It will work. I just completed it. Was a bit of work though.

 

can some one tell me how to remove this clip

 

That looks like the one that pulls down from the top to latch. To open would be the reverse so, making sure that you support both sides equally just pull up on the dark brown outer latch and it will come up and swivel back and free up the ribbon cable.

 

I've tried and its very tight........does any one know if there is some trick to getting this off without breaking something?

 

Here's my experience.
didn't work but sharing what I did to help others.
Extracting the unit took 2 hours!

DO NOT ATTEMPT THIS IF YOU ARE NOT GOOD AT THIS KIND OF THING.

* Did not remove entire unit, only the screen box component
* Got no reading from multimeter
* Used flathead screwdriver to scratch clear coating on the ribbon before it touches the screen
* Used circuit writer on all 4 points, let it sit for 6 hours, with the screen on an angle facing down (ribbon on top)

EDIT: I realised afterward that I had not scratched the ribbon cable to actually expose the copper.
I am redoing the whole process now and will post results

* touch still does not work after re-installing

some screenshots to show what I did.

 

Success.
Second time I actually scratched the plastic of the ribbon flex cable until i reached orange copper.
Then I also scratched the line of clear plastic visible between the cable and the screen.
I then filled with circuit writer fluid.
See below, much cleaner and clearly why it worked.

PS: You don't have to remove the screen from the housing. Save the time. Skip the multimeter too. Just do them all.

 

I think what would be great is if someone could write a concise "Quick Guide to doing this which combines the best of everyones experiences.

I noticed a lot of things could be done differently than what some people said.
For example

- Skipping multimeter completely
- Not taking the screens frame apart and just scratching/liquid writing with it inside its frame & attached to the back circuit board
- Not taking the whole nav unit out, just unscrewing the screen box

These 3 alone will save about 30minutes for the average user

 

@ fatjoez : Thanks a lot for the input. Its been 4 months since my Screen had died. Now that you have show me a easier and quicker way.. will def try now.

 

Happy to help, PM me if you need guidance

 

Anyone in FL willing to help? I initially got good readings between 1 and 3 but not 2 and 4 but in process now have no readings between any pins. I can ship my screen or meet up if near Jacksonville or Coral Springs in Broward.

 

Never mind. Everything dried and works great now. Thanks!

 

I did the fix with the Circuitwriter pen and put the Nav back in I can't remember if there was anything plugged into the dark blue connector near the top of the Nav system. Everything seems to be plugged in.
Can someone help me out with this???

 

lol pull it out and check. there's no easy way around it sorry buddy.

 

I guess what I'm trying to ask is: Should there be a connector plugged into the dark blue connection on the top of the nav unit or left blank? If so, in what direction is it coming from the dash? If anyone has pictures of this connection that would be great if they could share? This is not a ML nav unit if that helps.

 

Ahhhhhh I think I remember something about Non-ML units having one socket which has no plug going into it.