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This is an edited post. I did have some missteps, some snow, etc. that delayed things, but here is the story. Thanks ti the folks on this board for assistance and help finding the correct switch to replace. Shout outs to DennisMik, Beamish, cafuvel, benmunger, ed21x.
STORY
We left the vehicle outside overnight and we had the first frost, not sure if that had anything to do with this. The next day an error came up, "Op Suspended", "Check Retractable Hardtop System". After research, I took to dealership for diagnosis, Error B255E, dealership recommend replacing LH side Door Hinge Assembly. Part $5,423.99, labor $6,799.92. One last "misc" charge and the total to correct this issue at the dealership was estimated at $12,243.91. This is about 75% what we paid for the vehicle. I ordered the shop manuals, found appropriate instructions:
Knowing how to open the trunk from the inside of the car is nice. There is a tab between the back seat head rests, pry up gently (I used screw driver covered by shop cloth), use hard/manual key to pop the trunk.
My idea was just to find the switch diagnosed and try to clean, if that didn't work, replace.
Open luggage compartment
Step "2" above, the manual shows the "emergency release cables", those are in the body of the car at the very back. You can see one of the hooks (yellow) in this picture.
On the second page of the manual it shows how to lift out the luggage compartment door (trunk) and it notes this is a two person operation, it is. My wife helped me. I saw someone with a smaller Lexus do this by himself, with shims, but that doesn't appear good for the mechanisms. This was not easy, but not too hard. We had trouble getting started as you need to pull those yellow hooks, get the hinge out of the set position, and then start pushing, pulling, etc. the truck up. The diagram does give a good illustration of the path you follow to get it up and out of the way. I followed the manual further for a while taking off trim pieces, but for this issue, you don't need to do that. Get the trunk cover out of the way and you can get to two switches (left and right)
I found the switch, the area artistically pointed out in this next picture. This is the left hand side, from what I could tell everything was mirrored on the right.
Closeup of the switch (I neglected to take any numbers off this)
I cleaned between the contact and the arm. I used rubbing alcohol (I am sure there is something better) and a metal, pliant, clean straw cleaner (something you would push through drinking straws to clean).
This next shot shows the reinstall, I thought it considerate there was a space in the gear to get to the switch.
As noted in previous post, this appears to have worked (knock on wood). The warning is gone, the roof works, and we have driven around for the past two days with anticipation every time we turn it on.
That didn't work of course, so I set about replacing. Thanks to assistance on this board I was able to locate a switch to purchase. I ordered two, in the course of my work I lost one. The cost of the switch was doubled by the postage, not a complaint, just the facts. Here is the switch purchased: https://www.digikey.com/en/products/...363860/9608182
Picture of the old and new switches, old switch on top.
When replacing make sure to keep as much of the wire in the car, it is a bit tight in there. I replaced the switch and have been driving for 4-5 weeks without the warning and issue returning. I did pay ~$500 to have the switch identified at the Lexus dealership in Bellevue, WA. The switches, with postage, were about $45. To actually do this job, it should take about an hour or two.
Last edited by PeterSnoqu; Feb 19, 2022 at 10:08 AM.
Reason: Update
Freaking awesome Peter!!. Sadly the code and description in the manual is not really stating that the issue is with the switch. Maybe with the Toyota software it would.
CRC makes an electronics cleaners that evaporates very quickly. I would have squirted that into the switch with a paper towel to pick up the drippings. I recently did that to a fuel level sender and indeed it cleaned the carbon/metal off of the rheostat.
12K is robbery, 5K for the part is robbery...6K for labor is rape.
My research of these switch has come up that the black portion of the switch seems to be from panasonic too. I can't find the exact same part number, but based on the amps/volts and arm shape I can find similar switches from Panasonic.
We should be able to find 2 wire quick disconnects to replace these switches in the future....also with piercing probes we can test that the switches work or not.
Agree on the code. I purchased a code read awhile back for my VW. It didn't do much for the Lexus. I believe you need the special Toyota tool described elsewhere. Taking it in to the dealership did give me the detail I needed to find the correct switch (actually, I feel lucky as I was able to access the switch without too many removals) and attempt the repair.
I like the notes on the switches, if you get part numbers for the panasonic switches it would be great to hear your experience. Apologies for not grabbing part numbers off the switch, but I think we have that elsewhere.
Update, the fix lasted 4-6 weeks. The warning came back on. I went back in and got better pictures of the switch. I did clean it again and the warning stopped. I believe I need to buy a new switch or bypass the switch. It appears the switch is on a continuous line with other switches, so at least one (I believe) switch would be active to alert is the truck wasn't shut. First things, first, I am attempting to find a replacement. In a post above, there was a catalog, but I am not sure that is the exact right switch for my situation. Here are some pics, I am on the hunt.
Blue portion of the switch is 1/2 inch long, the depth is 1/4 inch
I can't see the numbers well, but based on the shape of the lever and previous post I think THIS guy is the guy
https://www.digikey.com/en/products/...362860/4691828
I think we found that the original switches were rated for 1 amp....where as this is rated for 2 amps. I'm not electrical savvy so maybe Beamish can weigh in on that point.
Definitely use piercing probes to see if the switch is bad or not with a voltmeter set to continuity. Hard to tell, but to me it looks like the rounded end of the lever seems to be bent down a bit.
Can you see where it touches and onto what it touches to register that the truck is closed?
I can't see the numbers well, but based on the shape of the lever and previous post I think THIS guy is the guy
I think we found that the original switches were rated for 1 amp....where as this is rated for 2 amps. I'm not electrical savvy so maybe Beamish can weigh in on that point.
PeterSnoqu's switch is Panasonic # ABJ39377 and is a 1 amp switch. Electrically, a 2 amp switch will work in place of a 1 amp switch. However, the one you found, ABJ36286, will not work for Peter. It has normally closed contacts inside the switch, while the switch Lexus used needs to have normally open contacts inside. If the switch number was ABJ36386, it would work as long as it were the same physical size.
PeterSnoqu's switch is Panasonic # ABJ39377 and is a 1 amp switch. Electrically, a 2 amp switch will work in place of a 1 amp switch. However, the one you found, ABJ36286, will not work for Peter. It has normally closed contacts inside the switch, while the switch Lexus used needs to have normally open contacts inside. If the switch number was ABJ36386, it would work as long as it were the same physical size.
I received the switches (I ordered two as I have lived with myself my whole life) and I did lose one. I think we are done, I will edit my fix-it post with one more pic and additional notes.
Thanks to all that helped. We had snow up in here in late Dec, early Jan so that delayed me. The new switch has been in 4-5 weeks so I am hoping this is done.
From $12.500 to $30 plus a couple hours of my labor.
Wow
Here is the new switch vs the old one (old one is on top). The new one had a larger metal piece, but I figured that would only make the switch read "closed" more.
If you have the owners manual you should find emergency directions for manually closing the roof in the "When trouble arises" section, though it looks fairly involved.
If there is no message showing on the dash you may have a suspect switch. If you can get some contact cleaner into the switch it may come back to life.
2011 IS250C Op Suspended Error B255E
