VCS 51 CODE 58 - help!
#1
Driver School Candidate
Thread Starter
VCS 51 CODE 58 - help!
Hi, apologies if I've missed this in a previous thread, but I have a VSC error that I'd like help interpreting. I've used the jumping technique (RX400h) between OBDII connector pins 4 on the top row and 5 on the bottom row to enter the diagnostic display. The code I see is VSC 51 in the main display. Counting the flashes of the yellow warning light, I am getting 5 flashes followed by 8 flashes, which I presume is a code 58. Can anyone help me in interpreting what this code is?
Also, I suspect that the generation of this code may be related to a failing 12v battery. I've purchased an Optima yellow top to replace existing battery 9 unfortunately it arrived reading 12.24v, so I'm charging it ahead of use. I s there a specific procedure for replacing the battery? Also, is there an alternative to pressing the brake pedal eight times etc to clear error codes?
Any guidance very much appreciated - obviously I'm keen to ensure that a real error is not overlooked, whilst mindful that 12v issues are frequently the underlies of such gremlins!
Regards,
J.
Also, I suspect that the generation of this code may be related to a failing 12v battery. I've purchased an Optima yellow top to replace existing battery 9 unfortunately it arrived reading 12.24v, so I'm charging it ahead of use. I s there a specific procedure for replacing the battery? Also, is there an alternative to pressing the brake pedal eight times etc to clear error codes?
Any guidance very much appreciated - obviously I'm keen to ensure that a real error is not overlooked, whilst mindful that 12v issues are frequently the underlies of such gremlins!
Regards,
J.
#2
Optima is a deep cycle battery so you'd be better off having a DC capable charger. They are very common and inexpensive now. Walmart or any parts store. I got mine for $26 or so. Conventional battery, DC battery, 2 and 6A charging, battery minder mode.
I STRONGLY recommend to have back up 12V connected to cables when replacing battery. You do not need much as it is quick procedure, buy yet... If goof lights come up after replacement, do 3 consecutive complete Start/Shut down cycles, it is supposed to make them go away.
To clear codes, pull ECM main fuse out, whatever it is for your year. It is one and only safe way to do so on hybrids.
I STRONGLY recommend to have back up 12V connected to cables when replacing battery. You do not need much as it is quick procedure, buy yet... If goof lights come up after replacement, do 3 consecutive complete Start/Shut down cycles, it is supposed to make them go away.
To clear codes, pull ECM main fuse out, whatever it is for your year. It is one and only safe way to do so on hybrids.
#3
Driver School Candidate
Thread Starter
Optima is a deep cycle battery so you'd be better off having a DC capable charger. They are very common and inexpensive now. Walmart or any parts store. I got mine for $26 or so. Conventional battery, DC battery, 2 and 6A charging, battery minder mode.
I STRONGLY recommend to have back up 12V connected to cables when replacing battery. You do not need much as it is quick procedure, buy yet... If goof lights come up after replacement, do 3 consecutive complete Start/Shut down cycles, it is supposed to make them go away.
To clear codes, pull ECM main fuse out, whatever it is for your year. It is one and only safe way to do so on hybrids.
I STRONGLY recommend to have back up 12V connected to cables when replacing battery. You do not need much as it is quick procedure, buy yet... If goof lights come up after replacement, do 3 consecutive complete Start/Shut down cycles, it is supposed to make them go away.
To clear codes, pull ECM main fuse out, whatever it is for your year. It is one and only safe way to do so on hybrids.
To try and avoid all this in future, I've ordered a mini VCI so I can try the tech stream route if necessary
Incidentally, I have a yuasa ycx 5.0 (basically, a rebadged ctek equivalent) which seemed to do a decent job of bringing the optima up...
#4
Usually codes take several driving cycles to clear themselves. Or, pulling ECM fuse overnight.
I also do not understand what you mean by " despite the battery being pulled overnight. "
If you disconnected 12V to clear codes, it's a road to disaster on hybrids. They don't like it. Pulling fuse does the job. And is superiorly safe.
I also do not understand what you mean by " despite the battery being pulled overnight. "
If you disconnected 12V to clear codes, it's a road to disaster on hybrids. They don't like it. Pulling fuse does the job. And is superiorly safe.
#6
Driver School Candidate
Thread Starter
Usually codes take several driving cycles to clear themselves. Or, pulling ECM fuse overnight.
I also do not understand what you mean by " despite the battery being pulled overnight. "
If you disconnected 12V to clear codes, it's a road to disaster on hybrids. They don't like it. Pulling fuse does the job. And is superiorly safe.
