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Thank you Puertex. I have looked into that but I am still leery of wiring in it for fear of invalidating the car"s warranty (which Lexus service rep said could happen).
yea get the redline and a hardwire kit and a blendmojnt and you’ll be good no reason you can’t hardwire it you won’t good any warranty your just gonna tap into the wire not cutting anything
yea get the redline and a hardwire kit and a blendmojnt and you’ll be good no reason you can’t hardwire it you won’t good any warranty your just gonna tap into the wire not cutting anything
This goes back to the whole Magnuson–Moss Warranty Act debate that has raged online forever, rarely by someone with experience getting something turned down. If you have an electronics problem, completely unrelated, there are dealers/manufacturers who will use any possible reason to deny your claim, even if they’re wrong. (“The radar detector caused a low voltage situation/created a surge that this closed loop system is not designed for, and that blew up your infotainment.”) Most won’t. Yes, they have to prove that this was the problem if you take them to court, but are you going to do that over a few thousand bucks? Ten thousand?
People need to be comfortable with their dealer and with the likelihood of a warranty issue caused by any specific aftermarket components. (That includes floor mats, though I don’t know anyone concerned by them. It’s just one end of the spectrum. Doing an ECU reflash is probably the other end.) Don’t listen to anyone saying “don’t worry about your warranty” unless they’re going to pay if you have an issue. It’s fair to say “I’d be shocked if you had an issue,” but I’ve seen way too many odd things happen at dealerships to tell someone that ANY modification that isn’t explicitly approved by a manufacturer couldn’t possibly be an issue. A dealer who wants to make it a problem, or someone from corporate, can make it so. You then need to decide if you’re paying for the fix, or calling an attorney. I’ve been there on a, admittedly poorer built, Range Rover with a five figure bill. If you’re terrified of warranty claims, plug it in, and take it out at every dealer visit. They could even argue that using it in the lighter plug isn’t an intended use. (Pretty unlikely.)
Do I think that you’ll have an issue? If everything has a proper fuse on it, there are no short circuits, and the detector is from a quality manufacturer, I think it’s unlikely. Would I want to have anything done to modify the wiring if some design flaw in a completely different part of the car causes a leak and my whole electrical system gets fried? I … would not. Do what you feel comfortable with as “this guy on the internet told me I’m OK” isn’t a persuasive point.
Fair, but for me I am a 2018 with no extended warranty. It's all on my dime. =-).
That’s when I flashed a car and added modified turbos. Like you said, it was on my dime, and I (wisely) gambled that the added power wouldn’t hurt the powertrain.
I bought one of these during black friday for $33 (12-pin), it was super easy to install; removing the housing was much easier on my LC than my RX. comes with different power cables (USB-A, USB-C, etc...), for dashcams or radar detectors.
the other option is dongar, but looks like its only USB-A powered.
resurrection of old thread. Went to wire my 2026 and struggling a little. I think they have changed the wiring harness. This is what I see:
Using my multimeter, I find the white wire (bottom row, 3rd from left) is grounded (gets me a beep on Ohm). And blue (upper far right) gets me 12V on Accessory. However, I get nothing when I plug everything in! Briefly my Max 360c Mk2 would turn on, them immediately off a few times. Now nothing. Still works with cigarette lighter
Would love to use the taps kit that I bought with my blend mount. Figured it on my previous car. Perhaps I need to go that route if I can’t figure this.
I sorted this out. For anyone with wiring harness as pictured (mine is a 2026 Bespoke convertible) - white is ground (bottom row, 3rd from left), black is 12V with accessory position (bottom row, far right). Radar detector works perfectly now and installation is extremely clean. Blue (top row, far right) is also 12V with accessory, but for some reason my detector just wouldn't work with it.