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Thank you for the pictures and descriptions. It helped me a lot to do this job.
I changed all electrical parts in the alternator. If the engine is running the voltage @battery is 14.08V but on the dash the red battery sign is lightning.
Does somebody have the same issue after replacing the alternator?
Thank you for the pictures and descriptions. It helped me a lot to do this job.
I changed all electrical parts in the alternator. If the engine is running the voltage @battery is 14.08V but on the dash the red battery sign is lightning.
Does somebody have the same issue after replacing the alternator?
I have this issue (battery light illuminating), but only briefly and intermittently, and at the very top of the RMP range in the taller gears (4-6) just before the shift (when the gas pedal is matted to the floor). Not sure if the belt is slipping or if the voltage regulator is failing...
And just an FYI for all of those who went non-OEM for the replacement (I went with a 240 amp Mechman alternator myself)... Be absolutely sure you swap out the steel pully on the new alternator in favor of the Alternator Decoupler Pulley (ADP) from your OEM one; or else your accessories and belt will suffer greatly!
I have this issue (battery light illuminating), but only briefly and intermittently, and at the very top of the RMP range in the taller gears (4-6) just before the shift (when the gas pedal is matted to the floor). Not sure if the belt is slipping or if the voltage regulator is failing...
And just an FYI for all of those who went non-OEM for the replacement (I went with a 240 amp Mechman alternator myself)... Be absolutely sure you swap out the steel pully on the new alternator in favor of the Alternator Decoupler Pulley (ADP) from your OEM one; or else your accessories and belt will suffer greatly!
The belt is brand new. I reworked the OEM alternator. (Changed all electrical components). Mechanical components of the OEM alternator are in good condition.
Here you can see a video of the system behavior. I start the engine. Engine is running light is off. After 1-2 second the sign comes back.
my alternator took a **** this morning... FML
called around and the cheapest place wants to charge me $600
I can get an alternator for $180 so ill try this myself.
quick question:
my car die while I was at work, I pretty much lost all power accessories, all lights came on and no more power steering either.
will it be ok to drive like that for about 5 miles?
assuming my battery will last that long w all the accessories off in the car.
or will it hurt something?
UPDATE to my previous post:
First off I want to start by saying Thank you so much to everybody that contributed to this thread.
it helped me a lot and I saved about $800 by doing it myself.
Second: that feeling that you get once you finished the job and you accomplished your goal is amazing.
it took me about 4 hours from start to finish. but I took like a 10 minute break once I was half way (alternator out) and I also spent some time cleaning my bay a lil since I have a lot of the plastic covers and some parts off.
the hardest part was that damn nut on the back of the Alt. it really is a PITA, lucky for me I have small hands and I was able to squeeze my hand and fingers to get that damn nut out, and as I hard as I tried I dropped it on the way out and lost it.
I knew it was a good chance that this will happen so I had my "jar of nuts" ready on the bench to find a new one and I had not just 1 but 3 to replace that one.
now here is a lil "tip" to help other ppl reading this: what I did to NOT drop the new nut once I was going back w the Nut in to the alternator bracket is I used some silly putty on my 12mm socket to hold the Nut in place, because is impossible to get 2 hands down there. you can also try a magnetic socket or something along the way, but that is just what I used and it worked great.
I bought my Alternator from Autozone for $165 ($80 core) it was a Reman. one, triple tested and it is a limited lifetime warranty.
I had my car towed to my garage, and that was also FREE because it was cover by my insurance company, and while I was working on the car I put my battery to charge so it set on the charger for about 4 hours.
here are some Pics hat I took that day, and I hope this will help somebody else on the future like it helped me
For about a week or two prior to the repair, there was a sort of "burnt electrical" smell when I would exit the vehicle,
Thanks for this DIY. i may have to do this also. my car has 140k miles and for the past few days, i also kinda smell like a burnt oil/electrical of some kind when getting out of the car. This morning, i noticed my battery light came on and off, it didnt stay on though.
i did also installed about 2 months ago, HID Fogs connected to battery, so not sure if that has anything to do with it.
Does anyone have the torque settings for all these bolts?
Ditto!!
I'm right in the middle of this and just realized there isn't any TQ rates in this thread!
I'm mainly worried about the idler pulley, and main ALT bolts. It appears they have factory Loctite on them as well?
Can anyone help really quick?
Also, a moderator or someone should update the OP's original thread and edit that HUGE PITA last bolt behind the ALT. The OP's 10mm reference could really screw some people up. It should be edited to 12mm. Ive already lost one 10mm socket today and would hate to lose another. It's a good thing I read down into everyone's posts.
Few things to note that may help others in the future.
The original write did not make note of other clips/bolts that needed to be removed.
Using these gloves helped a lot (sticky rubber fingers). My hands are size L and I had a tough time reaching many bolts/nuts.
I'm not sure why the OP removed this 12mm bolt, because it doesn't need to be removed. (Note the socket duck taped to the extension - I highly suggest doing this)
I used a bungee cord to hold a 1/2 ratchet with a breaker bar on the tensioner pulley.
I left the belt lay on all the pulleys so it was cake to reinstall.
Pull out this stud on your old alternator and reinstall on the new one before you put the new one back in.
This was the ticket. I wouldn't have been able to complete this without it.
It's a magnet and I duct taped all the joints together and around the magnet itself.
This makes placing the hard to reach bolts/nuts a breeze. The magnet holds your nut/bolt and since you taped it together it allows you to start the threading of the bolt/nut.
The reinstall took around 30 minutes. 10X quicker.
Ditto!!
I'm right in the middle of this and just realized there isn't any TQ rates in this thread!
I'm mainly worried about the idler pulley, and main ALT bolts. It appears they have factory Loctite on them as well?
Can anyone help really quick?
Main 2 front alternator bolts: 32ft/lbs
PITA hidden nut on the back/bolts for that bracket: 15ft/lbs
Clutch pulley (ADP): 81ft/lbs (not sure if this torque value is still correct, I know there are a couple revisions of this part)
Wire with nut on top: 87in/lbs
I don't remember if I put on loctite but it wouldn't hurt. Use the medium strength stuff (blue).
Great wite up and thank you all who replied with followup tips.
Looks like I'm having the first symptom of a bad alternator ... a burnt plastic smell near the belt assembly. Was hoping I ran over a plastic bag or something, but no such luck.
I'm right at 100k, and just replaced by battery about a month ago. Noticed the smell and then really erratic RPM on cold startups, with a higher pitch whine that I had not heard before.
Can someone explain to me why a bad alternator causes the burned pladtic smell? Is something burned up inside the Alt?
Going to autozone tomorrow to pick up the reman one tomorrow.
12-19-15, 04:02 AM
