06 IS250 won't start.
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06 IS250 won't start.
Hey guys,
Need your help. So my car started up like normal when I left work. When I got home I turned off the car and went inside the house to change. When I went back to start the car it will not start. Everything turns on even the push button light turns green but while pressing the brake pedal the car won't crank. I do hear the fuel pump but no crank. Could it be that the fuel pump went bad? I checked the fuses and they all look good. I disconnected the battery for 10 minutes and hooked everything up and nothing. I checked the battery and it is good to. Battery is only six months old. I also tried to give it a jump with a friend and nothing.
Hopefully someone who has had this issue can direct me in the right direction.
Thanks
Need your help. So my car started up like normal when I left work. When I got home I turned off the car and went inside the house to change. When I went back to start the car it will not start. Everything turns on even the push button light turns green but while pressing the brake pedal the car won't crank. I do hear the fuel pump but no crank. Could it be that the fuel pump went bad? I checked the fuses and they all look good. I disconnected the battery for 10 minutes and hooked everything up and nothing. I checked the battery and it is good to. Battery is only six months old. I also tried to give it a jump with a friend and nothing.
Hopefully someone who has had this issue can direct me in the right direction.
Thanks
Last edited by jay90011; Sep 13, 2013 at 09:18 PM.
a few things to look at:
1. shift to N and then back to P.. sometimes it may not be fully engaged.
2. starter could be a culprit, if you can possibly tap the starter while someone tries to crank, thats one way of testing, but it may be difficult to reach because its under the driver side exhaust manifold.
3. any signs of corrosion on battery terminals?
The problem symptoms table in the TIS says to follow these steps after checking battery has good voltage for no crank.
1. Check push-start function initialization
2. Immobilizer System
3. ECM power source circuit
4. VC output circuit
5. Cranking holding function circuit
6. Starter
1. shift to N and then back to P.. sometimes it may not be fully engaged.
2. starter could be a culprit, if you can possibly tap the starter while someone tries to crank, thats one way of testing, but it may be difficult to reach because its under the driver side exhaust manifold.
3. any signs of corrosion on battery terminals?
The problem symptoms table in the TIS says to follow these steps after checking battery has good voltage for no crank.
1. Check push-start function initialization
2. Immobilizer System
3. ECM power source circuit
4. VC output circuit
5. Cranking holding function circuit
6. Starter
Last edited by vinsanity2; Sep 13, 2013 at 10:02 PM.
Thread Starter
Pole Position
iTrader: (23)
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From: CA - DTLA/LAX
Thread Starter
Pole Position
iTrader: (23)
Joined: Oct 2009
Posts: 372
Likes: 14
From: CA - DTLA/LAX
a few things to look at:
1. shift to N and then back to P.. sometimes it may not be fully engaged.
- I tried this and still wont start.
2. starter could be a culprit, if you can possibly tap the starter while someone tries to crank, thats one way of testing, but it may be difficult to reach because its under the driver side exhaust manifold.
- I will have to try this tomorrow and see if this could be the culprit.
3. any signs of corrosion on battery terminals?
- No Corrosion on any of the battery terminals
The problem symptoms table in the TIS says to follow these steps after checking battery has good voltage for no crank.
1. Check push-start function initialization
- i don't think this maybe the problem because the push button turns green when i press on the brake pedal.
2. Immobilizer System
- My car still recognizes my key fog and locks/unlocks the doors fine.
3. ECM power source circuit
- Not sure where this circuit is at. if you can tell me where it is i can hopefully check to see if this maybe the problem.
4. VC output circuit
- Not sure where this circuit is as well.
5. Cranking holding function circuit
6. Starter
1. shift to N and then back to P.. sometimes it may not be fully engaged.
- I tried this and still wont start.
2. starter could be a culprit, if you can possibly tap the starter while someone tries to crank, thats one way of testing, but it may be difficult to reach because its under the driver side exhaust manifold.
- I will have to try this tomorrow and see if this could be the culprit.
3. any signs of corrosion on battery terminals?
- No Corrosion on any of the battery terminals
The problem symptoms table in the TIS says to follow these steps after checking battery has good voltage for no crank.
1. Check push-start function initialization
- i don't think this maybe the problem because the push button turns green when i press on the brake pedal.
2. Immobilizer System
- My car still recognizes my key fog and locks/unlocks the doors fine.
3. ECM power source circuit
- Not sure where this circuit is at. if you can tell me where it is i can hopefully check to see if this maybe the problem.
4. VC output circuit
- Not sure where this circuit is as well.
5. Cranking holding function circuit
6. Starter
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Awesome, thanks for the pdf's. So my issue is with my starter it is bad.
I also tapped on the starter and the car started. But after turning it on several times it finally gave out again.
Just ordered a new starter right now so my car will be on jack stands till it comes in.
I also tapped on the starter and the car started. But after turning it on several times it finally gave out again.
Just ordered a new starter right now so my car will be on jack stands till it comes in.
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Just thought i would share. So this weekend i received my rebuilt starter that i bought on ebay.
Comes out that it is 1/2 inch longer than the oem starter that was on the vehicle. When i attempted to install the rebuilt starter it would not fit. The space to install the starter is so cramped up small that it would not budge to align it with the opening. I ended up buying a rebuilt kit from napa and replaced just the solenoid after researching the common issues with starters.
I changed out the solenoid from the original starter and greased up the internals as well with axle grease. I installed the Oem starter again and went in to start the car and the car turned over and started.
Now the only question i have is, Do all starters sound the same when starting a vehicle? I ask because even though the car starts on the first second of pushing the push button it sounds much different than the original solenoid.
Comes out that it is 1/2 inch longer than the oem starter that was on the vehicle. When i attempted to install the rebuilt starter it would not fit. The space to install the starter is so cramped up small that it would not budge to align it with the opening. I ended up buying a rebuilt kit from napa and replaced just the solenoid after researching the common issues with starters.
I changed out the solenoid from the original starter and greased up the internals as well with axle grease. I installed the Oem starter again and went in to start the car and the car turned over and started.
Now the only question i have is, Do all starters sound the same when starting a vehicle? I ask because even though the car starts on the first second of pushing the push button it sounds much different than the original solenoid.
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