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So I recently (2 months) bought my IS350 07. It has been great and I have been making fixes all around (valve cover gaskets, flushed radiator, change oil, etc) recently on Saturday I replaced the Front Lower Control Arm bushings for the RC-F's ones as recommended from this forum. After they replaced it I went to get an alignment and was notified that the car's left wheel (driver's) a little bit behind than the right's (passenger) one and that the car may drift to the left. I asked why and he didn't seem to know and said he can only do alignments, so he went ahead and did his thing. So I guess I have a problem with this because after I left now I have a crooked steering wheel to the left. Befor I got there the steering was straight and I didn't had any drift.
He provided a sheet of the analysis before he did the alignment if anyone understands and can shed a light
light it would be really helpful!
I don't think the problem is with the RC-F bushings but with a pre existent problem with maybe the control arms? Maybe some front end damage from before I purchased? I am not in the US and the history of the car is unknown since it left the US in 2012.
I uploaded the image to see if maybe someone knows how to read that.
So I recently (2 months) bought my IS350 07. It has been great and I have been making fixes all around (valve cover gaskets, flushed radiator, change oil, etc) recently on Saturday I replaced the Front Lower Control Arm bushings for the RC-F's ones as recommended from this forum. After they replaced it I went to get an alignment and was notified that the car's left wheel (driver's) a little bit behind than the right's (passenger) one and that the car may drift to the left. I asked why and he didn't seem to know and said he can only do alignments, so he went ahead and did his thing. So I guess I have a problem with this because after I left now I have a crooked steering wheel to the left. Befor I got there the steering was straight and I didn't had any drift.
He provided a sheet of the analysis before he did the alignment if anyone understands and can shed a light
light it would be really helpful!
If you didn't have any issues beforehand. Then why have now after alignment. IMO it looks like the tech just wanted it in the green ASAP not even trying. When I get alignments I'm there watching trying to get everything equally as possible on both sides.
Then I usually give them $20 tip, and a soft drink from next door for their troubles.
The camber and caster can not be adjusted so this car must have pulled before alignment...
Cross camber at almost -.50 and cross caster at almost 1.00 degree both pushing the car to
the left. Not likely this car did not pull before alignment.
Something is damaged in the suspension or the subframe is misaligned.
Although the book says these cars are not adjustable, having worked in a frame and alignment shop and transmission shop for 6 years each, there are ways to cheat this.
Both the sub-frame and LCAB's can be moved on these cars to minimize the tolerance stack up. In short, shifting OP's sub-frame left forward, right rearward will balance both the camber and caster. The same is true of physically loosening the LCAB bolts and moving the LCAB around.
What I'm saying is this; moving the sub-frame or bushings an 18th of inch matters to the 25" tire. So, moving the LCAB outward will increase caster on that side. Moving them inward will lower caster on that side.
In addition, if the camber is high on the right, the vehicle will drift right. To fix this, shift the sub-frame left. This will lower the camber on the right, raise it on the left and balance them, if it moves.
As for OP's car leaving with wheel down on one side, the tech sucks and likely never drove the car afterwards and if he did, well, he really sucks and he's lazy.
The camber and caster can not be adjusted so this car must have pulled before alignment...
Cross camber at almost -.50 and cross caster at almost 1.00 degree both pushing the car to
the left. Not likely this car did not pull before alignment.
Something is damaged in the suspension or the subframe is misaligned.
But caster doesn't effect pulling near as much as camber. As I wrote above, shifting and or turning the sub-frame a very small amount makes a huge change out at the spindle and hub compared to the fixed upper control arm.
The point is, is that the act of simply tossing in the LCAB's, can change the alignment. Having installed both IS-F and RC-F bushings in mine, I can vouch and say, them bolts have wiggle room to do so. Now if one takes the time to measure exactly where the center of the control arm lands, you can easily install the bushings with no harm and no changes if the alignment is good beforehand.
