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That's my biggest gripe with these tunes and the car being as smart as it is. You're constantly at the mercy of the ecu giving you optimal power and you need a damn laptop+software to even see where you are in that range of most efficient power. I think if I was going to do it again I'd have got headers before I considered a tune. I/H/E is the only consistent way to make power all the time.
^^^^^Not necessarily, check out this link on the Royal Purple Octane Boost. I love their products and they always seem to put out a quality product with their name on it.
I think it's only like $11 or something close to that last time I checked....
If you add one 16 oz can of Toluene to 1 gallon of 91 octane you end up with about a 94 octane mixture. If your gas is $3 gallon that means you'd be paying $14 gallon for 94.3 octane rating with the RP additive (if it's toluene).
I chose Toluene for the same reason they did when it was used in F1 racing engines with considerably higher compression ratios than normal cars. It has an octane rating of about 121 at its most distilled level. I know of only one fuel with a higher octane rating and that's hydrogen.
Please feel free to correct me though if my math is wrong.
That's my biggest gripe with these tunes and the car being as smart as it is. You're constantly at the mercy of the ecu giving you optimal power and you need a damn laptop+software to even see where you are in that range of most efficient power. I think if I was going to do it again I'd have got headers before I considered a tune. I/H/E is the only consistent way to make power all the time.
Your problem rest solely with the car being as smart as it is. Stock cars along with modified cars are still subject to the same issues. If you sit at a stoplight and your intake gets heat soaked while its 100F outside your car whether it's stock or not is going to be pullin timing. But that's a good thing because no one likes to blow up a $20k motor because you got a little risky and decided to push a/f ratios and exhaust gas temps.
That's what it should do and more than likely any scenario that causes knock in your motor isn't going to instantly disappear. If it's fuel related it will be for the entire tank of fuel. It's in IAT related it will be that way until the sun goes down. If it's related to heat soak then you will need to run your car at higher engine speeds to first remove the heat from the intake piping and then bring in fresh air at the more equalized temp.
Not to digress guys but I can't seem to find kclv in techstream. I'd assume it would be under ECU as knock correction is listed but I can't find it. Pointers?
That's my biggest gripe with these tunes and the car being as smart as it is. You're constantly at the mercy of the ecu giving you optimal power and you need a damn laptop+software to even see where you are in that range of most efficient power. I think if I was going to do it again I'd have got headers before I considered a tune. I/H/E is the only consistent way to make power all the time.
Our car is susceptible to these variations no matter your mod state. High IATs are going to impact timing and power with headers just like with the tune. The tune has just brought about more people data logging and we are all learning the impact these things have now.
Through extensive logging I have found that KCLV does indeed drop if you beat on your car when it is heat soaked. I've gone from 23.6 to 19.1 just driving around town with a few hits leaving red lights. This, however, has nothing to do with the tune it's just the nature of the car. I have also found that I can easily raise the KCLV back up with a 6th gear pull once I'm back in good air. No ECU reset is required, just do a few 6th gear pulls and your KCLV will be as high as it's going to get given your gas quality and engine conditions.
I recently had plugs changed and the shop disconnected the battery so my KCLV went back to 15. I was able to go from 15 to 22+ in a single 6th gear pull with regular 93 octane (Shell).
Another little trick is you don't have to go to redline with these pulls. Just get the RPM up over 3K so you are working on the right KCLV value and do several small pulls which is more convenient (and safe). I'll run up to 4K or so, slow back down and repeat a few times. This helps ensure I'm in the optimal zone as much as possible. After logging for a while I'm comfortable enough now that I don't even hook techstream up. I Just go through the process occasionally and when I check it it has always been good.
Not to digress guys but I can't seem to find kclv in techstream. I'd assume it would be under ECU as knock correction is listed but I can't find it. Pointers?
Once you are in the Engine ECU go to Data List on the left menu. There is a drop down box at the bottom of the data table. Select "Timing Logs" there and it will bring up about 10 or so values with Knock Correction and KCLV along with RPM, IAT, Timing, etc...
Once you are in the Engine ECU go to Data List on the left menu. There is a drop down box at the bottom of the data table. Select "Timing Logs" there and it will bring up about 10 or so values with Knock Correction and KCLV along with RPM, IAT, Timing, etc...
Are all of you guys buying the 2 day subscription or two month subscription to Techstream? Does it have to be the Professional version in order to see the KCLV? Anyone want to PM me if they have alternate ways of getting a subscription to Techstream?
Are all of you guys buying the 2 day subscription or two month subscription to Techstream? Does it have to be the Professional version in order to see the KCLV? Anyone want to PM me if they have alternate ways of getting a subscription to Techstream?
I'm using ebay v.10.xx. I hope that'll give me access to kclv. Couldn't find it yesterday but I'll try Meanstreak's method tonight.