I’m at my wits end so hopefully someone can help me solve this issue: the passenger side, rear caliper lower

Paste I’ve been using on the slider pins, both upper and lower.
slider pin keeps drying up. I’ve greased/lubricated it multiple times in the last 4 weeks but it keeps drying up. (Pic of grease attached).

I did sand down the pin but did not ream out the cylinder that slides over the slider pin (although I did clean it out with brake cleaner). And, 2 days later, the brake pedal vibrated and, to my dismay, the caliper was stuck onto the slider pin again (it was tough to slide out the caliper).

I’m wondering if maybe I’m not using the right lubricant. And I am applying a liberal amount of grease. I’m also wondering if maybe the gap between the lower pin and the cylinder that slides over is too small (calipers are remanufactured from Auto zone).

The rubber boot is intact and not cracked.

Any thoughts welcome.

 

I have been using this for years with success.


I first started out with the permatex purple ceramic. It was utterly useless after a few days. It just seizes the parts as it dries out rather quickly.

For the record dielectric grease should not be used on brakes.

 

Sil Glyde FTW!

 

Valvoline Crimson, water proof high pressure. Has been in there 3 years no issues.

Have you replaced the boots and made sure they are fitted properly?

 

Thanks for the tips.

I’ll apply Sil-Glyde this weekend and Valvoline Crimson later if the sliders still seize.

I haven’t replaced the boots as they look good but it’s not a bad idea to swap the old for new (old are still OEM). Will replace them this weekend also.

Will report back with an update in a 2-3 weeks.

 

Replace the pins and all the boots use Toyota Rubber Grease 08887-01206. If you don't want to replace the boots then clean them 100% and carefully inspect them for holes but they may have swelled up which will cause them to seize on the pins.

 

^^ +5

Also, make sure there is no rust or corrosion where the boots seal, that is likely where the moisture is getting in.

Last little bit, too much grease is bad too as you can hydrostaticly lock the floating caliper from sliding.

I used acetone to clean the bores of old grease, painted them while apart, dry fit, grease and assemble..

GL

 

I ordered the Toyota Rubber Grease. ETA is mid next week (ordered it on Amazon - local Toyota and Lexus dealerships by my place don’t carry it. Go figure).

I’ll update this thread in a couple of weeks or so with the results.

 

At some point though, the wear on the slider pin could be so great that the seal's ID isn't a mated match to the OD of the slider pin itself; so the seal pukes grease regardless. Is there a manufacturer max wear limit to measure for BEFORE replacing the actual caliper altogether?

 

Finally got the rear caliper slider pin drying issue resolved. The issue was a combination of the following (many thanks to all the input and suggestions I received. They’re all implemented):

1. Rotor: one rear rotor was warped, which caused the brake pedal vibration. I imagine that the vibration exasperated the drying of the corresponding slider pin

2. Grease: I applied the suggested Toyota caliper grease. Made a big difference. The dielectric grease I used is in fact not the right grease (as suggested in one post)

3. Dust cover: I took a 2nd look at the dust cover as suggested in a post; the lower dust covers were not broken but I had not slid them over the edge of the barrel that slides over the pin, so grease spewed out and dust got in