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Paint shop shouldn't have any issues clear coating over the decals. Wouldn't require a stencil or anything if that's why they said they couldn't do the logo.
By the way this is what I'm going to do if I don't opt for red wheels (too much red) and they were able to do the logo.
With the caveat I have not validated this yet, I am pretty confident the original Lexus branding is painted, not a decal, and the silver definitely turns a golden color once the calipers get track hot. I doubt you could do this on the street without endangering yourself and the public to grave excess.
Also, the OEM finish is without any doubt at least a two stage process. I have seen the clear chip off before the color, then the color chip of to bare metal. Needless to say, my calipers need refinishing. The good news is, if you run HC+800 pads, you'll never notice. They will be constantly coated with brake dust so it will be really impossible to tell the OEM finish is anything less than good. This is also one of the reasons I was happy to paint my 2014 wheels black and powdercoat with clear. When they are clean, they look awesome. When they are dirty, they just look like they have a matte finish.
Love this thread - lots of great ideas. One of these days, I will actually do something about my chipped caliper finish!
Iv'e posted a couple of these pictures before, but here's a kind of play by play of my experience with painting my rotors.
First, the sanding. OMG, the sanding. Easily the worst part. Next time I will invest in some heavier sand paper, (like 100 grit), and a dremel tool. It took awhile using 200 grit to sand down the chips in the OEM clear coat.
The masking took quite awhile, too. Probably 4 hours. This was after a coat or two of primer.
Then, as seen previously, a few coats of black. I believe these black coats really helped the burnt copper pop. Without it, I think the contrast of the final product would have not been as great as it was.
For some reason, I didn't snap any pictures after applying the 4 coats of burnt copper and applying the clear coat. These were just after applying the clear coat.
The product the next day after the masking removal.
Whatup Lexi Illuminati! Quick question for you all... After buying VHT burnt copper and clear some years back, I'm finally getting around to doing my calipers and am concerned with durability. I track my F several times a year and wonder how y'alls projects are holding up to the test of time/heat.
VHT vs. the 2-part 2k clear, as well as the vinyl stickers "cleared in" are my biggest concerns.
Also, I thought I'd seen a member here source new calipers for a reasonable sum, so I was considering doing that and having them powder-coated as a backup, since I'm pretty sure my seals are shot after 110k miles and 5-6 CoTA track days in the TX summer heat. Anyone have a good source?
Also, I thought I'd seen a member here source new calipers for a reasonable sum, so I was considering doing that and having them powder-coated as a backup, since I'm pretty sure my seals are shot after 110k miles and 5-6 CoTA track days in the TX summer heat. Anyone have a good source?
Many thanks in advanced!!
Im not a fan of powder coating calipers, especially because it seems like a lot of powder coaters coat parts of the caliper that shouldnt be powder coated ie mounting surfaces. I used VHT a few months ago, and it seems to be holding up well, although I havent tracked with it, so maybe someone else can chime in on the durability when tracking.
In terms of the seals, you can get replacement piston seals (and boots) from RockAuto, although replacing the seals obviously does require you to take the calipers off the car.
-R
Great work, definitely worth the time & effort.
