I soldered to the factory subwoofer for my Line output converter/ high level input on my amp and I cant tell which one is + and which one is -

according to the factory service manual (TIS) it says that the suwoofer wiring is grey (+) and blue (-) but they are not visible from underneath the trunk.

Anyone else do a sub install on this vehicle?
Where did you wire your LOC to?
Any idea which terminal on the factory subwoofer is + and - ??

2015 IS350 FSport

THANKS!

 

sub'd (ironically) for interest, if anyone has info on this we're both interested.

 

The amplifier is in the passenger quarter panel floor. tap your line out converter there.
Should fine colors like what FSM states at that location.

 

http://tinyurl.com/nf67qh8

This is LOC that I used. My setup is as follows:

The LOC ( line out converter ) is tapped into speaker inputs due to bass matching and tuning capabilities. I have 4AWG wire hooked up into an Alpine MRX-M110 1000W amp that feeds an Alpine SWR-12D4 @ 2 Ohms. I'm currently at 1/2 gain on my amp and this setup pounds ( with the remote bass turned up). To even out the system, I added a 3 Farad cap for electric protection.

The link to the LOC serves a few benefits. 1 - bass matching to prevent roll off ( basically only allowing the sub for the bass notes and dimming the interior speaker ) 2 - controlling the amount of sub that complements the current sound setup. aka remote bass **** 3) allowing an aftermarket sub to be hooked up to the factory system

All and all, I pieced this together and had best buy toss it in. Total cost was 135 bucks for the install. They had the car for 6 hours and used the cig lighter ( as per 2g IS ) for the remote turn on. The install was not easy on their team, but I am more than happy with my system. With the remote bass ****, I can keep it mellow when I have passengers or I can turn it up when I am solo. there is zero distortion and the lexus sound system is the perfect complement to the sub. Very clear, very crisp, and very tight bass from the sub

Hope this helps

PS - buy your wires from amazon or ebay. All retail chains just mark it up. My wiring kit is Rockford Fosgate I think it retails for 160 and I paid 78 bucks for it ( came with RCA's, as well as full wiring and fuses )

 

awesome info! thanks!!

 

I actually figured out what to do here.


I tapped into the harness that goes from the factory amp to the rear door speakers.

It is located under the right side panel in the trunk (under first aid kit) You have to remove panel that covers the spare as well as removing the front right cargo hook which can be accomplished by prying the trim cover off from the middle of it which will expose a 10mm bolt. remove the bolt and the cargo hook and then you can pry up the panel. then you will see the factory amp which has a big harness connector. now you have to remove the locking clip which is on the side facing the back of the vehicle before you can remove the plug.

Here is a wiring diagram of the plug.

I used T Tap connectors on each of the wires to go to the LOC.

Let me know if you need any help!

 

Hello, good post above! Can you post the entire amp wiring schematic? Such as which pin/color's are for the OEM subwoofer as well? It would be very useful for others who would like to do a full speaker install in the future.

Do the rear door speakers receive full-range signals?

 

Pin# 6 - Sub ( + ) Grey
Pin# 21 - Sub ( - ) Light Blue


As far as the front speakers, its really hard to tell due to the different options available. I can't post the whole pdf.

Go here:

https://techinfo.toyota.com/techInfo...pmanager/t3/ti

Buy a 2 day pass for $15

Yes I'm assuming the rears are full range sent from the amp and then split from a crossover to a tweeter if you have the mark levitson (which i dont)

 

I don't advise doing a full speaker install in vehicles with factory amps that have center channels and tweeters you are just asking for a major headache and a lot of $$$$. You will more than likely lose your center channel and that adds a lot of fullness to the mid-range.

Unless you are willing to shell out around $5K, then keep the stereo the way it is. They sound great if you add a good sub.

I have the JL Audio H.O Wedge 10" (HO110-w6v3) with the XD600/1v2 and it sounds amazing!

I highly recommend the HO Wedge and the XD v2 amps. Great combo.

