Hi, apologies if I've missed this in a previous thread, but I have a VSC error that I'd like help interpreting. I've used the jumping technique (RX400h) between OBDII connector pins 4 on the top row and 5 on the bottom row to enter the diagnostic display. The code I see is VSC 51 in the main display. Counting the flashes of the yellow warning light, I am getting 5 flashes followed by 8 flashes, which I presume is a code 58. Can anyone help me in interpreting what this code is?

Also, I suspect that the generation of this code may be related to a failing 12v battery. I've purchased an Optima yellow top to replace existing battery 9 unfortunately it arrived reading 12.24v, so I'm charging it ahead of use. I s there a specific procedure for replacing the battery? Also, is there an alternative to pressing the brake pedal eight times etc to clear error codes?

Any guidance very much appreciated - obviously I'm keen to ensure that a real error is not overlooked, whilst mindful that 12v issues are frequently the underlies of such gremlins!

Regards,
J.

 

Optima is a deep cycle battery so you'd be better off having a DC capable charger. They are very common and inexpensive now. Walmart or any parts store. I got mine for $26 or so. Conventional battery, DC battery, 2 and 6A charging, battery minder mode.
I STRONGLY recommend to have back up 12V connected to cables when replacing battery. You do not need much as it is quick procedure, buy yet... If goof lights come up after replacement, do 3 consecutive complete Start/Shut down cycles, it is supposed to make them go away.
To clear codes, pull ECM main fuse out, whatever it is for your year. It is one and only safe way to do so on hybrids.

 

Many thanks for the advice - much appreciated. The code did not clear itself despite the battery being pulled overnight. When I did install the battery I left it for a couple of hours before attempting start-up, and locked/unlocked doors a few times/left it further thirty mins (all gleaned from previous postings) - all to no avail as the code was still there. I then checked the 2/2 o2 sensor as I saw that a p0058 code might be related to that, but it tested fine. I eventually managed to clear the vsc51 / 58 code by deliberately generating an additional code by pulling the brake fluid level sensor. I then managed to clear both codes using the repeated brake pedal press technique. All ran fine on a 30min drive after that. I'm hoping that it will still be clear tomorrow! Else, I'll be using the technique you very kindly outlined - thank you.

To try and avoid all this in future, I've ordered a mini VCI so I can try the tech stream route if necessary

Incidentally, I have a yuasa ycx 5.0 (basically, a rebadged ctek equivalent) which seemed to do a decent job of bringing the optima up...

 

Usually codes take several driving cycles to clear themselves. Or, pulling ECM fuse overnight.
I also do not understand what you mean by " despite the battery being pulled overnight. "
If you disconnected 12V to clear codes, it's a road to disaster on hybrids. They don't like it. Pulling fuse does the job. And is superiorly safe.

 

Techstream will allow you to dfo MANY things with your car. Even as basic as brakes bleeding or inverter pump coolant replacement.

 

Understood. I was just trying to follow advice from other postings before starting a thread. Incidentally, despite the codes clearing and the 30min test drive with no errors, the error was back on attempting to start the following day. I'm now going to wait until my cable arrives so that I can attempt the Techstream route ... grrrr. My suspicion now is that the code is "real" ... I'd still be interested to know what VSC 51 means, and what 58 flashes of the round orange warning light signifies.... I'll report back with my trials and tribulations....

 

Thanks - sounds like I'd have been needing it at some point anyway. Is it particularly difficult to set-up and use? I've ordered a mini vci cable with 2.0.4 firmware that allegedly runs on pretty much any windows 32bit os, including win10. I've also found a thread detailing use on 64bit systems. Any upfront pointers much appreciated!

 

Update - I've cleared the errors using Techstream and taken the car for a decent run - all seemed to be performing as normal, with no warning light during drive. However, on returning to car two days later, the hybrid control and vsc warnings were back and the vehicle would not enter "ready" mode. Techstream "health check" produced the following codes:

P0A60 Drive Motor "A" Phase V Current
P0A63 Drive Motor "A" Phase W Current
P0A72 Generator Phase V Current
P0A75 Generator Phase W Current
P0A78 Drive Motor "A" Inverter Performance
P0A7A Generator Inverter Performance
P0AEF Drive Motor Inverter Temperature Sensor "A" Circuit Low
P3222 Generator Inverter Temperature Sensor Circuit High/Low
C1259 HV Control System Regenerative Malfunction
C1310 HV System Malfunction

Can anyone suggest what might be wrong? I've attached a spreadsheet of the full data output of the health check, too.... any assistance much appreciated!

Best,
J.

 

Update - this whole saga seems to be boiling down to the aux battery. I charged it in-situ overnight.This morning, with 13.2 v showing, the car started perfectly and I was able to clear the stored error codes. I carried out a systematic parasitic drain check. So far, nothing untoward, but I've left the vehicle locked and am checking the battery every few hours over a two day period as a test to see whether any unusual drain observed. I'll report back... in the meantime, figures on normal background draw would be useful, if anyone has insight? Best, J.

 

This issue reared it's head again - fwiw - this was a p3222 error and down to an intermittent loose connection into the mg ecu. Inverter temps MG1 and MG2 were open/ground so showing 150C. Many thanks to Nad1370 on this forum for putting me on the correct track! R, J.