Air Conditioner - Cold on Drivers Side and Hot on Passengers SIde
I have a 2017 Lexus IS 200t with 75,000 miles. I recently had to replace both thermostats, and water pump.
Now I have an issue with the air conditioner. It blows COLD AIR on the drivers side and HOT AIR on the passenger's side. Is this a common problem with this model? What is the fix?
Thank you in advance
Now I have an issue with the air conditioner. It blows COLD AIR on the drivers side and HOT AIR on the passenger's side. Is this a common problem with this model? What is the fix?
Thank you in advance
There is a special service campaign that addresses this very issue.
Take it to the dealer and have them look at it.
It will likely involve the replacement of one or more servo motors for the HVAC system and updating the software in the AC Amplifier (the ECU for the HVAC system).
I'm not sure if the campaign has a mileage limit, as you are at 75K Miles.
Just curious why you replaced both thermostats and the waterpump...was it just preventative maintenance?
I'm going to assume the waterpump was leaking.
Take it to the dealer and have them look at it.
It will likely involve the replacement of one or more servo motors for the HVAC system and updating the software in the AC Amplifier (the ECU for the HVAC system).
I'm not sure if the campaign has a mileage limit, as you are at 75K Miles.
Just curious why you replaced both thermostats and the waterpump...was it just preventative maintenance?
I'm going to assume the waterpump was leaking.
The water pump was leaking and I was surprised since it is a 4 year old car. After fixing it, the engine was still overheating, therefore replaced both thermostats to fix the problem. I guess cooling systems always fail in turbo charged engines.
I'd even be willing to bet the two thermostats were just fine, but who knows, they could have failed.
The waterpump leaking isn't anything new for the turbo motor, several have reported it leaking at much lower mileage...one was even around 20K Miles.
It's just one of those items that wear and tear will cause it to leak eventually, just seems to happen sooner on the turbo motor.
Here's a thread about overheating on a 2018 IS300 RWD (the turbo motor) which then morphed into another individual having a 2016 200T with overheating issues.
For the 200T in that thread the ultimate fix was the bleeding, which was done several times unsuccessfully before it was finally successful.
They did change the waterpump and main thermostat, but that didn't fix it. They were about to change the block thermostat, but decided to give the bleeding another attempt, and viola, overheating was fixed.
It would seem in that case the initial overheating was caused by a front end collision, and when the coolant system was bled, it wasn't successful. So likely it may not have even needed the waterpump or thermostat...just a good bleeding.
I have 2018 IS300 F Sport RWD, 67K miles, and I'm having the same issue.
When I turn on the AC, driver side blows cold air while passenger side blows hot air.
When I switch to heater, driver side blows warm/hot while passenger side blows hot air.
I checked the recall/service campaign page to see if I qualify but it shows my car does not qualify.
I took it to a mechanic and they charged me $170 for diagnosis and told me AC door actuator center blend door is not working and it needs to be replaced.
They said as it takes lot of work and time to take out the the dash apart, they are charging $1200 for labor and $400 for part.
I asked if this will fix, and they avoid saying it will and rather saying we won't charge if it doesn't get fixed.
Question:
1) can this be the reason?
2) is this a fair price?
open for any suggestion and feedback.
Thank you
When I turn on the AC, driver side blows cold air while passenger side blows hot air.
When I switch to heater, driver side blows warm/hot while passenger side blows hot air.
I checked the recall/service campaign page to see if I qualify but it shows my car does not qualify.
I took it to a mechanic and they charged me $170 for diagnosis and told me AC door actuator center blend door is not working and it needs to be replaced.
They said as it takes lot of work and time to take out the the dash apart, they are charging $1200 for labor and $400 for part.
I asked if this will fix, and they avoid saying it will and rather saying we won't charge if it doesn't get fixed.
Question:
1) can this be the reason?
2) is this a fair price?
open for any suggestion and feedback.
Thank you
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I have 2018 IS300 F Sport RWD, 67K miles, and I'm having the same issue.
When I turn on the AC, driver side blows cold air while passenger side blows hot air.
When I switch to heater, driver side blows warm/hot while passenger side blows hot air.
I checked the recall/service campaign page to see if I qualify but it shows my car does not qualify.
I took it to a mechanic and they charged me $170 for diagnosis and told me AC door actuator center blend door is not working and it needs to be replaced.
They said as it takes lot of work and time to take out the the dash apart, they are charging $1200 for labor and $400 for part.