The XD v2 amps have an internal amp that automatically does what a high end LOC will do. You can literally go straight from the factory speaker wire to RCA without the use of an LOC. They even sell the speaker wire to RCA splice kit.

http://www.jlaudio.com/xd-clraic2-sw...ker-wire-90435

I also recommend getting the remote level control ****

Unlike the bass ***** on all other amps, this one attenuates the volume of the sub instead of just increasing the decibels of the bass boost so if you turn it all the way down, its like the sub is off

http://www.jlaudio.com/hd-rlc-marine...essories-98118

 

Alrighty, someone check me on this..

Using the above mentioned LOC setup (as it's cheaper than the XDv2 amp options)

going with a JL audio JX500/1D amp
http://www.jlaudio.com/jx500-1d-car-...mplifiers-9940
(do I still need an LOC with this, it has the hi-level inputs. Is there a connector that would pig tail the hi-level input connector of this amp to speaker wire that I could then tie into the factory sub signals?)
Other wise planing to use the LOC with the RCA to speaker wire splice kit.

The RBC-1 remote
http://www.jlaudio.com/rbc-1-car-aud...essories-98015
(says it acts as an attenuator with the JX model amps) I'd like to be able to turn the subwoofer comepletly down when say my grandma is in the car.

attempting to push a Jl Audio CP110-W0v3

aside from a positive and negative cable from the battery what else do i need? Is there a kit that gets me all the wiring I need?

The reason I'm going with this subwoofer is because I have one already in my 4runner and would like to be able to just pull the box out of the 4runner and drop it in the trunk of the IS as needed. I can always purchase a more dedicated sub later.

minus wiring I'm at like $280.. can't beat that for some budget bass.

 

How are you connecting the remote on the amp? DId you connect it to the stock head unit?

 

I have no experience with this myself, but I have read that many Lexus owners have successfully tapped into the ECU ACC fuse -or- the cigarette lighter fuse. It's located underneath the drivers side dash next to the brake padal; you can't miss it, the box has a white cover on it in a sea of black plastic dash panels. I plan to hook my remote wire to the ECU ACC fuse when I do my install this coming week. If you must run the wire through the passenger side with the power wire, there is a fuse box near the car battery as well. An idea could be to use the fuel pump fuse in that box, but I have never seen anyone (on a Lexus) use this before. Otherwise, another option would be to look for a blue wire/w white strip (or solid blue) connected to the amp, and that is typically a remote wire (but this is a general assumption as I have not looked myself).

 

Thanks for the quick reply. I have a 2013 ES300h. I honestly can't remember ever seeing a cigarette lighter, but it makes sense. As long as it's a +12V connection it should work. This is what JL Audio says in their manual.

Turn-On Wire
The HD900/5 uses a conventional +12V remote turn-on wire, typically controlled by the source unit’s remote turn-on output. The amplifier will turn on when +12V is present at its “Remote” input and turn off when +12V is switched off. If a source unit does not have a dedicated remote turn-on output, the amplifier’s turn-on lead can be connected to +12V via a switch that derives power from an ignition-switched circuit.

 

Your fuse may be located in a different area then. The cigarette lighter fuse may not be labeled as such and may be labeled "power outlet." The cover on the fuse box will explain what each one is, so I think you'll be fine. Will you be using a LOC? If so, some LOC's have a dedicated remote wire feature that triggers the amp on when it senses voltage from the speaker leads that it taps in to, which eliminates having to locate to run additional wiring to the front of the car for the remote wire.

 

No LOC for now. I'm going with a JL Audio HO112-W6v3 subwoofer and JL Audio HD900/5 amplifier. That way I have 4x100w channels for the 4 door speakers should I decide to swap them out. Which I'm sure I will. From what I've read, adding a sub to the stock stereo is a massive improvement. I like the sound of that.

That's a great car you have. IS350 F-Sport White/Red. Excellent choice. That's what I would have gone with. I had a 2006 IS350. Great car. The Florida sun destroyed the interior. When I traded it in in 2013, every body panel was cracked. The dash was completed destroyed. Apparently the material (plastic/rubber) they used the first year of production was too soft for warm climates. They were going to replace all of the panels. Too late now I guess.