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Hello, I bought ‘12 IS 250 three weeks ago, having problem with the car keep pulling to the right, did the alignment and the problem still there. and also anybody know how to rotate the tire this is 250 model cause I can’t find it on the manual. And is it 0-20 oil necessary or should I use 5-30?
thanks
Tires: Due to the staggered nature of the IS's tires, you can't rotate front to back/back to front. You can rotate side to side, though I don't believe many do that at all. When properly aligned and inflated, you really won't have any issues with premature tire wear on these cars except for the inner tire wear on the front tires due to a combination of toe, and too soft bushings. You can zero out the toe, but you'll lose some steering feel. You can also upgrade to harder bushings, I believe the most popular ones are the RR Racing bushings, or the RC-F's. Regardless of what you do, these cars love tires so don't be surprised to go through a rear set, or a complete set, in 15-20k miles. If you don't have an AWD model, you can always look into running a square setup so you can rotate tires and get some more life out of them potentially. As for the pulling, as long as the tires are properly inflated and balanced, and your struts are good (not leaking), these cars tend to follow the angle of the road. Most roads tend to be slightly angled to promote rain runoff. Should note some tires promote this behavior more than others.
Oil: Use what's on your cap. If it says 0w20, use 0w20. For reference: If I recall correctly, the initial change from 5w30 to 0w20 for the 250's was in 2010, and went full 0w20 for the 2011's.
Tires: Due to the staggered nature of the IS's tires, you can't rotate front to back/back to front. You can rotate side to side, though I don't believe many do that at all. When properly aligned and inflated, you really won't have any issues with premature tire wear on these cars except for the inner tire wear on the front tires due to a combination of toe, and too soft bushings. You can zero out the toe, but you'll lose some steering feel. You can also upgrade to harder bushings, I believe the most popular ones are the RR Racing bushings, or the RC-F's. Regardless of what you do, these cars love tires so don't be surprised to go through a rear set, or a complete set, in 15-20k miles. If you don't have an AWD model, you can always look into running a square setup so you can rotate tires and get some more life out of them potentially. As for the pulling, as long as the tires are properly inflated and balanced, and your struts are good (not leaking), these cars tend to follow the angle of the road. Most roads tend to be slightly angled to promote rain runoff. Should note some tires promote this behavior more than others.
Oil: Use what's on your cap. If it says 0w20, use 0w20. For reference: If I recall correctly, the initial change from 5w30 to 0w20 for the 250's was in 2010, and went full 0w20 for the 2011's.
Thanks for the reply and I will try to pay attention of what you say and about the oil I also just find out that IS 250 2nd generation they using 0-20. And its marked on the oil cap as well. But do you think it's necessary to change the struts, cause when I drive up 70' it's ok but only the pull is doing when I'm at slow speed such as 30.
Thanks Zmon
Tires: Due to the staggered nature of the IS's tires, you can't rotate front to back/back to front. You can rotate side to side, though I don't believe many do that at all. When properly aligned and inflated, you really won't have any issues with premature tire wear on these cars except for the inner tire wear on the front tires due to a combination of toe, and too soft bushings. You can zero out the toe, but you'll lose some steering feel. You can also upgrade to harder bushings, I believe the most popular ones are the RR Racing bushings, or the RC-F's. Regardless of what you do, these cars love tires so don't be surprised to go through a rear set, or a complete set, in 15-20k miles. If you don't have an AWD model, you can always look into running a square setup so you can rotate tires and get some more life out of them potentially. As for the pulling, as long as the tires are properly inflated and balanced, and your struts are good (not leaking), these cars tend to follow the angle of the road. Most roads tend to be slightly angled to promote rain runoff. Should note some tires promote this behavior more than others.
Oil: Use what's on your cap. If it says 0w20, use 0w20. For reference: If I recall correctly, the initial change from 5w30 to 0w20 for the 250's was in 2010, and went full 0w20 for the 2011's.
I just wanted to mention, if they are Directional tires, the only way to rotate them is to remove them from the rims first, remount and then install them on the other side (side to side). If they are unidirectional tires than they can be moved side to side without removing them from the rims
As a previous member mentioned, directional tires have an arrow on the outside and can only roll in that direction. Unidirectional tires can roll in any direction they are facing
My car wasn't pulling to a side per say, but when there is a dip on the road, it will get pulled toward it. Changing the LCA bushings to the RCF ones remedied this problem for me.
Rubber degrades over time. The degradation takes place in various ways depending up on the environmental stresses such as exposure to high and low temperatures, exposure to UV, oxidation, aging, chemicals, salt, other direct physical forces, etc.
Rubber is a polymer and molecular chains break under stresses causing the degradation of rubber over time.
Bad tires can happen. Usually not as tire grades meet higher performance levels. That said, you stated you can feel the tug at 30mph, swap the wheels from side to side and do a short test drive. If there is a big change it may be the tires. Belts slip and cause pulling.
1st step is adjust pressure. On flat highway, what does it do? After that, wheel swap. Then verify wheel alignment.