I haven't tried but are there any directions on how to remove the ECU?Pics would be nice.Thank you

 

Remove the LH fender apron cover (several clips). Underneath you will find the fuse box and engine computer box mounted beside it. Remove the 3 10mm bolts and pull the cover on the box off. Use a pick or similar to remove the junction block mounted inside the case, once it is removed you can pull upward on the two harnesses coming into the box and unplug the connectors. Once the connectors are removed, there are 2 10mm holding the ECU in place, remove them and lift it out.

Jeff

 

Thank you Jeff!

 

here i just did it in about 30 mins.. you could do it for less but i took pictures and was texting my gf. lol

but anyway!

first of all disconnect your battery!! very important


then this is the box that holds the ECU


remove 3 bolts as shown


start pulling everything you can pull! be gentle





yeah you need to take this out because its in the way

so insert a small screwdriver or something similar

pull it towards you and pull the blue thing at the same time

same for this one too!

then, pull all that 6 plugs

then you take the 2 bolts that hold the ecu


TADA! lol

 

Thank you very much.Very helpful!I ll do it on Sunday!

 

Have anyone had a hard time pulling it out? It such a tight squeeze

 

If you're trying to pull it out after taking the harnesses off, make sure you're moving that harness near the headlight out of the way (pull up on the rubber to remove it from its seated position). I just did my alternator the other day and left everything intact, the ecu had to be knocked loose from not moving for 11 years, but otherwise, pulling up on the junction box, then the rubber harnesses, and the ECU should have have lifted enough to give it enough room to get out of the box.

 

at 115,000 miles, started hard shifting first 2 gears both accelerating and decelerating. Took it to my mechanic I have used for 25 years for various vehicles, and one of their specialties is rebuilding transmissions, They dropped the transmission pan, no metal filings, everything looked mechanically. No transmission related codes stored. Then i did exactly as Metaleckz described here. I am not that mechanical, but was able to gently remove all the electronic plug-in, and remove the ECU. Sent it to MAS Electronics in Buford, GA on a Monday afternoon, they received it Wed. around 10 am, did their work, they put it back into the Fed-x system on Thursday AM, and I received it in Houston at 11:30 AM on Saturday. Total cost including Fed-x was $161. Put it back it -voila! Fixed the problem and car and transmission run perfectly.Almost surreal to me that the fix was that simple.

 

There are posts scattered throughout the site on various models having ECU failures which are misdiagnosed. In short the electrolytic capacitors degrade and leak whereby the logic devices they are serving now make erratic choices. In some cases the leaks attack the circuit board eating away traces and damaging the PCBA.

 

Would like to ask, how to off the white box without damage the plastic next to the ecu due i need to remove the ecu housing to replace the alternator, thanks. 😊

 

I was able to remove the alternator with out touching the ecu.
Have a look here to get ideas.

https://www.clublexus.com/forums/is-...removal-3.html

 

From memory there are a couple of plastic tabs that need to be moved and it just slides out, but it's been a couple years.

EDIT: Yeah, that's how it is, see here:


Jeff

 

any chance u know if I need to program a brand new ECU after install or is it just plug and play? If I do need to program, do I need to go to the dealer? I got a 06 is250

 

I doubt it needs program if it’s the right ECU for the car.

 

When the part numbers match is it compatible? I just changed mine and am getting weird P0000 codes and an AWD C code.(swapped the IC900 chip)

if I would’ve known that I could get all wheel drive on my 2001 GS 300 just by changing the ECU I would’ve done it years ago. Lol.