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@jgscott you've NEVER had even the slightest, smallest issues, noise, screeching, etc? Even OEM/Genuine brake parts SOMETIMES experience issues.
No part is perfect, some are just more perfect than others.
I don't think jgscott means that they are flawless. But, Akebono is a reputable brand and OE supplier for multiple brands. I am sure they are a good option.
As I search the forum for info, can't seem to get a clear answer for 60K maintenance on 2014 IS 350 FSport. Are these essential? A yes/no is all I need, unless someone wants to expand (which would be greatly appreciated):
Change (drain and fill) tranny fluid
Change brake fluid
Change coolant
Change differential and transaxle fluid
Change drive belt (or serpentine belt)
Change spark plugs
Change original battery
Anything missing?
Also, am looking to change rotors and pads. OEM rotors seem to rust after a few months. Any suggestions for brake and rotor combo?
Thanks in advance.
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I don't notice the serpentine belt as needing to be changed. Maybe just a check would work?
I think this is a good question and I often wonder the same thing. Logically you shouldn't need to do anything special when changing the battery, but at the same time, like you have noticed, there seems to be random radio issues after a battery replacement.
I've had to disconnect the battery a couple times on my 2014, which makes me nervous AF. But so far so good...no issues (knock on wood!).
My approach to the battery disconnect/reconnect is simple:
Makes sure all doors and trunk are closed (hood open obviously) - this ensures that noting is going to load on the battery at reconnection time other than the ECU's
Take all Smart keys well away from the vehicle (I leave both keys in the house well away from the car)
....
I realize the steps seem pretty obvious, but I can't imagine everyone removes the keys from the vehicle detection area.
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Smart keys have a range for some functions that will pass through walls and 50' or so. I can make my doors unlock when that far away with mine. Better would be to store the key in a faraday pouch to keep the signals away totally if you want to insure there are no signals at all. That was discussed here:
Smart keys have a range for some functions that will pass through walls and 50' or so. I can make my doors unlock when that far away with mine. Better would be to store the key in a faraday pouch to keep the signals away totally if you want to insure there are no signals at all. That was discussed here:
I use the two pouches listed on the link in that post.
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@ronkelley That is correct about the key, but for the purposes of the battery replacement process that was being highlighted, the car can only detect the key within 1 meter of a sensor...the sensors being on both front door handles and the trunk lid.
In the scenario of the battery replacement, the assumption is that no one is pressing the key buttons, but rather we don't want the vehicle to detect the key nearby when replacing the battery, therefore triggering the Certification ECU to wait up unexpectedly.
Hi, per the OP time for another dumb & stupid question... IS350 FSport recommended cold PSI for tires is 36, but in Florida right now temperatures average 85 to 90, & tire pressure rises pretty fast to 50+. Given all of the above, if going on a 3 hour highway road trip, before leaving, should cold PSI be reduced to 34, or other? Tires are Michelin Pilot Sport A/S 3+ all around. THX!!
Originally Posted by AWilson013
Your tires are going from 36psi cold to 50+? That's a huge increase. Typically pressure goes up by ~1psi for every 10 degree increase in temp inside the tire. So unless you're setting your temps inside of a freezer, that's surprising. Try lowering your pressure when warm to 40psi and see what it's at in the morning. I am really curious about this. I can't understand why it would fluctuate so much. For comparison, I set my cold pressure to 36psi in my garage which is always at 69-70 degrees. Even on the HOTTEST summer days (100+), I have never seen my pressure over 43psi.
Originally Posted by ShrinkDoc
We had this issue in the 70's when living in the San Juaquin valley of CA where it would get >115, and when we lived in Phoenix (where it too would get above 110). I would lower the air pressure below suggested by 3-5PSI, realizing that if I didn't, the tires could blow out, or get a bubble if I hit a pothole or rock. I run my tires at 32PSI now in the NE in the summer (they get to 35PSI), and 36 in the winter (they drop to 30-32PSI), and seem to get >25K while not sacrificing handling/braking/mpg. Also, I wouldn't trust the TPMS entirely, do an actual check with a good tire pressure gauge. My car's outside temp gauge, for example, is generally 3-6 degrees off...so I'm reluctant to put too much stock on them.
To get an idea of what I'm talkin bout check out the pic of a sign near my place.
