt "protector cup"...would be help to Dynamat the whole bottom of the decklid?
Thanks a LOT for your help Percy!
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From: Illinois
[QUOTE]Originally posted by manaray
[B]Percy - Thanks for the info! I had a few more questions (of course!)
According to the www.marklevinsonlexus.com site, the GS430 comes with 2-way speakers in the rear...4" mids with 0.75" titanium tweeters...
1) As for the front door, I don't think McIntosh makes a 6.5" seperate (at least it's not listed on the website). Do they?
They make them. It's called the MSS471 and it consists of 6.5 inch midwoofers and 1 inch tweeters. 120 watts maximum music power, 50 to 20khz frequency response. Big seperate crossover module/box. They went overkill on the box itself since it's made of finsihed metal.
2) Will the 1" tweeter fit into the stock tweeter area as the stock tweets are 0.75"?
I'm using 1.1 inch Dyn MD100's (modded) and they work fine!
3) I have consider Dynaudio but I wanted to get an all "1 brand" setup if possible. I figured I could trust McIntosh to sell good quality speakers. Will I SERIOUSLY regret this?
If possible, listen to the Mc's first and then listen to the Dyns. I've listened to both and I still took the Dyns. Actually, I've compared them side by side with ads 325im's and the ads speakers won out. ads next to Dyns...no contest. Dyns.
4) How are McIntosh's subs? Will they work as a replacement for the stock ML speaker (free-air setup) or will I need to make a box (in which case, I might as well go with 2x 12", no?)
The only thing that worries me is that they're a treated PAPER cone. Don't know how long they'll last in the auto enviroment.
5) I was considering the Cap just to prevent a "light show" from happening on my dash when the music is turned up loud...do you still think it's unnecessary?
IMO, yes...unnecessary. Now if you're cranking out some serious SPL (above 140db) then I'd recommend one, but as for sound quality, you'd never be able to tell, especially with the MC4000M and it's very tightly regulated power supply.
6) Do you think I should add some Dynamat to the car or is the car sufficiently sound proofed to the point where adding Dynamat would be just a exercise in dimishing returns? How about on the decklid? I already Dynamated the center seatbelt "protector cup"...would be help to Dynamat the whole bottom of the decklid?
If you've started the sound insulation, then by all means, go for it! Kinda tough to imaging a quieter Lexus, especially when it's so quiet to start off with. Cascade audio engineering makes some "peel and stick" sound insulation that I've had some good luck with. Works easier than the Dynamat.
As for the "one brand" decision, you'll find that most companies are only good at one or two items and the rest aren't up to those reference standards. That's why I mix and match.
Percy
[B]Percy - Thanks for the info! I had a few more questions (of course!)
According to the www.marklevinsonlexus.com site, the GS430 comes with 2-way speakers in the rear...4" mids with 0.75" titanium tweeters...
1) As for the front door, I don't think McIntosh makes a 6.5" seperate (at least it's not listed on the website). Do they?
They make them. It's called the MSS471 and it consists of 6.5 inch midwoofers and 1 inch tweeters. 120 watts maximum music power, 50 to 20khz frequency response. Big seperate crossover module/box. They went overkill on the box itself since it's made of finsihed metal.
2) Will the 1" tweeter fit into the stock tweeter area as the stock tweets are 0.75"?
I'm using 1.1 inch Dyn MD100's (modded) and they work fine!
3) I have consider Dynaudio but I wanted to get an all "1 brand" setup if possible. I figured I could trust McIntosh to sell good quality speakers. Will I SERIOUSLY regret this?
If possible, listen to the Mc's first and then listen to the Dyns. I've listened to both and I still took the Dyns. Actually, I've compared them side by side with ads 325im's and the ads speakers won out. ads next to Dyns...no contest. Dyns.
4) How are McIntosh's subs? Will they work as a replacement for the stock ML speaker (free-air setup) or will I need to make a box (in which case, I might as well go with 2x 12", no?)
The only thing that worries me is that they're a treated PAPER cone. Don't know how long they'll last in the auto enviroment.
5) I was considering the Cap just to prevent a "light show" from happening on my dash when the music is turned up loud...do you still think it's unnecessary?
IMO, yes...unnecessary. Now if you're cranking out some serious SPL (above 140db) then I'd recommend one, but as for sound quality, you'd never be able to tell, especially with the MC4000M and it's very tightly regulated power supply.
