IS - 3rd Gen (2014-present) Discussion about the 2014+ model IS models

3IS Simple/"Dumb" Questions Thread - Ask away and get answers!

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Old Apr 14, 2020 | 03:05 PM
  #706  
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Originally Posted by arentz07
Have you tried it with traction control fully off?
Originally Posted by PJSnow
Ah is that the key? I have not tried that. Now questions regarding that... to turn off traction control is it just a click, a long click, or the pedal dance? I'll have to try next time I go out.
Isn't Traction Control just a button on your car? But, this might result in dissatisfaction coz Lexus always automatically & unexpectedly re-engages Traction Control:


Last edited by LaZeR; Apr 14, 2020 at 03:14 PM.
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Old Apr 14, 2020 | 03:20 PM
  #707  
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Originally Posted by PJSnow
So back to the Simple/"Dumb" question topics:
Coming form the ISF, I'm used to the transmission holding a gear and bouncing off the rev limiter until you upshift. I read that people have the same experience with the 3IS but all I have experienced in our 2016 IS300 AWD F Sport is an auto up shift before redline when I'm in manual mode. And yes I have tried normal and sport modes. Am I missing something or does the 3IS have a "fake" manual shift mode?
Your 16 should bounce off the rev limiter, try traction control off. Only earlier production 14s will upshift no matter what. If you just click Trac-Off once, it will go back on after I think 40mph.

When you come to a complete stop, hold TRAC-OFF for maybe 5 seconds or so, then you will see on the dash a display informing you ""TRAC-OFF" and it will stay off for good.
Originally Posted by LaZeR
Isn't Traction Control just a button on your car? But, this might result in dissatisfaction coz Lexus always automatically & unexpectedly re-engages Traction Control:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=P2JlBVnBfvU
See above reply for how to keep it off, and its not unexpected its predictable at i think 40mph, maybe less.
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Old Apr 15, 2020 | 11:14 AM
  #708  
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Yeah, if you press the TC OFF button while moving, even if you hold it down, it will re-engage after a while. The idea is that you have TC off just long enough to get out of a sticky situation, but not long enough for you to crash the car.

You could also do the "pedal dance" when starting the car to have TC permanently off - or, at least, permanent until the next time you start the car.
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Old Apr 15, 2020 | 02:59 PM
  #709  
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Dunno if this guy in advance did the "pedal dance" coz Traction Control always stays OFF, but he often down shifts while accelerating or at high speeds(!?), which I always try to avoid JUST IN CASE of wear & tear or damage (to the transmission). Any comments?



EDIT: even RED LINES it in first gear!! lol

Last edited by LaZeR; Apr 15, 2020 at 04:02 PM.
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Old Apr 15, 2020 | 03:49 PM
  #710  
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Originally Posted by LaZeR
Dunno if this guy in advance did the "pedal dance" coz Traction Control always stays OFF, but he often down shifts while accelerating or at high speeds(!?), which I always try to avoid JUST IN CASE of damage to the transmission. Any comments?

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PuC64BDdQUE


EDIT: even RED LINES it in first gear!! lol
I'm not seeing anything objectionable about that. Do I drive like that every day? No! But, I'll say I drove my IS in a spirited manner frequently. As long as you're changing your oil and not driving like that for extended periods of time, all you're doing is burning gas. And in theory, subjecting the engine to more wear.
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Old Apr 15, 2020 | 04:07 PM
  #711  
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Originally Posted by arentz07
I'm not seeing anything objectionable about that. Do I drive like that every day? No! But, I'll say I drove my IS in a spirited manner frequently. As long as you're changing your oil and not driving like that for extended periods of time, all you're doing is burning gas. And in theory, subjecting the engine to more wear.
I 2nd that. Drive the car.

Although most of the time I put-around keeping rpms. low. But your not hurting this car pushing its limits from time to time.

When I was younger in my 2JZ I drove like that 95% of the time lol. But car was rock solid.
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Old Apr 16, 2020 | 05:03 AM
  #712  
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Just a final update:
I turned off traction control (long press and hold... about 5 sec) and sure enough it will hold the gear all the way to the rev limiter. Thanks for the help everyone!
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Old Apr 16, 2020 | 02:59 PM
  #713  
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Originally Posted by PJSnow
Just a final update: I turned off traction control (long press and hold... about 5 sec) and sure enough it will hold the gear all the way to the rev limiter. Thanks for the help everyone!
@ @PJSnow did you watch those videos posted just above? There's lots of info in them. Also, just to confirm, you're STILL referring to paddle shifting correct? Thanks!!
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Old Apr 16, 2020 | 04:44 PM
  #714  
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Originally Posted by LaZeR
@ @PJSnow did you watch those videos posted just above? There's lots of info in them. Also, just to confirm, you're STILL referring to paddle shifting correct? Thanks!!
Yes I've watched both videos fully in the past but skimming through them now. Yes, SavageGeese explains it well and exactly what I was looking for at around 15:00 (yes still referring to paddle shifting). He seems to have done the long press of the Trac Off button. And Everyday Driver seems to have only short pressed the Trac off button so it turns back on automatically.
But in regards to my original question, it was answered. Thanks everyone!
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Old Apr 17, 2020 | 06:02 AM
  #715  
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Originally Posted by HOMER350
Your 16 should bounce off the rev limiter, try traction control off. Only earlier production 14s will upshift no matter what. If you just click Trac-Off once, it will go back on after I think 40mph.

