Ac not getting cold after evaporator install everything else has checked out fine getting cool but not cold.

 

Evap was replaced due to a leak? If installed properly and leak checked and not cooling it means it is undercharged, assuming compressor is working good. Good luck.

 

Like I said all checks check out fine head pressure on high side and low side check out.took the car to a shop to verify work that was done. The shop is saying it could be the compressor but they can't say for sure temp inside vent is only reaching 60°

 

Park the car in driveway get your garden hose. Spray the AC condenser, and see if the temperature drops to a good range. If so there is a problem. You don't want to focus spray the fins. A nice gentle shower setting should suffice. Did your mechanic try this at all?

 

Should be able to get better than that.
The gauge pressures will tell if compresor is bad.
If you took it to an AC specialist they should be able to tell you more than that and do more tests.

A quick and easy way to to force subcooling and test the efficiency of the cooling fans and condenser, I'll 2nd that.
Just so OP knows, several things can cause lack luster cooling such as clogged cabin filter, over charge, under charge, insufficient subcooling(bad fans or condenser) and insufficient superheating(bad expansion valve), etc.

Hoping for your success.

 

There is too much unknown here. Why was it replaced? Crash damage? If not pulled down long enough to pull out moisture from an open leaked down system it will hurt it.

If all is true with your install, debris can clog the valve (Tx) and cause issues. Please take it back and bring back some details. Look up the R134A temperature pressure chart and ask those who worked on it what the high and low pressures are and get back to us.

 

For sure!
We know nothing. lol

Some details I like to read when members ask for help...
What ALL work was done exactly.
What led to the repair.
How did the AC perform before it failed.
Did it ever blow cold, what's those vent temps so we can have something to compare.
Etc, Etc

Ya get the idea...
Plz tell the story.

 

Are you able to see that the AC compressor clutch is engaging and moving with the belt when the controls request air conditioning? Was there a leak-down test performed just after the replacement and before a new charge was installed? Did the shop use a leak detector after the recharge? Did the shop replace both the high side and low side schrader valves before the recharge? I'd focus on the vacuum test and how long that test was performed.

 

Oh, you've done some AC stuff before. Nice!
My new to me 2010 Tundra just ate the AC compressor at 102,ooo mi. It stalls the V8 at idle when the compressor engages... Good times await! lol

Funny part is I pulled the rear diff on the 350 12hrs prior (it's taking LSD soon) and its soon to be in the 90's!

 

Ack! I've never seen a compressor do that but I guess if it seizes really hard it can drag an idling engine to stall faster than the computer can try to compensate. Good luck with that replacement! Same thing - ask the technician if they are going to replace the low/high schrader valves and do an AC flush. When a compressor detonates sometimes it injects disintegrated aluminum goodies into the AC lines and you don't want that to contaminate your system.

Good luck!

 

/derail....

Im looking to do it myself. Cheap ya know. If the highside is full of anything, I'll replace the condensor and hose leading to it. Then flush the rest and cross my fingers. It was blowing cold 38F air until it wasn't.

It still has a charge on it so it will activate the clutch. When it happened it tried to murder the drive belt as the clutch held on good when it blew up. I'm just glad I wasn't in the left lane passing someone!

Honestly the moment it happened I thought I lost 5 cylinders as it was quite abrupt loss of power so it seemed. Very much not a Toyota feature.

If anyone has recommendations on solvents that work for flushing that don't trash o'rings. Please advise.

Thx.
/return

 

Over charged too much Freon will also not let it blow Cool. Need to make sure its a accurate reading of capacity and pressure checked. The pressure check is also based on outside Humidity and outside temp to get the correct accurate reading range.

 

Did you get any warning before it failed like this?
Just curious what it sounded like.
I've heard tired compressors and the noises they sometimes make but I never got to hear one before it nuked like this.

 

Blowing cold at 38°F or so, working like a charm for an old Toyota (2010 w 103,xxx mi). Shows it's used in 164 variants in the truck family from 2009 to 2017.
I did make some passes pulling some RPM on the 150 mi trip. I just happened to be creeping in traffic at 40mph and it just blew up. It cannot be turned by hand (engine off).

So, I'd call that Zero warning! For kicks, the 1995 Camry xle 3.0 I had, grabbed at 114k, ran it to 245k when it was stolen from my son. I added a squirt of fluid along the way but it always blew cold air. Had no repairs that I know of for AC.

What I've learned is that engine RPM and compressor RPM are monitored by the ECU. Should the compressor overload or pull the engine rpm to low <unknown delta there>, is disengages the clutch hence the surging. It bogged down 3 time before I was shutting everything down. I'm not sure how it would have went down had I not shut it down. Which was more to hear what was going on than anything.