I am looking to purchase a 2011 in the near future. What kind of things should I look out for when test driving (I hear some pull to the right) and is there that much of a difference from a 2010 besides upgraded suspension? all help appreciated .

 

The 2011 also has LEDs. Suspension made a big difference to me. Also, starting from 2010 they have Torsen Limited Slip Differential. The instrument panel is different on 2011 as well. The tach now sits in the middle and it's bigger.

 

oh, also the steering was improved as well, better feedback.

 

I'll fully admit that there was about a 2 week gap in between my two drives, but I test drove a 2011 first and ended up purchasing a 2009. The 2011 was all my local dealership had on their used lot at the time, and so even though it wasn't the color I wanted, I wanted to test drive one. I liked the car enough to want to buy one, and about 2 weeks later in another state I found a low-mileage 2009 in the color I wanted, so I bought that one.

I know all of the "on-paper" differences between the two, but in the real world, I didn't notice that the suspension on the 09 was THAT much worse than on the 2011. Some people make it sound like the 08-10 is like driving around on the surface of the moon, whereas the 2011 is like a big fluffy cloud, and the difference really isn't that big at all. If you've ever driven another performance car, especially one that has been lowered, you'll probably find the 08-10 suspension very compliant. Admittedly, I did not drive the 2011 around corners hard enough to really test out the limited slip diff, but that is a difference to be aware of. The other things (dash layout, headlights, etc) you probably already know, or have been told.

 

Only 08, 09 were stiffs , 2010 and up suspensions up graded and LSD

 

Torsen LSD was added in 2010. Suspension was revised in 2011.

 

Yes

 

just drive it make sure the ride is smooth etc. as far as Ive seen and read these cars dont really encounter to many mechanical problems and are fairly reliable. Just check for abuse

 

a couple other things. newer models come with alcantara inserts and the seats are more ergonomic, at least in my opinion Not a big deal though.

 

My advice is simple: just drive at least 2 ISFs. It was tough for me to gauge if the car I wanted was actually "ok" or not. Driving a 2nd one made me realize certain oddities I thought were problems were normal, and certain ones were not. The car I wanted ended up being better in all aspects compared to the 2nd model so I went ahead with the deal.

But my very first ISF test drive was just plain weird. It takes some time to get used to the car IMO.

 

Ya I drove a 11' this past weekend to see if I could feel the difference in the 10' I had driven a few weeks back. I couldnt really feel it but I do like the upgraded headlights and tach but man was this thing overpriced... $55k with 28000mi.

 

You should be able to pick one up a lot cheaper than that. I saw a brand new 2012 for $55k. It was just a couple of weeks or so ago.

 

Things to check:

- Paint (take a small magnet with you)

- Have them run the carfax report, make sure it's not a car from Michigan or something.

- Check the windshield to make sure it's OEM.

- Ask to see the service records, see where it was serviced.

- Check the engine oil, should be nice and clean.

- Make sure the tires are not at 4/32 and need replacement.

- Ask if the brake pads were at least inspected if not replaced. (ask for paperwork)

- Let the car warm up and take it for a drive.

- Check for any performance modifications (intake), if they try to sell a car with a non CARB approved intake in California (I've seen that happen!!! on an ISF) and don't have the OEM intake, ask them to get you the OEM intake, otherwise you won't pass smog (visual).

* All in all, I would check several ISF's before buying, but that's just me.

 

Dealers are responsible for the smogging. So even with an aftermarket intake, THEY are the ones on the hook to have it smogged. So modded or not, whatever they sell you will/should have a valid smog.

 

2URGSE, great list you put there! What's the magnet for though? If it doesn't stick then paint is too thick which would indicate respray?

And where? Every part of the car except front and rear bumpers?