When you come to a complete stop, hold TRAC-OFF for maybe 5 seconds or so, then you will see on the dash a display informing you ""TRAC-OFF" and it will stay off for good.


See above reply for how to keep it off, and its not unexpected its predictable at i think 40mph, maybe less.
I have a early model (made 5/13) and mine up shifts no matter what I do.
Is there a possibility to update the transmission software so it would keep the gear?
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Old Apr 17, 2020 | 09:03 AM
  #716  
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Originally Posted by MGa
I have a early model (made 5/13) and mine up shifts no matter what I do.
Is there a possibility to update the transmission software so it would keep the gear?
I do not know, haven't seen to talked about here. I was wondering the same thing when I posted that. Doesn't seem like it would be terribly difficult to do just an update. But I'm clueless
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Old Apr 18, 2020 | 05:00 PM
  #717  
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Back to Dumb/Stupid Questions -- tried to research but couldn't find anything:
-
  • After applying rim / tire / wheel cleaner, it gets on my brakes & rotors, etc, sometimes forget to thoroughly wash it off, and then for while when backing up, or stopping, I hear grinding, like mechanisms/parts might be getting corrugated > do you know if this might be some kind of issue?
  • I have OEM Bridgestone tires on the rear, and Michelin PS A/S 3+ on the front, and both state around Maximum 40 PSI. Recommended IS350 FSport cold PSI is 36 (per door labels), but after driving in Florida, PSI sometimes reaches 45+ > is this pretty bad for tires - could they overheat, blow out, or something?
THANKS!!

Last edited by LaZeR; Apr 18, 2020 at 05:56 PM.
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Old Apr 18, 2020 | 10:17 PM
  #718  
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Originally Posted by LaZeR
Back to Dumb/Stupid Questions -- tried to research but couldn't find anything:
-
  • After applying rim / tire / wheel cleaner, it gets on my brakes & rotors, etc, sometimes forget to thoroughly wash it off, and then for while when backing up, or stopping, I hear grinding, like mechanisms/parts might be getting corrugated > do you know if this might be some kind of issue?
  • I have OEM Bridgestone tires on the rear, and Michelin PS A/S 3+ on the front, and both state around Maximum 40 PSI. Recommended IS350 FSport cold PSI is 36 (per door labels), but after driving in Florida, PSI sometimes reaches 45+ > is this pretty bad for tires - could they overheat, blow out, or something?
THANKS!!
I don't think the rim & tire cleaner is making the noise, it's probably just the rotors getting slight surface rust after you wash the wheels. When you wash your wheels, do you park it right away and let it sit? i usually drive my car around afterward and heat up the brakes so the pads don't stick to the rotor. Your pads might be sticking to the rotor due to the water and cause the noise.

When i looked up the Michelin tire specs, it shows max pressure as 51psi (tirerack). But no, you should not drive your tires over max pressure for very long. figure out the correct max pressure of your tires and make sure your pressure doesn't hit that.
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Old Apr 19, 2020 | 04:45 PM
  #719  
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Originally Posted by LaZeR
Back to Dumb/Stupid Questions -- tried to research but couldn't find anything:
-
  • After applying rim / tire / wheel cleaner, it gets on my brakes & rotors, etc, sometimes forget to thoroughly wash it off, and then for while when backing up, or stopping, I hear grinding, like mechanisms/parts might be getting corrugated > do you know if this might be some kind of issue?
  • I have OEM Bridgestone tires on the rear, and Michelin PS A/S 3+ on the front, and both state around Maximum 40 PSI. Recommended IS350 FSport cold PSI is 36 (per door labels), but after driving in Florida, PSI sometimes reaches 45+ > is this pretty bad for tires - could they overheat, blow out, or something?
THANKS!!
To address the tire question, the pressure on the tire is maximum cold inflation. So if the tire states 40 PSI and the vehicle door label says 36 PSI, then set them to 36 as both pressures are cold inflation pressure.
When the tire heats up it may exceed 40 PSI, and that's fine because the tire manufacturer has accounted for this in the max cold pressure.
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Old Apr 20, 2020 | 01:45 PM
  #720  
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Originally Posted by Sasnuke
To address the tire question, the pressure on the tire is maximum cold inflation. So if the tire states 40 PSI and the vehicle door label says 36 PSI, then set them to 36 as both pressures are cold inflation pressure.
When the tire heats up it may exceed 40 PSI, and that's fine because the tire manufacturer has accounted for this in the max cold pressure.
Yeah this was mentioned in another thread, too. I don't think I've ever seen my tires go above 41 or 42 even with 37 PSI cold. Must be really hot!

Personally I try not to go below 36 PSI, but would be willing to drop 2 PSI down to 34 if this was happening for me. The only danger here, though, as stated, is just premature wear to the middle part of the tire.
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