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On my 2008 IS350 with 130,000 miles on it, I'm trying to plan out the maintenance work needed for the next 100,000 miles. Everything through the 120K maintenance was done by the dealer per their schedule.
From the owner's manual and these forums, here's what I have listed so far for maintenance intervals:
Every 10,000: Oil change with fully synthetic oil
Every 30,000: Change engine and cabin air filters
Every 60,000: Change spark plugs and brake fluid; perform inspections listed in manual
Every 100,000: Change engine coolant
After 120,000, inspect the water pump visually regularly and replace it if it's starting to weep or leak
Transmission fluid: I'm seeing conflicting answers on this. Change every 30,000, 100,000, or never as it's a lifetime fluid?
Differential fluid: I'm seeing conflicting answers on this. Change every 30,000, 100,000, or never as it's a lifetime fluid?
Power steering fluid: No info found. Replace every 100,000?
diff fluid I change at 100k, using synthetic gear oil. doesn't have to be OE fluid here but doing this service is overkill.
at least do this to clean up the magnetic drain bolt.
They claim the transmission fluid is lifetime, and there is a lot of debate on the forums as to whether or not it should ever be changed. Keep in mind that the fluid can't be fully drained using a regular drain and fill method, which is one of the ways that you can "change" the fluid. I believe you can get more of it out with a fluid exchange machine.
Differential also debatable. I've heard some say that it could be changed every 30k miles, others say longer.
There is no power steering fluid in our cars.
If I remember correctly, the maintenance schedule for Canadian cars includes service for transmission fluid at 60k miles or 96k km whereas in the US it does not. Don't quote me.
Engine oil is probably the most debated thing on these forums. I believe Toyota originally recommended to maintain the regular service interval of 5k miles or 8k km even if you did decide to use synthetic oil. They may have said otherwise on newer model cars. Your 08 IS350 did not come with synthetic oil from the factory. 5w-30 conventional is recommended. It is what I use in my 350 and I change it every 5000km, which is even earlier than recommended. You will hear a lot of different opinions on this, and there are a lot of threads on used oil analysis on these forums. I am not going to comment on this, and I hope others do not comment on my OCI.
Having worked at AAMCO transmission for 6 years, nothing lasts forever. Change the fluid. 70k mi. Plenty have gone longer but sooner is better. Sadly we can not easily do a cooler line flush. The air oil heat exchanger is bolted right to the case. Its not an option unless you bolt on a truck tow package heat exchanger which does run lines forward for an added cooler.
The other option a pan and filter drop. Start it and get another qt out. So you get roughly 50% in one dump. Read my other posts on this. You cant just dump 4.5qts in and start it. It won't hold that much. Add 3 qts max and start it. Then add remaining fluid.
Rear diff; dump it every 90k mi for synthetic. It'll help you fuel economy too.
Brake fluid every 2 years.
Coolant is more time based than miles. I'd go 7 max if not using yoda pink fluid.
I would strongly recommend doing a transmission fluid exchange. A drain and refill should be fine...although if you want to get a better ideal how good or bad it is, send in a sample to blackstone labs. Actually....do it for all fluids. This will tell you if you are changing it too quick or waiting too long.
THIS will tell you if the fluid should had been replaced or not. Personally I do not believe in 'lifetime' fluids, more so transmission fluids. The lifetime fluid is IMO a marketing gimmick to lower the cost of ownership and (somewhat) planned obsolescence. If you are a person who buys a new car after 100K, yea, run the factory oil until you sell it. For me, I intend to keep the cars I have as long as I can keep them. For most cars, either an engine failure or transmission failure will force one to part with it, unless they just want something new.
Planning to post a thread on my whole ordeal with my transmission going south in my 2006 IS250 6spd Auto, but here are the two blackstone reports from the failed transmission (A960E) at around 147K and the 'new' one from a 2009 IS250 6spd.
Failed transmission (limp mode, won't past 3rd. Slipping in 4 > 5 > 6. Changing fluids didn't help much). For those questioning the car, the previous owner was neurosurgeons and they seemed to had used it for business. They 'donated' the car to an auction and a car lot bought it. I bought the car at 120K in 2015 from that car lot. Car was in pretty good shape over all except for the panels and dash. Body had minor dings.. Seeing a lot of people making huge claims about the transmission fluid...I don't believe in any ATF running forever. Well, I never spent the time to figure out what in involved in changing the 'sealed' fluid, but I seen many DIY for the V6 Camry/Avalon and the like as I'm on the TN forums a lot. I got lazy and just kept 'putting it aside'. At around 145K - earlier this year. the transmission started to upshift quicker than it should almost as if it was lugging the engine, so you would had to mash the gas to get it going after it downshifted. Told myself I'll change the transmission fluid at 150K.
