Thank you for the suggestion. I just added some octane booster so if that doesn't work I'll try cleaning the intake manifold. Last step is the valve lash inspection which I think I need to do regardless.

 

It seems like the octane booster worked. I reset the ecu and went for a ride and did multiple 7&8th gear pulls as well as 3-6th gear pulls. There are definitely 2 separate values, 1 for below 3k rpms and 1 for above 3k rpms. I got the below 3k value to 21 and above 3k value to 21.4 and i think it's set to those values now because it just alternates between the 2 depends on the gear I pull with. Although it's not perfect I feel like the improvement from 17.9 is very noticeable and I'm happy with it. Thanks for all the help guys

 

So is your intent to run octane booster with every tank of gas from here on out? Seems the ignition advance is to aggressive for 93oct on your particular setup if it can't achieve those numbers without octane booster.

 

To my understanding the octane booster was to get rid of the false knock and I plan on going back to regular 93 on my next fill up. I'm hoping the values stay consistent but I've already scheduled the valve last inspection for precautionary measures.

 

Valve lash isn't going to impact your knock numbers. If there is a problem with lash you get either incessant ticking at a perfectly regular interval, or you get a burned valve. AMHIK.

 

Anxious to hear the results when you go back to 93oct to see if the values stay in the 20's?

 

Is should if u don't knock

 

Yes, this is totally normal. I find that KCLV can move around, especially when shifting aggressively.

Rafi

 

So a healthy car should be seeing values above 20, but at the same time depending on how you're driving, the values may drop a bit to 19. But overall as long as your car is able to get above 20, you should be relieved? Am I understanding that correctly? Or should that value never really drop under 19/20?
Just want to make sure I understand this correctly and that my car is running properly before I dive in for the tune.

 

You know... I was just discussing this issue with a customer who drag races and another factor may be how you use the car.

For example, if you do a lot of city driving mixed with sudden acceleration, or if you drag race and wait 5-10 minutes for your turn between runs, you will see very high initial intake air temps.

All you have to do is datalog intake air temp after the car has been driven and is idling for 5-10 mintues... even on a 70F day, you will see intake air temps climbin to 160F+.

Now... lets say you are sitting and idling at 160F intake air temps, and suddenly launch the car to accelerate... this is a condition that may induce some minor detonation and may reduce the KCLV.

Rafi

 

This is essentially my drive everyday in LA traffic
Bumper to bumper freeway traffic for 25 miles with some clear spots, so essentially city driving. Then hard acceleration during those free spots in the freeway. Guess I'll need to get techstream to get a reading to find out.

 

For first timers....right after installing the tuned ecu...which gear is best for first couple WOTs? Start with 6th? Or maximum load 8th gear?
Do we have to WOT till redline?(7200rpm)

 

There are 2 different values to watch for, below 3k rpms and above 3k. In my experience 5th and 6th seem to work the best from about 50-120+ but I do a few 8th gear pulls as well. Then once the values climb to the 20's I'll do a couple 3rd and 4th pulls. I usually get the values to set at there number within a 20 mile cruise on the highway. I've reset my ecu about 10x now. Torco works the best in my opinion to maximize those values.

 

Drok149 is dead on. I actually had have my KCLV in the low 13 before using an octane booster (VP OCTANIUM for me) that set it up in the mid 22. Quality higher octane gasoline is the key here. I pumped Valero 91 octane last week and will never use that brand gas again (That's how I got my KCLV in the low 13). Go chevron, shell, or 76.

 

[QUOTE=lobuxracer;9436220]Valve lash isn't going to impact your knock numbers. If there is a problem with lash you get either incessant ticking at a perfectly regular interval, or you get a burned valve. AMHIK.[/QUOTE

Correct me if I'm wrong but my understanding is not the valve lash has a direct correlation to knock number but that the noise from the value lash noise could cause a false positive therefore lowering the knock number.