I recently installed the Akebono pads for the front using ASP1118. After the initial install, there was a noticeable screeching sound when brakes were applied. I then recalled that for ceramic brake pads, when installing together with new rotors, there is a bedding-in procedure like this. I followed the procedure and the next day, the sound was gone. There has so far been no morning/cold brake screeching noise and brake bite for me was the same as original brake pads (I seldom do spirited driving and hard braking). If the rotors last longer than when the original pads were used, I would consider that a win.
I'm following the akebono break in recommendation of normal driving (no hard stops) for 4-500 miles. After 250 miles it is getting better and better each day, smoothness wise, but I was not having a noise issue.
No part is perfect, some are just more perfect than others.
I don't think jgscott means that they are flawless. But, Akebono is a reputable brand and OE supplier for multiple brands. I am sure they are a good option.
No I did not say they were perfect. Just sharing some info from my own experience. Another thing I have found is that yes you have to let the new pads bed in and get friendly with the Rotors. Its also been my experience that you need to clean and lube properly the components too like the brake pins, and backing plates. That is in most case where you will get the noise from. I never have noise. I do the break in, clean and lube always.
On my cars IMO the Akebono's last way longer, and brake better. Keep in mind that there are normally 2 different types of Akebono pads also. There is a Pro-Act Pad and a Performance Pad. I use the Performance Pads when available along with High Carbon strong rotors.
Akebono is one of, if not the Best brake pad for Lexus. I have been using them for years on all Lexus.
They stop way better and last longer too. They are well known for this. I use to do only Lexus pads and they are ok but they wear way to fast. Akebono if they make Pads for the Lexus you have, and you will never look back.
I also use Auto Zone Gold High carbon Black Rotors. They are well made and Carbon. They work great are harder, and also perform better and outlast the Stock rotors at a better price.
This one I posted before. Been working well for me for years on different Lexus, and other. This is just one.
Alright guys time for my dumb question. I have a 2015 Lexus IS250 F Sport with damage to the front bumper on the passenger side.
I found this primed bumper on rock auto, does anyone know if this would work for my Lexus? Any suggestions for alternatives?
The grill itself doesn't looked damaged, but the grill molding is so I was going to buy a replacement for that as well. Are there any other parts I should be considering for this project? Should I look into a completely different kit for the front bumper? This is my first time replacing a front bumper, and I'm just an amateur mechanic but I really don't want to pay a shop $2k+. I've seen a few threads on here about replacing the bumper and watched some youtube videos, it's definitely a process but I believe I can do it.
I believe you have the right part. So that will work.
I think some of the chrome trim (on the left if you are looking at the car from the front) around the grille is also messed up... so that will need replacement, too. I am not 100% sure about the area in the wheel well where you show there is some damage, but it's possible that trim needs to be looked at as well. Not really my area but wanted to say getting the bumper is definitely a start.
Alright guys time for my dumb question. I have a 2015 Lexus IS250 F Sport with damage to the front bumper on the passenger side.
I found this primed bumper on rock auto, does anyone know if this would work for my Lexus? Any suggestions for alternatives?
The grill itself doesn't looked damaged, but the grill molding is so I was going to buy a replacement for that as well. Are there any other parts I should be considering for this project? Should I look into a completely different kit for the front bumper? This is my first time replacing a front bumper, and I'm just an amateur mechanic but I really don't want to pay a shop $2k+. I've seen a few threads on here about replacing the bumper and watched some youtube videos, it's definitely a process but I believe I can do it.
The bumper appears to be the correct one, and the price is dirt cheap...you will obviously need a body shop to paint it for you.
It also looks like you would definitely need the grill surround as well.
Swapping the bumper is fairly straight forward and you can do it with basic hand tools.
Once all the fasteners are still on the vehicle/old bumper you should be fine.
I'm assuming you have the fog light blank insert for the passenger side?
The only other pieces you might need is for the wheel well...I see some torn parts in the pics, but you might even be able to reuse them.
Question: There's no memory settings buttons on the door. Is there a way to have memory settings for certain drivers? So when my wife drives, the seat adjusts to her, and vice versa to me?
Another question: What's the easiest way to switch between connected BT devices? Both my wife's and my phones are stored/connected to the car, but to change from one phone to the other, the only way I've seen to do this is to go a few layers deep into the menu settings and select it that way. Is there an easier way to toggle from one BT device to the next?
