$3800 for the assembly?!?!?!?!?!?!?!
when it is only a switch ?!?!?!?!

Not cool, not cool at all.

Folks we NEED to source these switches some how

 

​​​​​​ Bypass the switch.

 

How...the computer is going to decide as to whether the switch is expected to be open or closed to do its action.
If the trunk is open, even slightly, a switch tells the computer that the trunk is open and prevents the top from going down. If you bypass THAT switch (there are probably 12 or so switches) and have it in a closed state all the time...the computer will think it is ok to drop the top EVEN though the trunk could actually be fully open.....I GUESS you could be mindful to check the trunk for a proper state before trying to drop the top.

Someone NEEDS to start a business repairing these things without having to buy a whole assembly.

 

I think bypassing the switch is a reasonable option. Does anyone have any shop manual drawings/pictures of the area? I do o.k. on brakes, oil, changing things out, but not entirely comfortable in the electrical area (switches).

I should qualify this answer. I believe in doing things right, but fear I don't have a great choice here. I am going to search for the right switch, but bypass might happen. We purchased this vehicle a couple years ago, 16K. The deal wants 12K to fix this. I am also a finance guy and that is a brutal "equation" there. I talked to one other place that said they would charge close to the same. Not an attractive job or margin for them. To do it correct with the new assembly you have to take most of the body (o.k., trunk, roof, seats) out so just saying.

I always appreciate a job well done, so any advice will be listened to.

Peter

 

My reference to the trunk switch, was JUST a scenario, there are probably a couple of switches in the assembly you need..I suspect that for 3800 you get both sides...so the switches in there tell the computer as to what phase the opening/closing....not as simple as "Is the Trunk Open Or Not?'

Definitely need a schematic to spell out as to what each switch does. Did they tell you what code or switch is the problem?

 

They told me it was the switch that comes with the mentioned hinge assembly. I tried to push a bit and get more information, but no go. I am hoping someone has a manual that they could scan and post the area. I might have to buy the set of manuals, but last I look it was a bit pricey. On the other hand, doing it the best I can is worth it (past experience)

 

i have the service manual, but cannot look at it today, will try to see if there are any references to the specific switch tomorrow.

 

If you can get the trunk liners off and gain access to both side assemblies....using a multi-meter with piercing probes you might be able to figure out which switch is acting up. The switches are very simple, and MIGHT be able to get the offending one to work again using CRC Electronics Cleaner injected into the switch. Some of the switches will be in OPEN state at rest and CLOSED when activated, and some will be the opposite....

 

Found a used one for $800 +50 on ebay -

https://www.ebay.com/itm/35369555647...556478&vxp=mtr

FWIW in the photos, you see a flat tray-like plate. This is a separate part, # 64361-53020, that sells for $900. So what you see in the photo casts around $5000 new.

 

Holy Moly....is THAT part number for ONLY ONE SIDE, the left side?...IE $3800 for JUST ONE assembly? What the actual F?

 

Curious are the various motors for the top available outside of the WHOLE assembly?

 

Well, I ordered the shop manuals today. I picked the car up from the dealer. There is no error/warning light flashing. That leads me to believe it is the switch. Plan is to not touch the trunk until I have the manual and some time to find the switch, clean it, and see what happens. I appreciate all the conversation. I might contact that seller to see why they have that part, could it be left over after having a similar issue? They changed out the whole assembly and they have an extra?

 

cool cool cool

can you send me the link where you bought the manuals...I'll probably need them in the future for my daughter's car.
I really like the car...but damn, these parts

 

Here is where I bought the manuals from, the binding isn't awesome as I damaged it while scanning, but it appears legit: https://www.ebay.com/itm/27444541382...wAAOSwOYJfJG6B

I believe I have corrected the issue, I will create another post in the hopes this can help someone else. After ordering the manuals, putting in a patio in the back yard, a short vacation, fixing the VW (vacuum hose) Jetta, getting the manuals and more research, I finally got around to dealing with this. The fix (cleaning a switch) has been good since Saturday (so nearly 48 hours), turned the car on/off at least ten time, about five drives, we hope to have our car back without the warning, without the bell constantly going off. Procedure in next post.

 

We left the vehicle outside overnight and we had the first frost, not sure if that had anything to do with this. The next day an error came up, "Op Suspended", "Check Retractable Hardtop System". After research, I took to dealership for diagnosis, Error B255E, dealership recommend replacing LH side Door Hinge Assembly. Part $5,423.99, labor $6,799.92. One last "misc" charge and the total to correct this issue at the dealership was estimated at $12,243.91. This is about 75% what we paid for the vehicle. I ordered the shop manuals, found appropriate instructions:

Knowing how to open the trunk from the inside of the car is nice. There is a tab between the back seat head rests, pry up gently (I used screw driver covered by shop cloth), use hard/manual key to pop the trunk.




My idea was just to find the switch diagnosed and try to clean, if that didn't work, replace.

Open luggage compartment
Step "2" above, the manual shows the "emergency release cables", those are in the body of the car at the very back. You can see one of the hooks in this picture.



On the second page of the manual it shows how to lift out the luggage compartment door (trunk) and it notes this is a two person operation, it is. My wife helped me. I saw someone with a smaller Lexus do this by himself, with shims, but that doesn't appear good for the mechanisms. This was not easy, but not too hard. We had trouble getting started as you need to pull those yellow hooks, get the hinge out of the set position, and then start pushing, pulling, etc. the truck up. The diagram does give a good illustration of the path you follow to get it up and out of the way. I followed the manual further for a while taking off trim pieces, but for this issue, you don't need to do that. Get the trunk cover out of the way and you can get to two switches (left and right)

I found the switch, the area artistically pointed out in this next picture. This is the left hand side, from what I could tell everything was mirrored on the right.





Closeup of the switch (I neglected to take any numbers off this)


I cleaned between the contact and the arm. I used rubbing alcohol (I am sure there is something better) and a metal, pliant, clean straw cleaner (something you would push through drinking straws to clean).

This next shot shows the reinstall, I thought it considerate there was a space in the gear to get to the switch.





As noted in previous post, this appears to have worked (knock on wood). The warning is gone, the roof works, and we have driven around for the past two days with anticipation every time we turn it on.