6) Do you think I should add some Dynamat to the car or is the car sufficiently sound proofed to the point where adding Dynamat would be just a exercise in dimishing returns? How about on the decklid? I already Dynamated the center seatbelt "protector cup"...would be help to Dynamat the whole bottom of the decklid?
If you've started the sound insulation, then by all means, go for it! Kinda tough to imaging a quieter Lexus, especially when it's so quiet to start off with. Cascade audio engineering makes some "peel and stick" sound insulation that I've had some good luck with. Works easier than the Dynamat.
As for the "one brand" decision, you'll find that most companies are only good at one or two items and the rest aren't up to those reference standards. That's why I mix and match.
Percy
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From: Kaliforniastan
Ok Percy, who's Subwoofer do you recommend, I want hard hitting low bass (a lot of the bass used in jungle/drum&bass is rolling bass or constant bass...) but not loose the freeair setup in the GS (10" sub)...any recommendations?
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Do you want the "one note drone" of many subs or do you want the ultimate in accuracy?
Accuracy...bar none, Velodyne DF-10SC. 10 inch sub with servo controller. NOTHING beats it in terms of sound quality.
Percy
Accuracy...bar none, Velodyne DF-10SC. 10 inch sub with servo controller. NOTHING beats it in terms of sound quality.
Percy
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From: Kaliforniastan
Velodyne...hmmm, I didn't see the DF-10SC (or ANY DF's) listed on their website...do you have a link for it? I'd like to read up on it...
How is the Velodyne for "boom"? When you say accurate, I think of "tight" bass...but most of the music I listen to has low loose bass...I'm not installing a Dolby 5.1 A/V system in my car Just a upgrade to the Mark Levinson system (well, I should say REPLACEMENT)...I like the bass that ML system delivers except that when you turn it up, it starts to distort (but I think that's more the door speakers than anything else).
Also, when I go to install it, should I bypass the "box" crossovers and just go direct to a electronic crossover (MEQ452)? Yes/No, any advantages to either setup?
I ask because I want to be able change the boost/cut for the the mids (in the doors) because some of the music I listen to has some "sloppy" bass that tends to distort the mids (or will the DynAudio's be able to handle it?)
Percy, thanks for all the recommendations!
How is the Velodyne for "boom"? When you say accurate, I think of "tight" bass...but most of the music I listen to has low loose bass...I'm not installing a Dolby 5.1 A/V system in my car
Just a upgrade to the Mark Levinson system (well, I should say REPLACEMENT)...I like the bass that ML system delivers except that when you turn it up, it starts to distort (but I think that's more the door speakers than anything else).Also, when I go to install it, should I bypass the "box" crossovers and just go direct to a electronic crossover (MEQ452)? Yes/No, any advantages to either setup?
I ask because I want to be able change the boost/cut for the the mids (in the doors) because some of the music I listen to has some "sloppy" bass that tends to distort the mids (or will the DynAudio's be able to handle it?)
Percy, thanks for all the recommendations!
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From: Illinois
Try Peter Lufrano's site. http://www.theautophile.com He should have more info there. It's kinda hard to describe, but there are virtually NO second order harmonic distortions or any "overhang" at all. It's what is on the recording EXACTLY. Most subs will advertise down to 20hz but will have the dreaded "one note drone" at around 80 or 60hz. With most of the other subs (not all) you can hear the harmonics at twice the intended frequency. Say it's a note at 60hz, you'll hear 120hz and 240hz out of the sub but (definitely not bass material) but with the Velodyne you hear ONLY the intended 60hz frequency.
They're pricey but if you're after ACCURACY you can't do any better than Velodyne.
The MEQ452 is a parametric eq only. It doesn't high pass/low pass like their MEN456 crossover. If you're using the MEQ452 then definitely keep the box crossovers!
As for the "sloppy bass", try listening to them in a Vel equipped system. You'll find that their intended bass note isn't really sloppy at all. Really wierd hearing the real deal. (But very cool!)
Percy
They're pricey but if you're after ACCURACY you can't do any better than Velodyne.
The MEQ452 is a parametric eq only. It doesn't high pass/low pass like their MEN456 crossover. If you're using the MEQ452 then definitely keep the box crossovers!
As for the "sloppy bass", try listening to them in a Vel equipped system. You'll find that their intended bass note isn't really sloppy at all. Really wierd hearing the real deal.
(But very cool!)Percy
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From: Kaliforniastan
Ok Percy, I'm sold...here's what I've got so far...