I asked if this will fix, and they avoid saying it will and rather saying we won't charge if it doesn't get fixed.
Question:
1) can this be the reason?
2) is this a fair price?
open for any suggestion and feedback.
Thank you
When I turn on the AC, driver side blows cold air while passenger side blows hot air.
When I switch to heater, driver side blows warm/hot while passenger side blows hot air.
I checked the recall/service campaign page to see if I qualify but it shows my car does not qualify.
I took it to a mechanic and they charged me $170 for diagnosis and told me AC door actuator center blend door is not working and it needs to be replaced.
They said as it takes lot of work and time to take out the the dash apart, they are charging $1200 for labor and $400 for part.
I asked if this will fix, and they avoid saying it will and rather saying we won't charge if it doesn't get fixed.
Question:
1) can this be the reason?
2) is this a fair price?
open for any suggestion and feedback.
Thank you
I'm waiting for my Techstream cable to come in but from most people that I have talked to locally, this may be the case. Did they give you the part number(s)? I was going to attempt this myself on the passenger side by dropping the blower motor and assembly to gain access to the servos. I'm thinking that is my issue as well but need the Techstream tool to be able to tell which motor(s).
Does anybody have an idea of why my ac is not blowing cold like it used to I have a 2014 Lexus IS 350 f sport and the ac was working fine. The next day it was blowing hot and I found out that my ground to the fans was not making good contact so My fans were not tuning on at all. After I tightened the ground back up the fans kicked on and started to work properly but now my ac is blowing cold on the driver side and now the passenger side blows warmer than what it was. I changed the temp up to high heat and all vents blow the same heat now when I go back down to low setting the driver side is blowing cooler than passenger side but nothing like what it used to everything was fine until that ground cable came loose any ideas on what could be the Issue here? I’ve never had a problem with the ac prior to this happening
Where is the ground located that you tightened up, I should probably check on this as well.
You can check my Notion page to obtain the trouble codes and reset them (no Techstream cable for this process). I recommend writing down the codes that appear and then reset them (also on the Notion page). When you drive for a day, try to perform the DTC check again and see what codes actually appear and write those down. That should help you troubleshoot but you may want to use Techstream to try reset the HVAC motors several times to try get them to work, once you do that. I would clear the codes again just in case the problem comes back you can reference which motor(s) are being affected. The servo that is giving me issues is in a hard to reach area that I can't replace myself without the right tools and time. A HVAC reset actually fixed the issue for me until I need to actually fix it or I sell the car.
You can check my Notion page to obtain the trouble codes and reset them (no Techstream cable for this process). I recommend writing down the codes that appear and then reset them (also on the Notion page). When you drive for a day, try to perform the DTC check again and see what codes actually appear and write those down. That should help you troubleshoot but you may want to use Techstream to try reset the HVAC motors several times to try get them to work, once you do that. I would clear the codes again just in case the problem comes back you can reference which motor(s) are being affected. The servo that is giving me issues is in a hard to reach area that I can't replace myself without the right tools and time. A HVAC reset actually fixed the issue for me until I need to actually fix it or I sell the car.
Where is the ground located that you tightened up, I should probably check on this as well.
You can check my Notion page to obtain the trouble codes and reset them (no Techstream cable for this process). I recommend writing down the codes that appear and then reset them (also on the Notion page). When you drive for a day, try to perform the DTC check again and see what codes actually appear and write those down. That should help you troubleshoot but you may want to use Techstream to try reset the HVAC motors several times to try get them to work, once you do that. I would clear the codes again just in case the problem comes back you can reference which motor(s) are being affected. The servo that is giving me issues is in a hard to reach area that I can't replace myself without the right tools and time. A HVAC reset actually fixed the issue for me until I need to actually fix it or I sell the car.
You can check my Notion page to obtain the trouble codes and reset them (no Techstream cable for this process). I recommend writing down the codes that appear and then reset them (also on the Notion page). When you drive for a day, try to perform the DTC check again and see what codes actually appear and write those down. That should help you troubleshoot but you may want to use Techstream to try reset the HVAC motors several times to try get them to work, once you do that. I would clear the codes again just in case the problem comes back you can reference which motor(s) are being affected. The servo that is giving me issues is in a hard to reach area that I can't replace myself without the right tools and time. A HVAC reset actually fixed the issue for me until I need to actually fix it or I sell the car.
The ground is located on passenger side in front of the tire it is a black wire with white stripe located by the plug for the daytime running light






