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Some people say there is a wire you can tap into at the factory amp for the remote wire, but since mine is a lease, I wanted to splice into as few wires as possible. I ended up running the remote along the driver's side from the trunk to the pedals where the fuse box is. (My radar is wired to the same fuse that only comes on when the ignition is on)
Here's a pic. It's the 6th on up from the bottom left that you see empty (I pulled the fuse out so you can see it)
Oh, and just for the record, there are only two wires that you should be splicing into for the subs. Someone told me in a different thread that you could "tap into front speakers" which was totally false and I ended up ruining the wiring at my factory amp and now my front speakers have never sounded the same. Shame.
Thanks for the info. I vampire tapped into the wires going to the factory sub post factory amp. I dont know how it sounds yet since I was waiting for more information on the remote turn on before installing the amp. I just wired power ground and sound then left it.
Some people say there is a wire you can tap into at the factory amp for the remote wire, but since mine is a lease, I wanted to splice into as few wires as possible. I ended up running the remote along the driver's side from the trunk to the pedals where the fuse box is. (My radar is wired to the same fuse that only comes on when the ignition is on)
Here's a pic. It's the 6th on up from the bottom left that you see empty (I pulled the fuse out so you can see it)
Oh, and just for the record, there are only two wires that you should be splicing into for the subs. Someone told me in a different thread that you could "tap into front speakers" which was totally false and I ended up ruining the wiring at my factory amp and now my front speakers have never sounded the same. Shame.
Thanks for this post. I currently have my Audiocontrol LC2i installed, everything sounds great, but I took the easy way out and used the signal sensing feature of the Audiocontrol to push a remote turn on to my sub amp.
I would rather have a 'hard wired' remote wire than the signal sensing stuff. I was wondering if anyone has tried tapping the remote turn on into the factory amp power wire at the harness in the trunk - I'm assuming that this should be a switched power line. If this will work, I'd rather go this route because It's pretty cold over here now; I'd like to minimize my time spent outside in the cold
Edit: I should add that I have the non-ML system. I've been searching around and found a post wherein someone with the ML system tapped the remote into the power wire at the amp, but their sub amp stayed on all the time. Anyone know if this will the same case with the non-ML system? I'm assuming that it will be. If anything, I'll grab my multimeter and check into it tomorrow. If no dice, I'll be doing the fuse tap. Thanks again for posting this!
Thanks for this post. I currently have my Audiocontrol LC2i installed, everything sounds great, but I took the easy way out and used the signal sensing feature of the Audiocontrol to push a remote turn on to my sub amp.
I would rather have a 'hard wired' remote wire than the signal sensing stuff. I was wondering if anyone has tried tapping the remote turn on into the factory amp power wire at the harness in the trunk - I'm assuming that this should be a switched power line. If this will work, I'd rather go this route because It's pretty cold over here now; I'd like to minimize my time spent outside in the cold
Edit: I should add that I have the non-ML system. I've been searching around and found a post wherein someone with the ML system tapped the remote into the power wire at the amp, but their sub amp stayed on all the time. Anyone know if this will the same case with the non-ML system? I'm assuming that it will be. If anything, I'll grab my multimeter and check into it tomorrow. If no dice, I'll be doing the fuse tap. Thanks again for posting this!
No problem at all! I also have the non-ML and I used to signal from the fusebox because all the information I found about the factory amplifier was very confusing and people were contradiciting each other left and right on which wire was which, I just didn't want to risk messing up the amplifier on a leased car.
No problem at all! I also have the non-ML and I used to signal from the fusebox because all the information I found about the factory amplifier was very confusing and people were contradiciting each other left and right on which wire was which, I just didn't want to risk messing up the amplifier on a leased car.
Thank you. Did this today successfully. I was having an issue with the signal sensing remote feature of my Audiocontrol LC2i, wherein once I shut my car off, my subwoofer would produce a deafening hum. I assumed it was due to the timing of the vehicle shut off in relation to the actual time that the amp gets the shut off signal from the Audiocontrol LOC. This issue no longer occurs after running the remote line from the fuse box. Thank you!
Some people say there is a wire you can tap into at the factory amp for the remote wire, but since mine is a lease, I wanted to splice into as few wires as possible. I ended up running the remote along the driver's side from the trunk to the pedals where the fuse box is. (My radar is wired to the same fuse that only comes on when the ignition is on)
Here's a pic. It's the 6th on up from the bottom left that you see empty (I pulled the fuse out so you can see it)
Oh, and just for the record, there are only two wires that you should be splicing into for the subs. Someone told me in a different thread that you could "tap into front speakers" which was totally false and I ended up ruining the wiring at my factory amp and now my front speakers have never sounded the same. Shame.
I currently use a fuse tap like that for my radar detector, but when I had the subs, I just used the signal wire raw. Just remove the fuse, wrap the sub's signal wire around one of the prongs on the fuse, and reinsert the fuse. So as long as they're making contact, when that fuse is engaged, your amp (and subs) automatically power on. Just make sure you use the correct fuse that only turns on when the car is on... you don't want to use a fuse that is on all the time even when your car is off. (battery will die)
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Shame.
