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my car has 20,000 miles. daily it. i took it for emission test today and to my surprise, it fails.
the dude said he can't find nothing wrong. On the sheet it says OBD FAIL. He asked recent change battery. I said NO. He said I should drive more and take it back in a week. I told him this makes zero sense since I drive it daily.
I already made an appointment, any of you experiencing this? Any suggestion is welcome.
How old is your starting battery? Do you have a way to measure the battery voltage during startup? Any loose or suspect connections on battery cables? If drops in volts during startup too much for too long, it may impact the OBDII emissions "I/M readiness codes." That is also why he asked if you changed the battery. If it loses 12v, it resets all the I/M readiness codes to say "Not Ready." This also supports why he said to go drive it. If you drive it, the sensors begin collecting information again but it can take a number of miles. . .even up to 100'ish depending how varied your driving is. (Low speed, high speed, duration of each, acceleration, deacceleration rates, etc.) The ECU has a number of parameters that have to be fulfilled in the drive cycle to have all sensors flipped to ready. I think you are allowed like one sensor not ready at most in most states. I have been successful in past finding the drive cycle parameters for another car when I had to do this after I replaced the battery on a car I never drive.
just came back from advance auto, they measured my battery and it say:
Rated: 765 CCA
Measured: 874 CCA
Voltage: 12.43 V Reserve Health
Good The battery shows good cranking performance. Test the battery again at next service opportunity.
went to a different shop who was more helpful, rather than telling me to drive some more.
the mechanic in there said it's must be a bad fuse. and he nailed it on the head.
he connects one of his scantool to my car obd and gets ZERO reading. unfortunately i did not have a manual book and we could not located which fuse is the OBD fuse.
found the issue. took it to a buddy's house.
fuse were okay.
someone (previous owner or the porsche of ocala fl dealership i bought from) put a tracking device in the area of obd area.
they did not connect the obd power.
we took out the tracking device.
obd has power now.
Glad you resolved this...I was going to suggest obd fuse/wiring. Was laughing pretty hard at the other "help" you were getting. Also, you may want to buy a cheap OBD dongle and you can always test emissions readiness with your phone through various apps
thanks. i was devastated when my lc fails lol
NOW, my buddy connect to obd and he said it's ready.
glad we took out the tracking device. must be from the dealer since i purchased it out of state.
what's odd is that i paid off the dealer from the getgo.
it's a big legit dealer too...porsche / bmw of ocala in florida.
Glad you resolved this...I was going to suggest obd fuse/wiring. Was laughing pretty hard at the other "help" you were getting. Also, you may want to buy a cheap OBD dongle and you can always test emissions readiness with your phone through various apps
If you are so smart that you were "laughing pretty hard at the other help you were getting," why the heck didn't you give any help at all? You thought you knew better, but never bothered to post a single suggestion? Only when it was solved by the OP, then, and only then, you post that you were going to suggest something. . . Not sure what you were laughing at, the two most common root causes that result in this were posted as things to look in to.