I was wondering if there were any subwoofers out there that would fit without any modification into the basic IS audio system slot that would provide better bass. I am terrible with modifying things, and figure a simple plug and play would be best. Any and all help is appreciated. Thanks!

 

thanks cmusic for the great write up. I'm having some issues with my after market amp and sub. A shop did an installation for my amp and a 12 inch sub in my IS250 and the bass does not sound good at all. Too much when there’s no need, and not enough when there’s supposed to be more. I’m getting too much low end and no mid range bass. There’s no “boom” factor. When I use the fader, to move it all the way to the front speakers, there are no bass from the sub, it only has bass when it’s faded to the rear speakers. I do have the MTX RE-Q installed, but that didn’t solve the issue. Could this be an wiring issue? The shop said the tapped the sub to the rear door speakers, but I read here that’s not the case how it’s supposed to be installed. Some one please give me some advice. I plan to go back to the place where I had them installed, and ask them to re-do it if it wasn’t done properly.

 

Lexboi250,
If you read Cmusic's suggestion, your installer should have tapped the stock subwoofer's speaker wires instead of the rear speakers, and run it to the MTX RE-Q.
Your installer messed up.

 

Yup agreed. Take it back.

 

Hi, I'm looking to add some serious bass with two kicker 12" L7's rated at 750 watts rms each, so I need about 2000 watts rms in total. I was told at an audio shop that anything over 1000 watts would require upgrading the alternator. I have been looking for a more powerfull alternator for a 2006 IS350 without success, can anyone help with that?

 

Bump - and wondering if anyone has install thed Pioneer TS-SW841D in the stock sub location?

I am considering picking this one up, can get it online for about $90 +/-.

 

I'm also considering doing this on my IS-F. I'd like to know if the sub works ok in a free-air application like this and if the stock wattage is going to be ok...I don't really need more bass per se, I just want to be able to dial in max bass and still turn the volume up without sounding like I'm bottoming out the stock sub.

Anyone replaced their stock sub and run it off the ML amp?

 

Hi all, just wanted to set something straight... since i have read 6 pages of threads and wanted to get this right...

1. I want to install 1 preloaded ported box with an inifinity perfect 12.1 sub and an infinity 611a amp to power it. Tsunami 4 gauge wire kit to connect it.

How do i hook this up without affecting the pre-existing speakers as i am content with their performance. sorry if this was answered before and i missed it but i am wondering how to bypass the stock amp without affecting the original setup and just trying to add a little base.... THANK YOU in advance!!!!

p.s. do i need a converter for this simple "not by my standards" setup?

 

Has anyone ever switched the non-ml the ml one? Desipite cost

 

The amps or the speakers?

They're not good when compared to the aftermarket gear. Longevity seems to be the main problem with the ML speakers and the ML amps. You can tell that they produced these on the lowest possible dollar while hyping the name of Mark Levinson.

 

Tap the wires for the subwoofer. Feed them to a line level converter. Then feed the LLC (line level converter) signal into the amp. Connect power, remote and speaker to the amp.

 

Question : I want aftermarket sound system including amps/subs/speakers but i love (perfer) the oem navi with the push button command.

does the nav have rca out or how would i get aftermarket with stock oem nav?

is the only option with loc? llc?

so on an is 350 with NOT ML you still have stock amp?

 

i went through some of the thread and couldn't find this question if anyone has asked but i was wondering if you could teach me how to take out the back subs. how would i disconnect it and take it out?

 

dont know if this has been asked and YES I have done a search - many of them...cant seem to find this answer.

I have seen all the threads in reference to getting signal from the factory amp and all of its outputs, merging them in to 1 full range signal , etc.

What I want to know is...once you do this ...lets say you would like to keep your factory speakers. so you now have the full range signal going to your amplifier...but now from the amp you will have a + and - to go to lets say the front driver door (which has 3 speakers woofer, mid, tweeter) how do you now get the one set (+ and -) from the amp to go to all 3 sets of those wires going to the speakers in the car?


it seems no one has touched on how to do that as yet--if I am not mistaken

How do you get lets say the front left and right speaker outputs from your aftermarket amp to your factory front left and front right door speakers when there are 3 sets of +and- wires to go to the 3 speakers (woofer, mid and tweeter)?

you dont have woofer, mid and tweeter outputs from your 4 channel amp in order to do this...so audio guys how do you get passed that one?

thanks in advance!

 

Well, you've figured it out, you can't. Either you leave the factory crossed over channels seperate, and amplify them. Or you do a lot of reading, take some electronics classes, and design and build your own three way passive crossovers. I'd either live with what you've got, or go all in. All in includes a loc, amps, and aftermarket component speakers with passive crossovers (or an active setup) and a proper sub. Your going to spend a lot to get substantially better sound than stock.($1500/$2000)