Speakers
Velodyne Sub DF-10SC (How much are these?)
DynAudio Mids and Tweets (which ones will "drop" into the GS w/the ML system?)
Amps and such
McIntosh MC4000M Amplifier
McIntosh MEQ452 Parametric EQ
McIntosh MEN456 Crossover
McIntosh MEC459 Control Unit
Optima Yellow Top
Should I put the MEQ452 into the MC4000M or the MEN456 or does it not matter? The MC400M says it has a built-in Electronic Crossover and a 3-band EQ...do you think that's good enough to negate the need for the MEQ452, MEN456, and the MEC459?
What wires do you recommend? Is there anything else I should get that I didn't list?
I just checked out the website you gave me (thanks!)...it doesn't list freeair as a "ideal" use for this sub, will it work ok in a freeair setup? And it also says it handles up to 300 watts...well the McIntosh amp give me 2 channels (each 300 watts) for the subs...how do I hook that up w/o blowing the sub?
Thanks a lot for your help Percy!
Speakers
Velodyne Sub DF-10SC (How much are these?)
DynAudio Mids and Tweets (which ones will "drop" into the GS w/the ML system?)
Amps and such
McIntosh MC4000M Amplifier
McIntosh MEQ452 Parametric EQ
McIntosh MEN456 Crossover
McIntosh MEC459 Control Unit
Optima Yellow Top
Should I put the MEQ452 into the MC4000M or the MEN456 or does it not matter? The MC400M says it has a built-in Electronic Crossover and a 3-band EQ...do you think that's good enough to negate the need for the MEQ452, MEN456, and the MEC459?
What wires do you recommend? Is there anything else I should get that I didn't list?
I just checked out the website you gave me (thanks!)...it doesn't list freeair as a "ideal" use for this sub, will it work ok in a freeair setup? And it also says it handles up to 300 watts...well the McIntosh amp give me 2 channels (each 300 watts) for the subs...how do I hook that up w/o blowing the sub?
Thanks a lot for your help Percy!
Last edited by Manaray; Jun 5, 2001 at 11:38 PM.
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From: Illinois
Originally posted by manaray
Ok Percy, I'm sold...here's what I've got so far...
Speakers
Velodyne Sub DF-10SC (How much are these?)
DynAudio Mids and Tweets (which ones will "drop" into the GS w/the ML system?)
**The DF-10SC will go for a grand. $$$$.$$! They're pricey, but they're the ultimate in accuracy. As for the Dyn mids and tweets, none will just "drop in". Custom baffles need to be made but are well worth the effort.
Amps and such
McIntosh MC4000M Amplifier
**Ahhh...the King of all amps! Did you get a time frame and cost? Most of the time these are on a waiting list.
McIntosh MEQ452 Parametric EQ
**Excellent module. ZERO NOISE from the module itself. Also, these are on a waiting list.
McIntosh MEN456 Crossover
**You'll get a bit of noise from this unit. That's why I had to mod mine out! Otherwise, one of the most flexible **units out there, bar none. Plus it will work with virtually any combo of head unit/amp out there!
McIntosh MEC459 Control Unit
**Good little control box.
Optima Yellow Top
**
Should I put the MEQ452 into the MC4000M or the MEN456 or does it not matter?
**Drop it in the MEN456. The controller has a switch between EQ and Crossover. Depending on how old the MC4000M amp is (whether it's been sitting around in a warehouse or not) you should also have a MEQ450 3 band installed. On the amp...check to make sure that the top has a metal trim around the glass. That's one of the ways to make sure you have a newer generation.
The MC400M says it has a built-in Electronic Crossover and a 3-band EQ...do you think that's good enough to negate the need for the MEQ452, MEN456, and the MEC459?
**NO!!!!
What wires do you recommend?
Now this is a loaded subject. Some people will claim that there is NO difference between cables, whether it would be a $10,000 pair or a 2.00 pair. Truth of the matter is that there is. You just have to listen INTO the music which most people can't seem to do. As for it being a matter of "hearing things", try this experiment. MIT cables used to have a model 550 (speaker wire) with a "filtering box". Hook these up and listen to them. Then compare them with something from Monster Cable (home) such as their M2.2S cable. A/B these two cables through a switcher if possible. There is ALOT of difference between these two cables. The MIT will literally sound muddy and congested, like if it had a cold. (If that's possible!) While the Monsters were significantly clearer. This test is ENTIRELY REPEATABLE and I've tried it with alot of MIT diehards at United Audio. They've switched over to Monster every time. Tried this with the salespeople there at UA also...verdict is that the entire store is now wired with Monster Cable.
