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Does anyone know what the differences are between the following radiator part numbers:
16400-38H10 16400-38210
16400-38211
We are seeing more and more gearbox failures in the UK and these are being caused by the breakdown of the radiator. Trying to see if the later part numbers are actually for radiators after lexus realised there is an issue and corrected it?
16400-38210 is superceded by 16400-38H10 and is specified for production 07/08 through 03/2011. Production 04/2011 and after uses 16400-38211. The later model unit appears to be about $100 cheaper than the earlier unit. No idea why though.
16400-38210 is superceded by 16400-38H10 and is specified for production 07/08 through 03/2011. Production 04/2011 and after uses 16400-38211. The later model unit appears to be about $100 cheaper than the earlier unit. No idea why though.
I've noticed that in pricing as well. Do you think it may be due to a more efficient build in materials and design or possibly short cuts in design and materials?
16400-38210 is superceded by 16400-38H10 and is specified for production 07/08 through 03/2011. Production 04/2011 and after uses 16400-38211. The later model unit appears to be about $100 cheaper than the earlier unit. No idea why though.
interesting. curiously enough, when i replaced the radiator in my 2012 car, i ordered it from the dealer and it did not come with a new coolant reservoir like most people here were talking about. that may be why ... i didn't realize the earlier cars called for a different part #.
Is the one that ended up on MY08... When the top seal blew out on my original back in 2015..
Mind you my original was only 7 years and had 100k miles..
At the time they were on back order as they transitioned to the new part number, updated design..
The small fragile coolant bottle outlet pipe on the top was cracking right off when the techs began the process of the cooling fan service campaign... Where all they did was add new (same screws) with loctite.
The new radiator came with the new coolant bottle and the two inlet & outlet hoses.. The top coolant line outlet pipe was larger and thicker.. Some of you got lucky and got the new radiator as part of the cooling fan campaign..
Those of you who want to replace the cooling fan motor screws with bolts and locking nuts - see here:
Hey Joe, you think this new rad sorts out the issue of the internal breakdown causing the coolant to enter the gearbox?
I can't be too sure of that...
What year model are the ones in UK with reported failures..??
We can then see what part number is failing.. Also we assume the SLL radiator fluid in that market is the same we are using here ??
(NO add / NO mix water )
Aside from the obvious age of over 10 years old, have they been able to determine if the lower tanks or seals are failing ?? Also how many are we talking about in that region ?
When my Top seal blew I almost order the new gasket and was going to have it resealed by a shop that specials in this work.. After adding in the parts & labor to just reseal the tanks - I was at the cost of the new radiator and DIY install.
Main theory is from dealers that it is the internal breakdown causing it. But it seems its one of those faults that seems to just happen without much visual warning from what people have been saying.
Re numbers, in the UK there are not many ISFs so won't be as a big issue numbers wise as the US.
I don't have the TIS printout anymore but when i replaced mine, i remember it was self explanatory once you remove the plastic cover and upper tie bar. The factory procedure called for some unnecessary extra steps that i don't remember but all in all it's a very simple job.
Radiator Differences