And while we're at it:
** DO NOT TIGHTEN THE LCAB NUTS UNTIL THE CAR IS SITTING ON ITS OWN WEIGHT OR THE OEM BUSHINGS WILL BE RUINED!!!!! **
But caster doesn't effect pulling near as much as camber. As I wrote above, shifting and or turning the sub-frame a very small amount makes a huge change out at the spindle and hub compared to the fixed upper control arm.
The point is, is that the act of simply tossing in the LCAB's, can change the alignment. Having installed both IS-F and RC-F bushings in mine, I can vouch and say, them bolts have wiggle room to do so. Now if one takes the time to measure exactly where the center of the control arm lands, you can easily install the bushings with no harm and no changes if the alignment is good beforehand.
And while we're at it:
** DO NOT TIGHTEN THE LCAB NUTS UNTIL THE CAR IS SITTING ON ITS OWN WEIGHT OR THE OEM BUSHINGS WILL BE RUINED!!!!! **
I was there when it was installed and I don't remember if he lowered before he tighten the screw. What would happen if he tighten while the tire is in the air?
Although the book says these cars are not adjustable, having worked in a frame and alignment shop and transmission shop for 6 years each, there are ways to cheat this.
Both the sub-frame and LCAB's can be moved on these cars to minimize the tolerance stack up. In short, shifting OP's sub-frame left forward, right rearward will balance both the camber and caster. The same is true of physically loosening the LCAB bolts and moving the LCAB around.
What I'm saying is this; moving the sub-frame or bushings an 18th of inch matters to the 25" tire. So, moving the LCAB outward will increase caster on that side. Moving them inward will lower caster on that side.
In addition, if the camber is high on the right, the vehicle will drift right. To fix this, shift the sub-frame left. This will lower the camber on the right, raise it on the left and balance them, if it moves.
As for OP's car leaving with wheel down on one side, the tech sucks and likely never drove the car afterwards and if he did, well, he really sucks and he's lazy.
Ask, I have information to assist you.
So basically adjusting the subframe I could get this fixed?
I was there when it was installed and I don't remember if he lowered before he tighten the screw. What would happen if he tighten while the tire is in the air?
The rubber bushing would twist in the housing and over time damage it
Would that be something I could visually inspect? And if so by loosing the screw and tightening again would solve that? Just to make sure?
@2013FSport is more of an expert on this than I am, I will let him weigh in, but if they were not installed correctly I would suspect that they would need to be reinstalled correctly by loosening them than retightening them after putting weight on wheels. The way my mechanic did it was lower the front on a block of wood (he installed them on a Bendpak lift) so he could get under the car and tighten them with weight on the wheels
Would that be something I could visually inspect? And if so by loosing the screw and tightening again would solve that? Just to make sure?
Nope, it won't be obvious. In short, a good mechanic would know better but some get lazy and/or get in a hurry and forget.
So, cheap insurance is to loosen the two nuts, bounce on the nose on both corners, then tighten the nuts with the full weight of the vehicle on the wheels.
Yes, some will say it is fine to lift the car by the control arm to compress the suspension, but setting it on the tires ensures it to be at ride height so the bonded rubber component is not over-rotated when traveling down the road.
Think of the damage like this. Pick the old analog clock on the wall and set the dial to say 5:00 (suspension hanging down). Now drive a nail in right by the center and just above the needle contacting the arm. Now grab the needle tip and bend it back to 3:00 o'clock (ride height). It's like that, only different but the same. One F's up your clock. The other your new bushings! lol
Nope, it won't be obvious. In short, a good mechanic would know better but some get lazy and/or get in a hurry and forget.
So, cheap insurance is to loosen the two nuts, bounce on the nose on both corners, then tighten the nuts with the full weight of the vehicle on the wheels.
Yes, some will say it is fine to lift the car by the control arm to compress the suspension, but setting it on the tires ensures it to be at ride height so the bonded rubber component is not over-rotated when traveling down the road.
Think of the damage like this. Pick the old analog clock on the wall and set the dial to say 5:00 (suspension hanging down). Now drive a nail in right by the center and just above the needle contacting the arm. Now grab the needle tip and bend it back to 3:00 o'clock (ride height). It's like that, only different but the same. One F's up your clock. The other your new bushings! lol
Problem with alignment. Help!
