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I am the second owner and i've had the car for about 6 years. Also, I do not drive the car hard.
That sucks man. 1 quart every 1000miles is horrid for a car not known for oil consumption issues. Screw the first owner for treating your car like complete garbage when it was new (and likely the whole time he owned it)
you might want to consider rebuilding the piston rings and or valve stem seals if you plan to keep the car and start using really thick oil in the meantime to curb some of that consumption.
^^^ really thick oil??? You're kidding right? NO! This will starve vital components of much needed lubrication. Use the recommended oil for your region. Period!
Try two cans of Yamaha Ring Free (1 per fill up) and dump the oil when done. If you don't run it hard, you should! Find a steep long hill and make it work pulling that hill a few times. You need to unstick them rings!
How do you even know the first owner treated the car like complete garbage there is no proof or evidence of that you have no clue and why would he rebuild his piston rings just because he has some blow by and I'm going to assume he's really not putting in a quart every thousand miles because he just says he tops it off not put the whole Court in. There's no reason to even open up the motor when he's just got an O2 sensor problem most likely just needs to be changed
Aathon H.
That sucks man. 1 quart every 1000miles is horrid for a car not known for oil consumption issues. Screw the first owner for treating your car like complete garbage when it was new (and likely the whole time he owned it)
you might want to consider rebuilding the piston rings and or valve stem seals if you plan to keep the car and start using really thick oil in the meantime to curb some of that consumption.
Yea really pisses me off thinking about it. I love this car and planned on keeping it forever but it sounds like I am going to have to move on from it soon.
How do you even know the first owner treated the car like complete garbage there is no proof or evidence of that you have no clue and why would he rebuild his piston rings just because he has some blow by and I'm going to assume he's really not putting in a quart every thousand miles because he just says he tops it off not put the whole Court in. There's no reason to even open up the motor when he's just got an O2 sensor problem most likely just needs to be changed
Aathon H.
To be exact I put in two quarts every thousand miles and sometimes that isnt even enough.
Try two cans of Yamaha Ring Free (1 per fill up) and dump the oil when done. If you don't run it hard, you should! Find a steep long hill and make it work pulling that hill a few times. You need to unstick them rings!
Originally Posted by merkin110
To be exact I put in two quarts every thousand miles and sometimes that isnt even enough.
^^ Read up and try the product suggested. You have nothing to loose!
^^^ really thick oil??? You're kidding right? NO! This will starve vital components of much needed lubrication. Use the recommended oil for your region. Period!
Try two cans of Yamaha Ring Free (1 per fill up) and dump the oil when done. If you don't run it hard, you should! Find a steep long hill and make it work pulling that hill a few times. You need to unstick them rings!
Considering up to 20W50 is OK for up to -8C starting conditions, I'm not sure what you're talking about. It would be real beneficial in his case.
Originally Posted by merkin110
To be exact I put in two quarts every thousand miles and sometimes that isnt even enough.
That's horrible! I'm really sorry to hear that man. There's just no way the original owner was driving the car carefully when it was brand new and she's now consuming this much oil. Not a snowball's chance in hell. What is your mileage? Do you have any check engine light? Noticing any smoke coming out of the exhaust, smell of gasoline or oil, particularly when the engine is cold? Does the fuel economy seem reasonable?
With the engine fully warmed up and idling, pop the hood and try opening the oil cap. Do this quickly because you're not supposed to leave it open with the engine running. If you feel suction/resistance while pulling the cap out your PCV valve is OK. Just to be sure, try putting a plastic bag over the hole to double check. If there's no suction, you need to replace the PCV valve. This should help with some of the consumption.
I didn't realize you're the thread starter. Please refer to post #2. There is a helpful list on there of potential issues which might be causing your lean condition.
Considering up to 20W50 is OK for up to -8C starting conditions, I'm not sure what you're talking about. It would be real beneficial in his case.