I'm using the M950i and M1500 M series interconnects from Monster. Lots of bang for the buck and I couldn't afford the Transparent Audio Interconnects (still can't at over several grand a PAIR). The 13 foot M950i lengths go for around 300 a pair (interconnects) while the 1/2 meter M1500's go for that much. For a custom length of the M1500's the price would be up in the mid 500's or higher. These are home interconnects and IMO have better shielding and sound quality than any of their auto products.
For speaker wire I'm using their XPHP lineupe. Fairly thick cable and costs less than interconnects. You can pick up a small spool of 50 foot XPHP for about 100 dollars. I'm also using a larger version of the XPHP for the fronts and subs (since they carry the most current) and these are a bit more expensive. You may want to listen to Kimber cable. The name is there but the reviews have been mixed. If you have any ?'s about interconnects, run them by me. My BS detector is a highly precise instrument!
Is there anything else I should get that I didn't list?
You're pretty much set up! A SQ supercarrier Lite in the making! The only overkill thing that you could do right now is to have each one of the speakers with it's own amplification channel and modded electronics.
I just checked out the website you gave me (thanks!)...it doesn't list freeair as a "ideal" use for this sub, will it work ok in a freeair setup?
Yep. Selectable between free air and sealed. All done with a simple switch.
And it also says it handles up to 300 watts...well the McIntosh amp give me 2 channels (each 300 watts) for the subs...how do I hook that up w/o blowing the sub?
I'm only using one channel of the 300 watt side.
Thanks a lot for your help Percy!
Ok Percy, I'm sold...here's what I've got so far...
Speakers
Velodyne Sub DF-10SC (How much are these?)
DynAudio Mids and Tweets (which ones will "drop" into the GS w/the ML system?)
**The DF-10SC will go for a grand. $$$$.$$! They're pricey, but they're the ultimate in accuracy. As for the Dyn mids and tweets, none will just "drop in". Custom baffles need to be made but are well worth the effort.
Amps and such
McIntosh MC4000M Amplifier
**Ahhh...the King of all amps! Did you get a time frame and cost? Most of the time these are on a waiting list.
McIntosh MEQ452 Parametric EQ
**Excellent module. ZERO NOISE from the module itself. Also, these are on a waiting list.
McIntosh MEN456 Crossover
**You'll get a bit of noise from this unit. That's why I had to mod mine out! Otherwise, one of the most flexible **units out there, bar none. Plus it will work with virtually any combo of head unit/amp out there!
McIntosh MEC459 Control Unit
**Good little control box.
Optima Yellow Top
**
Should I put the MEQ452 into the MC4000M or the MEN456 or does it not matter?
**Drop it in the MEN456. The controller has a switch between EQ and Crossover. Depending on how old the MC4000M amp is (whether it's been sitting around in a warehouse or not) you should also have a MEQ450 3 band installed. On the amp...check to make sure that the top has a metal trim around the glass. That's one of the ways to make sure you have a newer generation.
The MC400M says it has a built-in Electronic Crossover and a 3-band EQ...do you think that's good enough to negate the need for the MEQ452, MEN456, and the MEC459?
**NO!!!!
What wires do you recommend?
Now this is a loaded subject. Some people will claim that there is NO difference between cables, whether it would be a $10,000 pair or a 2.00 pair. Truth of the matter is that there is. You just have to listen INTO the music which most people can't seem to do. As for it being a matter of "hearing things", try this experiment. MIT cables used to have a model 550 (speaker wire) with a "filtering box". Hook these up and listen to them. Then compare them with something from Monster Cable (home) such as their M2.2S cable. A/B these two cables through a switcher if possible. There is ALOT of difference between these two cables. The MIT will literally sound muddy and congested, like if it had a cold. (If that's possible!) While the Monsters were significantly clearer. This test is ENTIRELY REPEATABLE and I've tried it with alot of MIT diehards at United Audio. They've switched over to Monster every time. Tried this with the salespeople there at UA also...verdict is that the entire store is now wired with Monster Cable.
