engine warm up
Pole Position
Joined: Feb 2009
Posts: 256
Likes: 2
From: ca
idling a cold engine for > 3 minutes is one of the worst things one can ever do to a nice car. idling is the least efficient way to warm up a car and until warm oil covers all the vital metal parts, your engine is not well protected. you want warm oil to be pumped to all metal parts fast and the best way to get it done is driving your car gently until it warms up. on a side note, idling in general is bad for engines, cold idling is worse.
warming up cars is a myth dating back to pre-1980 when cars had carburetor and would not run well until engine is warm.
Last edited by MicaISF; Oct 8, 2009 at 07:10 PM.
Driver
Joined: Aug 2009
Posts: 111
Likes: 0
From: WP
Coming from Malaysia, the temperatures outside are like 30 degrees centigrade anyway so it doesn't take long for the oil to warm up at all. Usually i start the car, move out and within a minute or so ive got 2 bars on my oil gauge.
And like he said above, isn't warming up only a requirement on older engines which were less compact and built with carburetors ? I don't know could be wrong.
And like he said above, isn't warming up only a requirement on older engines which were less compact and built with carburetors ? I don't know could be wrong.
Coming from Malaysia, the temperatures outside are like 30 degrees centigrade anyway so it doesn't take long for the oil to warm up at all. Usually i start the car, move out and within a minute or so ive got 2 bars on my oil gauge.
And like he said above, isn't warming up only a requirement on older engines which were less compact and built with carburetors ? I don't know could be wrong.
And like he said above, isn't warming up only a requirement on older engines which were less compact and built with carburetors ? I don't know could be wrong.
The oil needs to be at operating temperature - at least 82C or 180F. The oil's viscosity below these temperatures pretty much ensures your overstressing your seals and NOT lubricating your engine as you would expect.
Water temp means nothing because the oil temp is what determines the quality of lubrication, not the water temp.
It is foolish to let an engine warm while idling for a lot of reasons. The best thing to do - start the engine, give it 5 to 10 seconds to build oil pressure, then drive and put a LIGHT load on it. Don't exceed 3k rpm on cold cycle. When the second bar is lit, you can rev a little higher 4500 or so, when the third bar is lit, you are in the correct operating zone and you can safely run to red line without starving the engine for oil.
The BMW M5 used to have a variable red line - it reduced maximum rpm when the engine was on cold cycle and increased it in two distinct steps as the oil came up to temperature. This was truly brilliant engineering for longevity and reliable service.
Putting a heavy load and/or high rpm on a cold engine is a surefire way to ensure a very high wear rate and a much shorter engine service life.
Don't horse it tho until engine and tranny are well warmed.
C.
ClubLexus Stories
Celebrating Lexus & Toyota from Around the Globe
8 Tips for Improving Your Hybrid or Plug-in Hybrid's Efficiency!
Michael S. Palmer
10 Best Lexus Models No One Remembers
Joe Kucinski
TRD Off-Road Premium: Best 2026 4Runner, Except This One Thing
Michael S. Palmer
Top 10 Lexus & Toyotas to Drive Before You Die!
Joe Kucinski
Top 10 Lexus/Toyotas With The LEAST 5-Year Depreciation
Joe Kucinski
Lexus LC500 Convertible Auction: A Preview of Rising Values?
Brett Foote
GX 550 vs TX 550: Best 3-Row Luxury Lexus Family Hauler
Michael S. Palmer
9 Best Lexus Models You Can Buy for Half Price (And 1 You Shouldn't!)
Joe Kucinski
2026 Lexus NX Buyer's Guide: Models, Features, Prices & More!
Brett Foote
No. Just NO.
More NO, just NO.
The oil needs to be at operating temperature - at least 82C or 180F. The oil's viscosity below these temperatures pretty much ensures your overstressing your seals and NOT lubricating your engine as you would expect.
Water temp means nothing because the oil temp is what determines the quality of lubrication, not the water temp.
It is foolish to let an engine warm while idling for a lot of reasons. The best thing to do - start the engine, give it 5 to 10 seconds to build oil pressure, then drive and put a LIGHT load on it. Don't exceed 3k rpm on cold cycle. When the second bar is lit, you can rev a little higher 4500 or so, when the third bar is lit, you are in the correct operating zone and you can safely run to red line without starving the engine for oil.
The BMW M5 used to have a variable red line - it reduced maximum rpm when the engine was on cold cycle and increased it in two distinct steps as the oil came up to temperature. This was truly brilliant engineering for longevity and reliable service.
Putting a heavy load and/or high rpm on a cold engine is a surefire way to ensure a very high wear rate and a much shorter engine service life.
More NO, just NO.
The oil needs to be at operating temperature - at least 82C or 180F. The oil's viscosity below these temperatures pretty much ensures your overstressing your seals and NOT lubricating your engine as you would expect.
Water temp means nothing because the oil temp is what determines the quality of lubrication, not the water temp.
It is foolish to let an engine warm while idling for a lot of reasons. The best thing to do - start the engine, give it 5 to 10 seconds to build oil pressure, then drive and put a LIGHT load on it. Don't exceed 3k rpm on cold cycle. When the second bar is lit, you can rev a little higher 4500 or so, when the third bar is lit, you are in the correct operating zone and you can safely run to red line without starving the engine for oil.
The BMW M5 used to have a variable red line - it reduced maximum rpm when the engine was on cold cycle and increased it in two distinct steps as the oil came up to temperature. This was truly brilliant engineering for longevity and reliable service.
Putting a heavy load and/or high rpm on a cold engine is a surefire way to ensure a very high wear rate and a much shorter engine service life.
same on my m3. variable redline, when starting the car, redline is 6k rpm, and gradually goes up. i just give it 10 seconds, and drive lightly until temp is good
Lead Lap
Joined: Jul 2007
Posts: 483
Likes: 0
From: New York
This is not good at all from what im reading.....
Warm up your car people for at least 2-3 mins...or until the needle raises just a little. If you want your engine to last longer and perform better.
You'll notice a change in the sound at idle if you let it warm up like its telling you its ready.
I only turn my car on and drive off instantly if I need to get somewhere in a absolute hurry.
Warm up your car people for at least 2-3 mins...or until the needle raises just a little. If you want your engine to last longer and perform better.
You'll notice a change in the sound at idle if you let it warm up like its telling you its ready.
I only turn my car on and drive off instantly if I need to get somewhere in a absolute hurry.
(+ w/exhaust) 
Driver
Joined: Jun 2008
Posts: 95
Likes: 3
From: IL
Edit: Apparently my warm-beer-drinking friend says one thing then another. The variable rev limiter is dictated by oil temp, but they seem to rise at the same rate for his 2008 M3, giving some credence to the notion that they go hand in hand.
Last edited by F BOMB; Oct 19, 2009 at 02:14 PM.
Lexus Fanatic
Joined: Jul 2009
Posts: 5,595
Likes: 61
From: CA
typically, a five to fifteen second start is enough to get warm oil to its metal counterparts. its never a good idea to go beyond 3000-3500 rpm until maybe five minutes....just enough for the engine to start getting ready to do some real driving. idling for so long is not such a good idea. even after five minutes, if you're idling--you might as well turn off the engine and listen to the radio. it does no good for your engine.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
LexusFirst
IS - 3rd Gen (2014-present)
3
Oct 28, 2015 06:14 PM
Suneet
LS - 1st and 2nd Gen (1990-2000)
4
Jul 27, 2006 10:59 PM