Guess what? I never made it to there.
51K miles transmission from a 2009.
Considering the 51K transmission fluid being a bit worn out due to the metals, I contribute the stop and go traffic in Hawaii to be part of the wear and tear. I've seen a few other remembers in the GS forums with much better fluid condition and more mileage.
The sealed transmission relies on the car radiator to cool off. There are two coolant lines running to the coolant 'puck' on the side of the transmission. No ATF is going to the radiator. I would just do drain and refill, replacing what came out. Doing that to the 'new' transmission I have to get most of the old stuff out. Probably will do the filter later on as well. Using Valvoline MaxLife ATF (full synthetic) with good results so far in this transmission.
In short people need to evaluate how the vehicle is used.
Stop and go driving builds heat.
Climbing mountain passes builds heat.
Auto crossing, drag racing, and power brake starts build heat.
Extreme climate changes (not just temperature) but humidity all lead to fluids that fail sooner hence Canadian spec calling for fluid changes sooner.
Fluid can only take so many heat cycles before it degrades. 2,000 mi of auto cross is like 100,000 mi of freeway driving. That said mileage is not the only determining factor. Boil the fluid once and its properties are completely degraded.
Anyone who pushing the trans in extreme should grab the A760 tow package heat exchanger and run an external cooler up from. This are a good design as they only send fluid to the ext cooler when/if the fluid needs it based on fluid temperature. It doesn't list the temperature but it is likely above 180°F or so.
In short people need to evaluate how the vehicle is used.
Stop and go driving builds heat.
Climbing mountain passes builds heat.
Auto crossing, drag racing, and power brake starts build heat.
Extreme climate changes (not just temperature) but humidity all lead to fluids that fail sooner hence Canadian spec calling for fluid changes sooner.
Fluid can only take so many heat cycles before it degrades. 2,000 mi of auto cross is like 100,000 mi of freeway driving. That said mileage is not the only determining factor. Boil the fluid once and its properties are completely degraded.
Anyone who pushing the trans in extreme should grab the A760 tow package heat exchanger and run an external cooler up from. This are a good design as they only send fluid to the ext cooler when/if the fluid needs it based on fluid temperature. It doesn't list the temperature but it is likely above 180°F or so.
Yep. Very good saying. As mention above and what I tell my friends: my 5K oil change my be OK for me, but for you it may not. Fluid test are the way to go.
Would you know what the norm temp for the A960E seems to run? I've been monitoring via techstream and seems like the engine coolant and transmissoin temp is around the same during normal city/freeway. Runs about 190-210F.
The A760 tow package heat exchange is only available for the A760, right?
I'd guess they are near the same temps.
When monitoring watch your trans temp. It should rise real slow compared to engine water temp when started cold.
I have techstream and Torque Pro, torque appears to mirror the engine temp rising and falling at the same rate so that is bogus information.
The trans warms up slow unless doing work. Like when not in lock up and the converter is slipping it makes heat.
Do a where used on the PN. It should show up on the Tundra, Tacoma, FJ.... Then do a where used on our your A960. If the 960 is the same PN for the 760 you should be good.
If you do plumb a cooler, try to use hard lines as much as possible.
I'll see what I can post up on the truck parts.
I'd guess they are near the same temps.
When monitoring watch your trans temp. It should rise real slow compared to engine water temp when started cold.
I have techstream and Torque Pro, torque appears to mirror the engine temp rising and falling at the same rate so that is bogus information.
The trans warms up slow unless doing work. Like when not in lock up and the converter is slipping it makes heat.
Do a where used on the PN. It should show up on the Tundra, Tacoma, FJ.... Then do a where used on our your A960. If the 960 is the same PN for the 760 you should be good.
If you do plumb a cooler, try to use hard lines as much as possible.
I'll see what I can post up on the truck parts.
I just found this thread - I read it before but I forgot all about it.
I don't think that is true statement. It is possible. I didn't do a where used on the PN listed in that thread but I will say they are not the same PN my research uncovered.
I personally would mount an external cooler up from and not mess with the radiator. Running lines can be tedious but I've done that before.
Look up an 09 Tundra, 4.6l /4.7 1UR-FE engine with 6spd atm and tow package. That should get you the ## I found.
Thanks for great insight into all this. I'm going to plan on changing the differential and transmission fluids soon. I'll go with fully synthetic for both, but I'm not sure which specific oils yet.
I recommend flushes and oil changes. Be conservative. A high mileage reliable car will save you tons of money. Plus you love the car, so treat it well.
07-18-18, 01:30 PM
IS350 132,000 maintenance planning