I'm using the M950i and M1500 M series interconnects from Monster. Lots of bang for the buck and I couldn't afford the Transparent Audio Interconnects (still can't at over several grand a PAIR). The 13 foot M950i lengths go for around 300 a pair (interconnects) while the 1/2 meter M1500's go for that much. For a custom length of the M1500's the price would be up in the mid 500's or higher. These are home interconnects and IMO have better shielding and sound quality than any of their auto products.
For speaker wire I'm using their XPHP lineupe. Fairly thick cable and costs less than interconnects. You can pick up a small spool of 50 foot XPHP for about 100 dollars. I'm also using a larger version of the XPHP for the fronts and subs (since they carry the most current) and these are a bit more expensive. You may want to listen to Kimber cable. The name is there but the reviews have been mixed. If you have any ?'s about interconnects, run them by me. My BS detector is a highly precise instrument!
Is there anything else I should get that I didn't list?
You're pretty much set up! A SQ supercarrier Lite in the making! The only overkill thing that you could do right now is to have each one of the speakers with it's own amplification channel and modded electronics.
I just checked out the website you gave me (thanks!)...it doesn't list freeair as a "ideal" use for this sub, will it work ok in a freeair setup?
Yep. Selectable between free air and sealed. All done with a simple switch.
And it also says it handles up to 300 watts...well the McIntosh amp give me 2 channels (each 300 watts) for the subs...how do I hook that up w/o blowing the sub?
I'm only using one channel of the 300 watt side.
Thanks a lot for your help Percy!
Percy
Last edited by Percy; Jun 6, 2001 at 08:36 AM.
Thread Starter
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Joined: Feb 2001
Posts: 6,879
Likes: 4
From: Kaliforniastan
I haven't checked stock with anyone yet...I'll let Lexus worry about that!
Anyways, I think I'll go with all monster cable (that's what I was planning on)
As for Dyns, that's kinda sucks that they don't "drop" in...I would like to have as little bracket mods as possible...what do you think about a/d/s? I haven't crossed out the Dyns, but if I can find a "drop in" solution with speakers that sound good (within 95% of the Dyns), I'd be willing to look...any recommendations?
Oh, I was listening to some bass heavy music today and man, my rear shelf rattles like crazy...is there something I can do besides dynamat the crap out of it to keep it from rattling?
Anyways, I think I'll go with all monster cable (that's what I was planning on)
As for Dyns, that's kinda sucks that they don't "drop" in...I would like to have as little bracket mods as possible...what do you think about a/d/s? I haven't crossed out the Dyns, but if I can find a "drop in" solution with speakers that sound good (within 95% of the Dyns), I'd be willing to look...any recommendations?
Oh, I was listening to some bass heavy music today and man, my rear shelf rattles like crazy...is there something I can do besides dynamat the crap out of it to keep it from rattling?
Moderator - Electronics Forum
Joined: Feb 2001
Posts: 3,985
Likes: 12
From: Illinois
[QUOTE]Originally posted by manaray
[B]I haven't checked stock with anyone yet...I'll let Lexus worry about that!
Anyways, I think I'll go with all monster cable (that's what I was planning on)
As for Dyns, that's kinda sucks that they don't "drop" in...I would like to have as little bracket mods as possible...what do you think about a/d/s? I haven't crossed out the Dyns, but if I can find a "drop in" solution with speakers that sound good (within 95% of the Dyns), I'd be willing to look...any recommendations?
**ads will be 90% of Dyns. There's nothing that will "drop in" other than MBQ or other lower grade speakers.
Oh, I was listening to some bass heavy music today and man, my rear shelf rattles like crazy...is there something I can do besides dynamat the crap out of it to keep it from rattling?
**open cell foam between the deck and the deck liner should help. Mean Gene has plenty of experience in this also!
Percy
[B]I haven't checked stock with anyone yet...I'll let Lexus worry about that!
Anyways, I think I'll go with all monster cable (that's what I was planning on)
As for Dyns, that's kinda sucks that they don't "drop" in...I would like to have as little bracket mods as possible...what do you think about a/d/s? I haven't crossed out the Dyns, but if I can find a "drop in" solution with speakers that sound good (within 95% of the Dyns), I'd be willing to look...any recommendations?
**ads will be 90% of Dyns. There's nothing that will "drop in" other than MBQ or other lower grade speakers.
Oh, I was listening to some bass heavy music today and man, my rear shelf rattles like crazy...is there something I can do besides dynamat the crap out of it to keep it from rattling?
**open cell foam between the deck and the deck liner should help. Mean Gene has plenty of experience in this also!
Percy
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