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Is anyone with SmartTap trying the Diode Dynamics LED turn signal bulbs, the 7440 replacements for front and rear? The 510 lumen XP80's are $90/pair, but there is something about the low-impedance cycle time that catches the eye and makes a signal get noticed, even in daytime. With all the distracted (irresponsible) drivers flooding the streets these days, I can almost justify the expense. Interested to hear from someone with experience...
Is anyone with SmartTap trying the Diode Dynamics LED turn signal bulbs, the 7440 replacements for front and rear? The 510 lumen XP80's are $90/pair, but there is something about the low-impedance cycle time that catches the eye and makes a signal get noticed, even in daytime. With all the distracted (irresponsible) drivers flooding the streets these days, I can almost justify the expense. Interested to hear from someone with experience...
Can't speak to the XPS80 but I did run the next model down and they were absolutely awful. Very low visibility in broad daylight and the light projection was more forward facing than anything, not enough to illuminate road signs like the OE incandescent bulbs did; just a terrible product all-around. I sold them used and the buyer echoed the same feedback in a different car. I opted for the VLEDS HIGH VISIBILITY AMBER 50 instead, which are superior to that particular DD bulb. I like them so much, I run them in both my F and Subie FXT. They have perfect visibility in broad daylight (confirmed by how pedestrians and other drivers react vs. DD bulbs), the light scatters very well lighting up road signs, and they are cheaper than DD bulbs. IMO the shorter design is better for a turn signal application than anything with a projector. I am not affiliated with either company, for the record.
Can't speak to the XPS80 but I did run the next model down and they were absolutely awful. Very low visibility in broad daylight and the light projection was more forward facing than anything, not enough to illuminate road signs like the OE incandescent bulbs did; just a terrible product all-around. I sold them used and the buyer echoed the same feedback in a different car. I opted for the VLEDS HIGH VISIBILITY AMBER 50 instead, which are superior to that particular DD bulb. I like them so much, I run them in both my F and Subie FXT. They have perfect visibility in broad daylight (confirmed by how pedestrians and other drivers react vs. DD bulbs), the light scatters very well lighting up road signs, and they are cheaper than DD bulbs. IMO the shorter design is better for a turn signal application than anything with a projector. I am not affiliated with either company, for the record.
DD left; VLEDS right.
DD left; VLEDS right.
Thanks for helpful photos. How long have the VLEDS lasted so far?
Anyone try the VLEDS V6 Triton amber bulbs for the front or rear turn signal/hazard flashers? How is the fitment? 700 lumens is a lot of light if lensed correctly.
Installed the Diode Dynamics SmartTap CF18 Relay last weekend.
A few notes on the installation steps, some obvious, some maybe not:
1) Slide driver's seat all the way back.
2) Remove what Chilton calls the "No. 1 Instrument Panel Under Cover Sub-Assembly" by taking out two small Philips-head screws at inboard and outboard ends, then depressing two clips towards the center. Chilton's has a great view of these clips which helps with location and removal.
3) Once the "No. 1" panel drops down, it will be held by tension from three harnesses. One goes to the OBD2 port, one to a port with a cover labeled "Map" (for Nav?), and one to the footwell's LED light. The first two are freed from the panel by depressed opposing tabs on the outside of the panel and pushing inwards. The third is freed by opening up a pair of plastic tabs on the inside. Once freed from the harnesses, the panel can be removed.
4) I tried removing what Chilton's calls the "Driver Side Kneed Airbag Assembly", but could not figure it out. I removed two bolts and two nuts, but Chilton's shows four bolts. Regardless, removal of this assembly is not necessary for access to the relay.
5) Assume the position. Before diving in, place a small flat-tip screwdriver, needle-nose pliers, and a small work light within arm's reach. Taking too large of a work light will guarantee frustration. A Milwaukee 2112-21 or similar is perfect for this job. Crawl in and wiggle on your back towards the accelerator pedal. When your left ear is located against the transmission tunnel and your left cheek is a couple inches below the HVAC duct, you are in the right place. Look up and spot the relay. It will look like this:
6) Confirm it is the correct relay by reaching up to turn on the hazard lights with you right hand, then touching the relay housing. You should feel it cycling.
7) Remove the harness from the relay by depressing the tab with a flat-tip screwdriver.
8) Remove the relay from the metal fitting by depressing the clip "feet" using needle-nose pliers. Here is a close-up image which shows the clip (at left).
9) Remove clip from relay by depressing tab underneath the slot, then snap into place on the new relay.
Comparison of relays.
First impressions:
a) SmartTap is noticeably louder than the factory relay.
b) Tap-to-turn is a really nice modern touch.
c) Strobing hazards with halogen bulbs looks lame. :-(
Not necessary depends on your size. Removing the knee airbag made getting to this thing stupid easy for me, but I have XL sized hands. I would have fought hard to do this task without removing the airbag.
Curious...if it convenience function of tap to turn to get it to repeat three times then stop is handled by this relay would another vehicle's relay that does it stock work? ie from another toyota?
Not necessary depends on your size. Removing the knee airbag made getting to this thing stupid easy for me, but I have XL sized hands. I would have fought hard to do this task without removing the airbag.
I agree, and would have removed it but could not figure it out and did not want to force it. My hands are size L, and I kept getting caught in this wrist-lock position with my right elbow pinned against the side of the footwell and my right wrist not able to move. All the more pleasant with a work light hitting me in the face (before I brilliantly selected the small LED :-).
Noticed that the Diode Dynamics SmartTap CF18 relay is selling for $20 now. It was ~3x more expensive a couple years ago. LED Flasher for 2008-2013 Lexus IS F (diodedynamics.com) EDIT: This link erroneously shows "Smart Tap" logo in four images. It appears to be the basic CF18 relay, not the Smart Tap. Sorry for the confusion.
I think their listing is wrong. That looks like the basic CF18 flasher without any customization or special functions, not the SmartTap. It works, but caused the first flash to hang on my Subaru.
I think their listing is wrong. That looks like the basic CF18 flasher without any customization or special functions, not the SmartTap. It works, but caused the first flash to hang on my Subaru.
I agree. Four photos on the basic CF18 flasher listing erroneously show the "Smart Tap" logo.
Here is the real Smart Tap link, price is $90: SmartTap CF18 LED Flasher Module (diodedynamics.com)
Sorry for unnecessary confusion.
