SPC Rear Camber Arm DIY
What’s up everybody. My buddy vlogs here in Germany and started up his own YouTube channel. He and I got together to do the rear SPC adjustable camber arms. I’m attaching the video in case anyone wants to see how it’s done and how easy it is. The video is a bit long, but it shows most of what you need to do for the install. Don’t forget to subscribe to his channel if this video helped you out. :thumbup:
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Nice! Looking forward to future DIY tutorials in your channel.
P.S. You forgot to blur your license plate around the 18.56 mark |
Originally Posted by wirelessg
(Post 10480165)
Nice! Looking forward to future DIY tutorials in your channel.
P.S. You forgot to blur your license plate around the 18.56 mark |
What size wrench did he use on the inner nut and bolt? I am thinking he said 19mm/3/4” for the nut, but was it a 19mm for the bolt head as well? Any insight would be appreciated.
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Originally Posted by KYLexusMkr
(Post 10480685)
What size wrench did he use on the inner nut and bolt? I am thinking he said 19mm/3/4” for the nut, but was it a 19mm for the bolt head as well? Any insight would be appreciated.
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So are they as necessary to address wear at the rear as the LCA bushings are for the front?
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Originally Posted by AtomicAWD
(Post 10521173)
So are they as necessary to address wear at the rear as the LCA bushings are for the front?
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Right, seems to be (general) consensus that as long as it's still within Lexus-spec that it's fine. I'm only going with Halfs; seems that it's Downs or more (1"+ drop) that get to the point of needing them. Figured it efficient to do all at once but no point throwing money at something that may not be an issue.
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Originally Posted by AtomicAWD
(Post 10521243)
Right, seems to be (general) consensus that as long as it's still within Lexus-spec that it's fine. I'm only going with Halfs; seems that it's Downs or more (1"+ drop) that get to the point of needing them. Figured it efficient to do all at once but no point throwing money at something that may not be an issue.
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What specifically did you not like about that extra half degree? seems like a whole lotta trouble to go through for half a degree. especially w/ alignment. If it were me, i'd do the arms to go more negative, not the other way around. (up to a point of course) But you're fine.
Back in my BMW days, some of us w/ M3s used to run up to -3 and -3.5 for track performance. -2.5 would be about the norm though as a good compromise. Going back to something "normal" after felt so strange. But for most performance oriented street cars -1.5 to -2.0 is good. As long as you have the rubber and brakes to back it up. |
Originally Posted by E46CT
(Post 10521916)
Back in my BMW days, some of us w/ M3s used to run up to -3 and -3.5 for track performance. -2.5 would be about the norm though as a good compromise. Going back to something "normal" after felt so strange. But for most performance oriented street cars -1.5 to -2.0 is good. As long as you have the rubber and brakes to back it up.
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Originally Posted by E46CT
(Post 10521916)
What specifically did you not like about that extra half degree? seems like a whole lotta trouble to go through for half a degree. especially w/ alignment. If it were me, i'd do the arms to go more negative, not the other way around. (up to a point of course) But you're fine.
Back in my BMW days, some of us w/ M3s used to run up to -3 and -3.5 for track performance. -2.5 would be about the norm though as a good compromise. Going back to something "normal" after felt so strange. But for most performance oriented street cars -1.5 to -2.0 is good. As long as you have the rubber and brakes to back it up. |
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