Hi all,

I installed the FIGS 90 LCA bushings over the weekend. Install wasn't so bad after getting the first side done. It really helped to loosen up the lower shock bolt to get a little extra leverage when removing the old LCA bushing.

My review - I have 101,000 miles on my 2010 ISF and this was MUCH needed. Not only does the car drive better, it doesn't feel like its going to fall apart when hitting bumps and ridges in the road. Most of the noises have gone away and even some of the vibrations I had on the highway are now gone. I can tell when braking the car doesn't shift around like it used to especially over uneven pavement. The steering feels tighter (not heavier) and when you go over bumps it doesn't want to knock the steering all over the place. Someone else mentioned it feels almost BMW-like which I can agree. For me the drive difference is night and day. I feel a little more road in the seat of my pants, but no extra noise or harshness.

If you guys haven't done this mod, this is probably the best $300 you'll spend on your car especially for you guys in the higher mileage.

 

Any reason why you didn't do the RR racing bushings?

 

 

Other than the fact that FIGS looks prettier? No real reason - it just seems FIGS had these around longer and I just decided to buy these over RR Racing. I'm sure RR Racing makes just as much of a superior product as FIGS, they both do what they intend to do.

 

I agree with your review. I had the exact same reaction and symptoms.

 

Just ordered mine last week, can't wait to see the difference! Spent quite a lot of time comparing them to the USRS, but ride quality has always been my priority so I took a chance with these.
My 08 has 79k miles on BC+swift setup 14/10, so I also ordered some bump stop spacers hoping to help the softer spring rather than immediately upgrading to different coils/spring rate. We'll see how it goes.

 

 

Been about two weeks and a few hundred miles now. Can confirm I love the car that much more! It was much flatter this time around at autocross and on the highway the car seems more planted and less tendency to swerve under braking or when hitting bumps. Also not sure if it's with the combination of the bump stop spacers, but every time I hit anything now the sound and harshness feels more under the car as if the chassis is absorbing it, rather than the whole body of the car and my seat(and butt!) included. Definitely made for a comfier and well composed ride. Great mod and no additional harshness either.

 

I just got the bushings and need to do this. Does anyone have the torque specs for the bolts?

 

It's all here:

https://www.clublexus.com/forums/sus...ml#post5449816

 

I also have the FIGS bushings and concur with everything that's been said here.

 

 

I have installed the Figs 90D on my 2010 2 months ago with KW coilovers and after over 2000 miles I can confirm that it does greatly improve the steering feeling and the handling of the car on bumps. I went for Figs because my car is for road use and I felt they were more suited than the track oriented RR ones. When the IS-F will replace my current track car I would probably switch them for RR but currently they are just perfect for my needs.

 

That was my reasoning as well. Both companies are fantastic, though, and produce amazing parts for our cars.

 

I installed the Figs Front LCA bushing #2 90D kit last weekend.

Installation was done on jackstands in my garage. Torque specs per Lobuxracer’s link above.
Some notes:
1) Front wheels should be removed. Allows application of leverage to LCA to nudge it down and aid removal/installation of bushing brackets.
2) I did not loosen the lower shock bolt to get extra leverage like OP @PatrickISF mentions in his review above. Would have tried this if needed. Used a pry bar between the subframe and LCA and removed/replaced bracket without much trouble. (There is a right way and wrong way to use the pry bar here – if the sharp end is gouging the soft Aluminum subframe, that's the wrong way…flip the bar over. :-)
3) I found this how-to video to be the most helpful. 4) Impact/pneumatic tools are helpful for bolt removal, especially the 150ft-lb monster that anchors into the subframe. It would probably be easier to use hand tools on a lift, but on jackstands with a floor jack having only an 18in lift height, the leverage is all wrong. Torquing everything up to spec is a good enough oblique core workout, no need to do it twice each side.
5) A 0.5in drive swivel adapter is helpful for accessing the bushing nut (83ft-lb rating). Again, this might be easier on a lift, but on my back on the garage floor, the angles were all wrong without an adapter.
6) I removed the entire transmission aero cover, rather than disconnecting just the 4x 10mm bolts at the front end and dealing with it hitting me in the face repeatedly. In doing so I realized that one of the two-piece plastic nut/washer-type clips on the rear end was already broken. Added this to list of obscure OEM clips needing replacement…
7) The 17mm bolt on the inboard side of the bushing bracket threads into a nut which lies on top of the subframe. A 17mm box end wrench is necessary to hold the nut during removal and replacement of this bolt. Because of the angle, lack of line-of-sight, and torque rating (63lb-ft), I would not trust a 12pt wrench here, too easy to round it off. Recommend 6pt.
8) I cleaned some minor corrosion off of bolt threads using a wire brush wheel on my cordless drill.

Key tools, links to ones I used:
a) Impact-rated universal joint socket b) Pry c) Impact d) Any 6-point 17mm box end wrench.


Figs and worn OEM bushings, nut side up.


Figs and worn OEM bushings, bevel side up.


Right-side LCA, bushing removed.


Left-side Figs bushing installed, with transmission aero cover re-installed, shown at lower right.

Post-installation impressions from a test drive on my “NVH reference route” with broken pavement and sealant strips, mostly straight but with some curves and 55mph speed limit. Sharp impacts are heard more than before, but not felt. Absolutely no hint of the classic NVH faux paus (rear view mirror vibrating, lowered window rattling in frame, dash buzzing, etc). Damping seems strangely better. Turn-in response is crisper, more confident, less sloshy. Steering effort has not changed, but wheel feedback has, there is more road texture in the steering wheel, in a pleasant and well-damped sort of way. Composure under braking on broken pavement is much better.

Extremely pleased with ease of installation and the results!