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But caster doesn't effect pulling near as much as camber. As I wrote above, shifting and or turning the sub-frame a very small amount makes a huge change out at the spindle and hub compared to the fixed upper control arm.
The point is, is that the act of simply tossing in the LCAB's, can change the alignment. Having installed both IS-F and RC-F bushings in mine, I can vouch and say, them bolts have wiggle room to do so. Now if one takes the time to measure exactly where the center of the control arm lands, you can easily install the bushings with no harm and no changes if the alignment is good beforehand.
And while we're at it:
** DO NOT TIGHTEN THE LCAB NUTS UNTIL THE CAR IS SITTING ON ITS OWN WEIGHT OR THE OEM BUSHINGS WILL BE RUINED!!!!! **
Thats why I stated: [Something is damaged in the suspension or the subframe is misaligned.]
Now there is a limit to what can be done with shifting the subframe it will not necessarily solve his problem. As for the lower control arm bushing you will not
get that much movement to correct the caster problem. Lexus does offer offset bushings but even those will only move each side .33 deg, still not enough.
I dont know what kind of shop did his alignment, but most standard places will not be shifting the subframe around so he will need to go to a specialty shop
for further diagnosis
Thats why I stated: [Something is damaged in the suspension or the subframe is misaligned.]
Now there is a limit to what can be done with shifting the subframe it will not necessarily solve his problem. As for the lower control arm bushing you will not
get that much movement to correct the caster problem. Lexus does offer offset bushings but even those will only move each side .33 deg, still not enough.
I dont know what kind of shop did his alignment, but most standard places will not be shifting the subframe around so he will need to go to a specialty shop
for further diagnosis
True, they will not. The thing is if one measures from frame plugs to the lower ball joint, you can see these small changes with a tape measure and know you've squeaked all you can from shifting components.
I spent years as an alignment tech and saw what a dumb @ss transmission guy could do to a car when pulling a sub-frame to mess up the alignment. Later became that guy, working at big name transmission shop where I measured before unbolting major components and when done, put things back where I found them.
Again, people need to look and see if an action will result in moving that lower ball joint fore/aft, left/right. You would be amazed what little tweaks can do.
Ok took it to a shop which the tech diagnosed that the right wheel is 14mm behind. So he recommended to get a new control arm to solve the issue.
Unless both the upper and lower control arms were pushed back nearly equally (nope) I call BS as the caster is too high at 7.9° on the RS.
Seriously get a tape measure under there and compare side to side measurements from equal and opposite unibody plug holes to the lower ball joint. They are accurate and were used to build the car. To determine if A-Arm is bent, measure to subframe. Its cast aluminum and won't bend far without breaking. Once again, keep in mind that one can shift the LCAB which WILL MOVE the lower ball joint and change the caster slightly.
For that matter, 14mm could be measured from the fender to the tire if one had a notion too or the rim lip to body panel. Not the best way but....
Ok new updates. I was checking on pictures when it had the previous intake because I replaced it with the OEM box and pipe and I see something strange in the body on that side. Looks like silicone?? Maybe some bad bodywork has been made on that side?
Ok new updates. I was checking on pictures when it had the previous intake because I replaced it with the OEM box and pipe and I see something strange in the body on that side. Looks like silicone?? Maybe some bad bodywork has been made on that side?
I'm pretty sure that sealant is normal. Confirm it is body color paint over the top of it.
Today received the new (used) right control arm and took it to the shop to get installed. After it was aligned correctly. So I guess it was a bad control arm after all. The RC-F bushings are in place and we'll installed. Thanks for all of your inputs!
Ealier I set up an appointment with a new shop I found in my area. I called the place up, and chatted with the receptionist.
I explained to her that I wanted to schedule an alignment for today.
She asked what was the car doing. I told her that I had just visited my regular mom, and pops alignment place earlier in the week.
I explained to her that it would drive staight for awhile. Then down the road the steering would go left maybe to the 10-11 o'clock position. The wierd thing is the car wouldn't pull. It would somehow drive straight. The first 2 alignments had a slight turned wheel maybe not that bad. At the time I just chalked it up to the road crown. On straights it was slightly off. So I kept using the mom, and pops shop for easy convenience. Since it's down the road from my job. They cater more to selling wheels.
This time I was ready to try out a new place. I pulled in, and after a while the tech walked me out to show me the existing specs. They where so off! I was like holy cow. Then I pulled the sheet they gave me earlier in the week, and handed it to him. Somehow everything was in bad shape. So back to my question the steering shift he said it probably need a steering angle calibration. So I let him do his thing, and then called me back in the shop. He shows me the screen, and is -4.5 degrees off. I said to myself dang my other regular place sucks. Everything had already shifted around.
The the guy says I'll do it all for $110 wheel calibration, and 4 wheel alignment. I agreed and he did his thing the car has never felt this good with the steering wheel actually center. Another plus they actually drive the car before and after for miles. Not just hand you the keys and good bye. If the tech ain't satisfied it's going back on the rack.
I guess you do get what you pay for, and the place needs to know what they are doing.
The specs for the before are not the same as in the beginning what he showed me. This was probably after he already was adjusting stuff, and I wanted the calibration on the steering angle.
PRO ALIGNMENT
5515 N Fry Rd - Katy, TX 77449
If any one needs a reputable alignment place in the Houston, TX area.
Last edited by MikeFig82; Sep 26, 2020 at 11:40 AM.
I didn't know the AWD ran 1/2 the caster the RWD do. But ya, your toe was out a good bit forcing the wheel off. That's not rocket science. Looks like the as found rear tow was a bit excessive too.
Let us know how the tires do...
Although the book says these cars are not adjustable, having worked in a frame and alignment shop and transmission shop for 6 years each, there are ways to cheat this.
Both the sub-frame and LCAB's can be moved on these cars to minimize the tolerance stack up. In short, shifting OP's sub-frame left forward, right rearward will balance both the camber and caster. The same is true of physically loosening the LCAB bolts and moving the LCAB around.
What I'm saying is this; moving the sub-frame or bushings an 18th of inch matters to the 25" tire. So, moving the LCAB outward will increase caster on that side. Moving them inward will lower caster on that side.
In addition, if the camber is high on the right, the vehicle will drift right. To fix this, shift the sub-frame left. This will lower the camber on the right, raise it on the left and balance them, if it moves.
As for OP's car leaving with wheel down on one side, the tech sucks and likely never drove the car afterwards and if he did, well, he really sucks and he's lazy.
Ask, I have information to assist you.
Hi
I can still feel the car pulling to the right. Can you please help me on solving this?