I also do not understand what you mean by " despite the battery being pulled overnight. "
If you disconnected 12V to clear codes, it's a road to disaster on hybrids. They don't like it. Pulling fuse does the job. And is superiorly safe.
#7
Driver School Candidate
Thread Starter
Thanks - sounds like I'd have been needing it at some point anyway. Is it particularly difficult to set-up and use? I've ordered a mini vci cable with 2.0.4 firmware that allegedly runs on pretty much any windows 32bit os, including win10. I've also found a thread detailing use on 64bit systems. Any upfront pointers much appreciated!
Trending Topics
#8
Driver School Candidate
Thread Starter
Update - I've cleared the errors using Techstream and taken the car for a decent run - all seemed to be performing as normal, with no warning light during drive. However, on returning to car two days later, the hybrid control and vsc warnings were back and the vehicle would not enter "ready" mode. Techstream "health check" produced the following codes:
P0A60 Drive Motor "A" Phase V Current
P0A63 Drive Motor "A" Phase W Current
P0A72 Generator Phase V Current
P0A75 Generator Phase W Current
P0A78 Drive Motor "A" Inverter Performance
P0A7A Generator Inverter Performance
P0AEF Drive Motor Inverter Temperature Sensor "A" Circuit Low
P3222 Generator Inverter Temperature Sensor Circuit High/Low
C1259 HV Control System Regenerative Malfunction
C1310 HV System Malfunction
Can anyone suggest what might be wrong? I've attached a spreadsheet of the full data output of the health check, too.... any assistance much appreciated!
Best,
J.
P0A60 Drive Motor "A" Phase V Current
P0A63 Drive Motor "A" Phase W Current
P0A72 Generator Phase V Current
P0A75 Generator Phase W Current
P0A78 Drive Motor "A" Inverter Performance
P0A7A Generator Inverter Performance
P0AEF Drive Motor Inverter Temperature Sensor "A" Circuit Low
P3222 Generator Inverter Temperature Sensor Circuit High/Low
C1259 HV Control System Regenerative Malfunction
C1310 HV System Malfunction
Can anyone suggest what might be wrong? I've attached a spreadsheet of the full data output of the health check, too.... any assistance much appreciated!
Best,
J.
#9
Driver School Candidate
Thread Starter
Update - I've cleared the errors using Techstream and taken the car for a decent run - all seemed to be performing as normal, with no warning light during drive. However, on returning to car two days later, the hybrid control and vsc warnings were back and the vehicle would not enter "ready" mode. Techstream "health check" produced the following codes:
P0A60 Drive Motor "A" Phase V Current
P0A63 Drive Motor "A" Phase W Current
P0A72 Generator Phase V Current
P0A75 Generator Phase W Current
P0A78 Drive Motor "A" Inverter Performance
P0A7A Generator Inverter Performance
P0AEF Drive Motor Inverter Temperature Sensor "A" Circuit Low
P3222 Generator Inverter Temperature Sensor Circuit High/Low
C1259 HV Control System Regenerative Malfunction
C1310 HV System Malfunction
Can anyone suggest what might be wrong? I've attached a spreadsheet of the full data output of the health check, too.... any assistance much appreciated!
Best,
J.
P0A60 Drive Motor "A" Phase V Current
P0A63 Drive Motor "A" Phase W Current
P0A72 Generator Phase V Current
P0A75 Generator Phase W Current
P0A78 Drive Motor "A" Inverter Performance
P0A7A Generator Inverter Performance
P0AEF Drive Motor Inverter Temperature Sensor "A" Circuit Low
P3222 Generator Inverter Temperature Sensor Circuit High/Low
C1259 HV Control System Regenerative Malfunction
C1310 HV System Malfunction
Can anyone suggest what might be wrong? I've attached a spreadsheet of the full data output of the health check, too.... any assistance much appreciated!
Best,
J.
#10
Driver School Candidate
Thread Starter
Update - this whole saga seems to be boiling down to the aux battery. I charged it in-situ overnight.This morning, with 13.2 v showing, the car started perfectly and I was able to clear the stored error codes. I carried out a systematic parasitic drain check. So far, nothing untoward, but I've left the vehicle locked and am checking the battery every few hours over a two day period as a test to see whether any unusual drain observed. I'll report back... in the meantime, figures on normal background draw would be useful, if anyone has insight? Best, J.
The following users liked this post:
Xenith (09-08-21)
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post