IS - 3rd Gen (2014-present) Discussion about the 2014+ model IS models

SPC Rear Camber Arm DIY

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
Old 03-31-19, 02:44 AM
  #1  
Flash5
Pole Position
Thread Starter
 
Flash5's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2018
Location: GA
Posts: 2,624
Received 449 Likes on 365 Posts
Default SPC Rear Camber Arm DIY

What’s up everybody. My buddy vlogs here in Germany and started up his own YouTube channel. He and I got together to do the rear SPC adjustable camber arms. I’m attaching the video in case anyone wants to see how it’s done and how easy it is. The video is a bit long, but it shows most of what you need to do for the install. Don’t forget to subscribe to his channel if this video helped you out.
The following 5 users liked this post by Flash5:
bumbletuna (04-01-19), jimmymac30 (04-01-19), nan88 (04-01-19), Sheddy (04-01-19), wirelessg (03-31-19)
Old 03-31-19, 03:01 PM
  #2  
wirelessg
Rookie
 
wirelessg's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2017
Location: Ontario
Posts: 28
Received 6 Likes on 5 Posts
Default

Nice! Looking forward to future DIY tutorials in your channel.

P.S. You forgot to blur your license plate around the 18.56 mark
The following users liked this post:
Flash5 (03-31-19)
Old 03-31-19, 10:21 PM
  #3  
Flash5
Pole Position
Thread Starter
 
Flash5's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2018
Location: GA
Posts: 2,624
Received 449 Likes on 365 Posts
Default

Originally Posted by wirelessg
Nice! Looking forward to future DIY tutorials in your channel.

P.S. You forgot to blur your license plate around the 18.56 mark
It's not my channel it's my buddy's lol. I noticed that too, but tbh don't care.
Old 04-01-19, 10:28 AM
  #4  
KYLexusMkr
Intermediate
 
KYLexusMkr's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2017
Location: KY
Posts: 307
Received 50 Likes on 40 Posts
Default

What size wrench did he use on the inner nut and bolt? I am thinking he said 19mm/3/4” for the nut, but was it a 19mm for the bolt head as well? Any insight would be appreciated.
Old 04-01-19, 10:38 AM
  #5  
Flash5
Pole Position
Thread Starter
 
Flash5's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2018
Location: GA
Posts: 2,624
Received 449 Likes on 365 Posts
Default

Originally Posted by KYLexusMkr
What size wrench did he use on the inner nut and bolt? I am thinking he said 19mm/3/4” for the nut, but was it a 19mm for the bolt head as well? Any insight would be appreciated.
Yeah we used a 19mm/ 3/4th. The nut and the bolt are the same.
The following users liked this post:
KYLexusMkr (04-01-19)
Old 05-18-19, 11:34 PM
  #6  
AtomicAWD
Lead Lap
 
AtomicAWD's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2018
Location: BC
Posts: 772
Received 96 Likes on 75 Posts
Default

So are they as necessary to address wear at the rear as the LCA bushings are for the front?
Old 05-19-19, 12:45 AM
  #7  
Flash5
Pole Position
Thread Starter
 
Flash5's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2018
Location: GA
Posts: 2,624
Received 449 Likes on 365 Posts
Default

Originally Posted by AtomicAWD
So are they as necessary to address wear at the rear as the LCA bushings are for the front?
Really just matters if you're lowered as that increases your negative camber. I wasn't too happy about the -2.0+ camber on the rear so I installed the camber arms to get to about -1.5 which is much better.
Old 05-19-19, 06:39 AM
  #8  
AtomicAWD
Lead Lap
 
AtomicAWD's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2018
Location: BC
Posts: 772
Received 96 Likes on 75 Posts
Default

Right, seems to be (general) consensus that as long as it's still within Lexus-spec that it's fine. I'm only going with Halfs; seems that it's Downs or more (1"+ drop) that get to the point of needing them. Figured it efficient to do all at once but no point throwing money at something that may not be an issue.
Old 05-19-19, 07:38 AM
  #9  
Flash5
Pole Position
Thread Starter
 
Flash5's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2018
Location: GA
Posts: 2,624
Received 449 Likes on 365 Posts
Default

Originally Posted by AtomicAWD
Right, seems to be (general) consensus that as long as it's still within Lexus-spec that it's fine. I'm only going with Halfs; seems that it's Downs or more (1"+ drop) that get to the point of needing them. Figured it efficient to do all at once but no point throwing money at something that may not be an issue.
Yeah with half downs you should be fine IMO. If you saw the video you know it's not that hard to install the camber arms so I would lower get an alignment after and see what happens from there.
Old 05-20-19, 08:33 AM
  #10  
E46CT
Lexus Test Driver
 
E46CT's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2016
Location: zero maintenance
Posts: 8,612
Received 2,080 Likes on 1,571 Posts
Default

What specifically did you not like about that extra half degree? seems like a whole lotta trouble to go through for half a degree. especially w/ alignment. If it were me, i'd do the arms to go more negative, not the other way around. (up to a point of course) But you're fine.

Back in my BMW days, some of us w/ M3s used to run up to -3 and -3.5 for track performance. -2.5 would be about the norm though as a good compromise. Going back to something "normal" after felt so strange. But for most performance oriented street cars -1.5 to -2.0 is good. As long as you have the rubber and brakes to back it up.
Old 05-20-19, 08:37 AM
  #11  
AtomicAWD
Lead Lap
 
AtomicAWD's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2018
Location: BC
Posts: 772
Received 96 Likes on 75 Posts
Default

Originally Posted by E46CT
Back in my BMW days, some of us w/ M3s used to run up to -3 and -3.5 for track performance. -2.5 would be about the norm though as a good compromise. Going back to something "normal" after felt so strange. But for most performance oriented street cars -1.5 to -2.0 is good. As long as you have the rubber and brakes to back it up.
Going that far didn't do anything re. tire wear or otherwise? You "felt" a daily-driving difference in those ranges, or just when pushing it?
Old 05-20-19, 12:16 PM
  #12  
Flash5
Pole Position
Thread Starter
 
Flash5's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2018
Location: GA
Posts: 2,624
Received 449 Likes on 365 Posts
Default

Originally Posted by E46CT
What specifically did you not like about that extra half degree? seems like a whole lotta trouble to go through for half a degree. especially w/ alignment. If it were me, i'd do the arms to go more negative, not the other way around. (up to a point of course) But you're fine.

Back in my BMW days, some of us w/ M3s used to run up to -3 and -3.5 for track performance. -2.5 would be about the norm though as a good compromise. Going back to something "normal" after felt so strange. But for most performance oriented street cars -1.5 to -2.0 is good. As long as you have the rubber and brakes to back it up.
Tbh I didn’t like the look of the camber from an angle it looked super tilted. Also I didn’t want to risk inner tire wear by being at -2.3 and stuff. Just a precaution and it really wasn’t that hard and I’m not that lazy so not too much work
Related Topics
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
SprtDesign
Suspension and Brakes
2
10-13-12 05:29 PM
NinjaSocks
IS - 1st Gen (2001-2005)
7
05-15-12 04:42 PM
FinLIFE
Suspension and Brakes
6
08-03-11 08:58 AM
JessePS
Car Chat
1
04-15-10 04:21 PM
lexusscturbo
Suspension and Brakes
18
01-28-09 01:13 PM



Quick Reply: SPC Rear Camber Arm DIY



All times are GMT -7. The time now is 04:27 PM.