^^
Says couch mechanic! Have you ever actually worked on any part of vehicle using tools?
Do you even own any Lexus Vehicles? If so, why do you think the manufacturers do tests and publish literature about what products to use to maintain the vehicle?
Wait, I don't really care what your response is as you have no real world experience on anything mechanical or electronic!!!! Go post on the Chopper forum somewhere and see how welcome you are! lmao
Considering up to 20W50 is OK for up to -8C starting conditions, I'm not sure what you're talking about. It would be real beneficial in his case.
That's horrible! I'm really sorry to hear that man. There's just no way the original owner was driving the car carefully when it was brand new and she's now consuming this much oil. Not a snowball's chance in hell. What is your mileage? Do you have any check engine light? Noticing any smoke coming out of the exhaust, smell of gasoline or oil, particularly when the engine is cold? Does the fuel economy seem reasonable?
With the engine fully warmed up and idling, pop the hood and try opening the oil cap. Do this quickly because you're not supposed to leave it open with the engine running. If you feel suction/resistance while pulling the cap out your PCV valve is OK. Just to be sure, try putting a plastic bag over the hole to double check. If there's no suction, you need to replace the PCV valve. This should help with some of the consumption.
Here is the answers to the questions you asked:
- Roughly 155k miles
- Check engine light is on (currently off as i've reset it using torque pro)
- I do notice blue smoke coming out of my exhaust during cold starts
- I dont know if it is exactly gas or oil I smell but since i've had this issue the smell of emissions is very evident
- Fuel economy has took a hit since this issue
I will test the oil cap as soon as I have a chance.
Do keep in mind that removing the oil cap on a running engine with VVTi (a controlled oil leak spraying oil 360°) is going coat you, the hood, the engine and any rodents near by.
If you want to do this safely, disconnect the hose from the valve cover and PLUG the opening into the accordion hose from the air filter to the throttle body. YOU must plug this hose and do NOT allow the plug to be sucked into the engine. Mind you by taking air from the intake the idle may stumble as it is used to this *normal* air leak into the intake.
Now when at idle or Rev'd oil is not going to spray in your face. Sadly armchair mechanic has never actually done any of these tests or he would understand the consequences.
Anywho, most all engines produce a small amount of blowby at rpm.
IMO neither test will make your life any better. If it's not leaking it, it's burning it. If it's burning it, it could be blowby past the oil control rings or valve guide seals.
If on a long downhill run you drop it into 4th or 3rd and let the RPM climb for say 20 seconds with your foot OFF the throttle so the engine is pulling a high vacuum (fuel economy gauge reads 90++++), and then reapply the throttle WHILE looking in the rear view mirror AND see lots of blue smoke, this is likely the valve guide seals with a little bit of piston ring oil.
Use that RING FREE and run the crap out of it for a couple hundred miles (no wrecking or tickets. Not my fault) and I bet your oil consumption drops 1/2 what it is or less! Well, unless it's the guides. In your favor is the fact that they updated the ring package and piston oil drain back for this reason. To improve the oil scraper ring and shed oil back to the crankcase off the cylinder walls. So, lots of fresh oil to remove sludge, ring free and flog it. You might be just fine. Sounds harsh but it's likely TOO MUCH IDLE TIME and no long runs at temperature that caused the problem. IN SHORT, HOW IT WAS TREATED. It needs abused to get better!!!! Yep!
Last edited by 2013FSport; Jan 17, 2020 at 12:44 PM.
Reason: Too many to list
Just a thought but if you're getting a lot of smoke and a lot of oil consumption, maybe you should test the compression in a couple cylinders? And you want to think it's unnecessary?
Just a thought but if you're getting a lot of smoke and a lot of oil consumption, maybe you should test the compression in a couple cylinders? And you want to think it's unnecessary?
The flip side is it may show good compression but if the oil control rings are plugged with deposits, it can show good compression and still pass oil. If it were mine, I'd check it the compression.