Intermediate shaft on AWD
2008 IS250 with AWD, 147k miles - About 4 days ago I started noticing my steering wheel feeling a little "notchy" and would pull one way and then the opposite direction as I went down the road. Almost like I had a low tire. I checked both front tires and both were fine. So I thought it was an alignment issue. Maybe I had hit a pothole just right. Then the next day I was backing out of a parking space and the steering wheel was locked and would not turn for 1-2 seconds. It broke loose and it was then that I noticed a light grinding noise as the wheel turned. So there was something definitely mechanical at odds here. So I started poking around this forum and found numerous references to worn or damaged intermediate shafts and their U-joints but not on 250's with AWD. In talking to the dealer they were incredulous that could be the problem. "I just have not seen that happen with these cars. Have you checked your tire wear?" I told him that there was a clearly audible grinding sound at low speeds coming from the steering wheel and he kept insisting that the shaft was not the issue. He recommended a diagnosis ($169) was warranted before they could confirm the problem.
I have not received the same opinion from other non-dealer shops and they were quoting me $600-$800 to replace the shaft. Apparently the entire steering column needs to be removed because the AWD driveline prevents removal from below. I am 90 percent sure the shaft is the issue, but for $800 I am not willing to throw parts at the problem. Has anyone had similar symptoms and had any luck either with replacement or just lubrication to solve the problem? Is it as rare as they say or a common problem?
I have not received the same opinion from other non-dealer shops and they were quoting me $600-$800 to replace the shaft. Apparently the entire steering column needs to be removed because the AWD driveline prevents removal from below. I am 90 percent sure the shaft is the issue, but for $800 I am not willing to throw parts at the problem. Has anyone had similar symptoms and had any luck either with replacement or just lubrication to solve the problem? Is it as rare as they say or a common problem?
The repair shop reports that the sound is not the intermediate shaft but rather the entire steering rack has gone kaput. How rare is that for a car with less than 150K miles? On top of that, the labor estimate is 10.2 hours because they recommend dropping the entire drivetrain! I have been searching and find several re-manufactured units out there. The least expensive unit goes for about $679. OEM new goes for $2,600. Has anyone had to replace yours and did you go with new, used or remanufactured? KBB shows the retail value of my car @$4,000. I am faced with replacement of the rack and keep the car till until it rusts out, or sell it as-is and make a few pennies?
Those U-joints go forever but a bad seal could take one out. My advice to you is to get the tires off the ground and with a helper steer the wheel while you place your hand on the shaft. If a joint is bad you will feel it.
Next I would pull the boots back on the rack and look for water intrusion. If present (rust, debris) etc, this could explain your issue.
I'm not saying they are trying to screw you but I'd want to know for certain they are on the up!
Next I would pull the boots back on the rack and look for water intrusion. If present (rust, debris) etc, this could explain your issue.
I'm not saying they are trying to screw you but I'd want to know for certain they are on the up!
Last edited by 2013FSport; Dec 28, 2018 at 03:37 PM. Reason: Clarity
So I have been driving this car for 6 months with the steering rack out. Not too tough to do so, everyone comments on how loud my steering is though. However, when I am on the highway doing 65-70mph it's another story. Steering is super notchy in that the steering wheel gets stuck in a position just slightly off-center. Then when I turn to get the car back on track for my lane it does not want to smoothly turn but rather jumps 10-15 degrees at a time. The problem is not so difficult when I have a good 36psi in the tires. This has me thinking...I did replace my stock rims and went plus 1 on the new set. Is it possible the lower profile tires placed more stress on the steering rack so much that it failed 6 months in? How common is it to have a steering rack go out on this IS250 AWD setup?
So I have been driving this car for 6 months with the steering rack out. Not too tough to do so, everyone comments on how loud my steering is though. However, when I am on the highway doing 65-70mph it's another story. Steering is super notchy in that the steering wheel gets stuck in a position just slightly off-center. Then when I turn to get the car back on track for my lane it does not want to smoothly turn but rather jumps 10-15 degrees at a time. The problem is not so difficult when I have a good 36psi in the tires. This has me thinking...I did replace my stock rims and went plus 1 on the new set. Is it possible the lower profile tires placed more stress on the steering rack so much that it failed 6 months in? How common is it to have a steering rack go out on this IS250 AWD setup?
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Perhaps you would like to donate the $3,600 to fix it? I am greatly disappointed that the manufacturer that is considered one of the top brands in reliability has a vehicle that has been nothing but a PITA since I purchased it 40k miles ago. So here is a single component that fails and makes the entire 10-year-old car worthless because it is so expensive to replace. Unless I win the lottery and have money to burn I cannot afford to fix it. Your assessment that I am an accident waiting to happen is overblown. I have a 20 year-old Corolla that is more valuable than this 10 year-old IS 250 right now because one component fails. I will never purchase another Lexus as long as I live, and it looks like I will have to drive this one until it is ready for the scrapyard. The only reason that manufacturers have gone to electric steering components is that they forecast that all vehicles will be autonomous at some point and they need to be able to control steering electronically rather than mechanically. Let reliability suffer the consequences.
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