3IS Simple/"Dumb" Questions Thread - Ask away and get answers!
Last edited by LaZeR; Apr 14, 2020 at 03:14 PM.
So back to the Simple/"Dumb" question topics:
Coming form the ISF, I'm used to the transmission holding a gear and bouncing off the rev limiter until you upshift. I read that people have the same experience with the 3IS but all I have experienced in our 2016 IS300 AWD F Sport is an auto up shift before redline when I'm in manual mode. And yes I have tried normal and sport modes. Am I missing something or does the 3IS have a "fake" manual shift mode?
Coming form the ISF, I'm used to the transmission holding a gear and bouncing off the rev limiter until you upshift. I read that people have the same experience with the 3IS but all I have experienced in our 2016 IS300 AWD F Sport is an auto up shift before redline when I'm in manual mode. And yes I have tried normal and sport modes. Am I missing something or does the 3IS have a "fake" manual shift mode?
When you come to a complete stop, hold TRAC-OFF for maybe 5 seconds or so, then you will see on the dash a display informing you ""TRAC-OFF" and it will stay off for good.
Isn't Traction Control just a button on your car? But, this might result in dissatisfaction coz Lexus always automatically & unexpectedly re-engages Traction Control:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=P2JlBVnBfvU
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=P2JlBVnBfvU
Yeah, if you press the TC OFF button while moving, even if you hold it down, it will re-engage after a while. The idea is that you have TC off just long enough to get out of a sticky situation, but not long enough for you to crash the car. 
You could also do the "pedal dance" when starting the car to have TC permanently off - or, at least, permanent until the next time you start the car.

You could also do the "pedal dance" when starting the car to have TC permanently off - or, at least, permanent until the next time you start the car.
Dunno if this guy in advance did the "pedal dance" coz Traction Control always stays OFF, but he often down shifts while accelerating or at high speeds(!?), which I always try to avoid JUST IN CASE of wear & tear or damage (to the transmission). Any comments?
EDIT: even RED LINES it in first gear!!
lol
EDIT: even RED LINES it in first gear!!
lol
Last edited by LaZeR; Apr 15, 2020 at 04:02 PM.
Dunno if this guy in advance did the "pedal dance" coz Traction Control always stays OFF, but he often down shifts while accelerating or at high speeds(!?), which I always try to avoid JUST IN CASE of damage to the transmission. Any comments?
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PuC64BDdQUE
EDIT: even RED LINES it in first gear!!
lol
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PuC64BDdQUE
EDIT: even RED LINES it in first gear!!
lolI'm not seeing anything objectionable about that. Do I drive like that every day? No! But, I'll say I drove my IS in a spirited manner frequently. As long as you're changing your oil and not driving like that for extended periods of time, all you're doing is burning gas. And in theory, subjecting the engine to more wear.
Although most of the time I put-around keeping rpms. low. But your not hurting this car pushing its limits from time to time.
When I was younger in my 2JZ I drove like that 95% of the time lol. But car was rock solid.
@ @PJSnow did you watch those videos posted just above? There's lots of info in them. Also, just to confirm, you're STILL referring to paddle shifting correct? Thanks!!
But in regards to my original question, it was answered. Thanks everyone!
Your 16 should bounce off the rev limiter, try traction control off. Only earlier production 14s will upshift no matter what. If you just click Trac-Off once, it will go back on after I think 40mph.
When you come to a complete stop, hold TRAC-OFF for maybe 5 seconds or so, then you will see on the dash a display informing you ""TRAC-OFF" and it will stay off for good.
See above reply for how to keep it off, and its not unexpected its predictable at i think 40mph, maybe less.
When you come to a complete stop, hold TRAC-OFF for maybe 5 seconds or so, then you will see on the dash a display informing you ""TRAC-OFF" and it will stay off for good.
See above reply for how to keep it off, and its not unexpected its predictable at i think 40mph, maybe less.
Is there a possibility to update the transmission software so it would keep the gear?
I do not know, haven't seen to talked about here. I was wondering the same thing when I posted that. Doesn't seem like it would be terribly difficult to do just an update. But I'm clueless
Back to Dumb/Stupid Questions -- tried to research but couldn't find anything:
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- After applying rim / tire / wheel cleaner, it gets on my brakes & rotors, etc, sometimes forget to thoroughly wash it off, and then for while when backing up, or stopping, I hear grinding, like mechanisms/parts might be getting corrugated > do you know if this might be some kind of issue?
- I have OEM Bridgestone tires on the rear, and Michelin PS A/S 3+ on the front, and both state around Maximum 40 PSI. Recommended IS350 FSport cold PSI is 36 (per door labels), but after driving in Florida, PSI sometimes reaches 45+ > is this pretty bad for tires - could they overheat, blow out, or something?
Last edited by LaZeR; Apr 18, 2020 at 05:56 PM.
Back to Dumb/Stupid Questions -- tried to research but couldn't find anything:
-
-
- After applying rim / tire / wheel cleaner, it gets on my brakes & rotors, etc, sometimes forget to thoroughly wash it off, and then for while when backing up, or stopping, I hear grinding, like mechanisms/parts might be getting corrugated > do you know if this might be some kind of issue?
- I have OEM Bridgestone tires on the rear, and Michelin PS A/S 3+ on the front, and both state around Maximum 40 PSI. Recommended IS350 FSport cold PSI is 36 (per door labels), but after driving in Florida, PSI sometimes reaches 45+ > is this pretty bad for tires - could they overheat, blow out, or something?
When i looked up the Michelin tire specs, it shows max pressure as 51psi (tirerack). But no, you should not drive your tires over max pressure for very long. figure out the correct max pressure of your tires and make sure your pressure doesn't hit that.
Back to Dumb/Stupid Questions -- tried to research but couldn't find anything:
-
-
- After applying rim / tire / wheel cleaner, it gets on my brakes & rotors, etc, sometimes forget to thoroughly wash it off, and then for while when backing up, or stopping, I hear grinding, like mechanisms/parts might be getting corrugated > do you know if this might be some kind of issue?
- I have OEM Bridgestone tires on the rear, and Michelin PS A/S 3+ on the front, and both state around Maximum 40 PSI. Recommended IS350 FSport cold PSI is 36 (per door labels), but after driving in Florida, PSI sometimes reaches 45+ > is this pretty bad for tires - could they overheat, blow out, or something?
When the tire heats up it may exceed 40 PSI, and that's fine because the tire manufacturer has accounted for this in the max cold pressure.
To address the tire question, the pressure on the tire is maximum cold inflation. So if the tire states 40 PSI and the vehicle door label says 36 PSI, then set them to 36 as both pressures are cold inflation pressure.
When the tire heats up it may exceed 40 PSI, and that's fine because the tire manufacturer has accounted for this in the max cold pressure.
When the tire heats up it may exceed 40 PSI, and that's fine because the tire manufacturer has accounted for this in the max cold pressure.
Personally I try not to go below 36 PSI, but would be willing to drop 2 PSI down to 34 if this was happening for me. The only danger here, though, as stated, is just premature wear to the middle part of the tire.










