Dashcam Installation Help
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The Dongar is hard to fit though. I crammed everything up into the headliner above the mirror and was eventually able to get it, but it's not the prettiest. You can see the red and black wires here which feed back into stock wire harness connector, all of that is tucked into the headliner but these two wires are exposed. I cannot see them from my driving position or from the front of the vehicle looking in, so I don't care. I do see the power cord stretched across though, so as I mentioned not 100% clean install but it's good enough for me and is easily reversible/removable or would be easy to switch dash cams if I wanted to without having to re-run any wiring.
As for cable routing, I just followed the simplest path highlighted in red in the below photos. The blue rectangle is the Dongar unit pictured above and the blue line is the main power USB cable from Dongar to Dash cam. Red is the rear-cam cable routed. Initially from the camera it is tucked into the recess between the two black boxes mounted on the windshield, from there I tucked it into the headliner and over to the passenger door.
Follow along the headliner to the A-pillar. I dropped the A-pillar when doing it to make it easy, but if you have small hands you may not have to drop it entirely. At the top of the A-pillar is a white retaining clip, you have to remove that clip at the base with needle nose pliers in order to drop the entire pillar (squeeze the two tabs on the base of the white clip with the pliers and pull it out. When re-assembling, insert the white clip into the receptacle on the A-pillar then attach the A-pillar to the car, do not put the clip back on the car then try to line the A-pillar up to it or you might damage the clip). I routed the cable BEHIND the airbag in the A-pillar, just fished it through. After that, just keep tucking the cable in between the rubber door seal and the headliner all the way along there towards the back.
When you get to the B-pillar here at the passenger door, just continue along the seam in the headliner and tuck the cable into it. Keep tucking into the headliner all the way along the back, following the natural seams of the headliner until you reach the back. The problem I ran into was that the cable is way too long for the car, so there was TONS of slack I had to creatively tuck away. The rear headliner doesn't have an easy way to tuck the extra cable without it spilling back out, but I was able to double the cable on itself several times and zip tie it together then cram it in back there so it isn't spilling back out on itself.
It took me maybe 40 minutes to route the cable. Use a pry tool to help tuck the cable nicely into the headliner. The most annoying part was the A-pillar (until I figured out to disconnect the retaining clip and drop the whole pillar) and then the rear-area with the excess cable.
I was able to tuck the wire behind the A pillars down to the fuse panel and route to my glove box for now. I think I have a route to the back camera but I have to work on it.
At this point, I will order the hardwire kit from Rove and wire it to the fuse box under the glove box.
Once the wires are in place, I can look for other cameras but I’m happy with the quality from Rove. For now.
the hardwire kit will come Friday.
I routed the wire for the rear camera. There’s so much slack from the extra wire that I’m not sure where to tuck it. I will order shorter USB-C cable if I can’t tuck the extra wires. I’m just concerned the extra wire might affect the side curtain airbag from the A pillar. I pulled out the A pillar trim and I’m not sure how to put it back now.
I ordered the service manual for more help. Good to have anyways.
the hardwire kit will come Friday.
I routed the wire for the rear camera. There’s so much slack from the extra wire that I’m not sure where to tuck it. I will order shorter USB-C cable if I can’t tuck the extra wires. I’m just concerned the extra wire might affect the side curtain airbag from the A pillar. I pulled out the A pillar trim and I’m not sure how to put it back now.
I ordered the service manual for more help. Good to have anyways.
Did you drop the entire a-pillar? It is annoying to seat it back properly. Start with the corner at the windshield and push down and in simultaneously. When it seats properly you'll know because everything will line up. Once lined up, then align the red push pin near the middle and snap that on, then finally the white retaining clip at the top.
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Did you drop the entire a-pillar? It is annoying to seat it back properly. Start with the corner at the windshield and push down and in simultaneously. When it seats properly you'll know because everything will line up. Once lined up, then align the red push pin near the middle and snap that on, then finally the white retaining clip at the top.
Dinner time with 2 young kids. lol. I left the job and will come back when every one is sleeping.
It’s so dark inside this black interior car. Even with a flash light and garage doors opened, it freaking dark. I will never want to do anything in the back with this car. I think I twisted my inside and especially my neck working the wires in the back.
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Dinner time with 2 young kids. lol. I left the job and will come back when every one is sleeping.
It’s so dark inside this black interior car. Even with a flash light and garage doors opened, it freaking dark. I will never want to do anything in the back with this car. I think I twisted my inside and especially my neck working the wires in the back.
I'm finding it hard to explain but I also remember that seating it back took some finesse, but eventually it clicked in and everything aligned. Patience is probably key, just remember it came out so it must go back.
I remember I did mine in the full sun for that reason. It was hot and sweaty but I was able to see lol
The tip on the white clip on the A pillar is key. Thanks @np20412
From the passenger side. From the driver side, the camera is barely visible.
I like how the rear camera is mounted flushed to the glass.
30$ for hardwire kit
20$ for circular polarizer(I feel this is the biggest rip off)
under $200 for this project is not bad at all. I’ll post some clips from it later.
Car on the other side stopped and flashing her high beams. My natural reaction is to focus on the car with the flashing light and not the sides of the road. As I drove by, the lady put up her hands like I wanted to run over the turkeys with my sports car.
Here are the fuses I tapped. Again, this is using the fuse box on the passenger side under the glove box. Pictured above.
-Radio no.1. This is power straight from the battery and will provide power even when the car is turned off. Make sure you have some kind of voltage cut off to avoid completely draining the battery and leaving you stranded. I debated whether to use this but the Rove hardwire kit has a voltage cut off and I set it to 12.0V.
-Acc P. No.1. This is for power when the car is turned on.








