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Are all the bushings in good shape? You can definitely replace them with neoprene bushing to make them more stiff. The rear sway bar bushings can be relatively easy to replace and it does stiff up quite a bit.
Thanks, that is a good idea. I don't know how the active roll works and if stiffening up the bushings would just have the computer be less aggressive on the rear but it is a easy cheap attempt that I should do anyway after 9 years. Thanks!
KDSS should help with body roll but the rear (and even the front) bushings could be deteriorated that they no longer works well. I replaced the rear one swaybar/KDSS bushings with OEM and it stiffs up noticeably. I imaging neoprene would stiffen it up even more but the downsize is you need to grease it often as it may squeak.
Originally Posted by jobpatto
Thanks, that is a good idea. I don't know how the active roll works and if stiffening up the bushings would just have the computer be less aggressive on the rear but it is a easy cheap attempt that I should do anyway after 9 years. Thanks!
IMO those prices are astronomical. I just replaced my radiator, upper and lower hoses, thermostat and housing and water pump for $300 in parts from RockAuto and Indy mechanic for $300 in labor. Like another poster stated the Vbelt should have no labor charge as your paying for it twice with the water pump labor. Shocks for the base model can be purchased online for under $400 for all 4 and it’s not a hard job to do at all so labor should be minimal. The only issue I don’t know enough about is the KDSS accumulator, but I can tell you EBay or salvage yards would be my first stop. Not sure about the labor on the KDSS repair either. I am pretty confident that if you call and shop around you could take care of everything for 1/3 of the total Stealership price. I’m In Massachusetts as well and live in the North Shore where there are plenty qualified Indy shops.
Update: took car to a couple of indy shops, unfortunately accumator assembly does seem to be a problem. Found OEM parts for less than half the prices in some cases from ebay, got a quote to get all KDSS work done for 2100 bucks. Luckily my third party warranty covers pump and other work, so cars in the shop now getting fixed. Lexus was kind enough to offer me a courtesy car even if i chose to get my work done outside, which was a pleasant surprise.
2012 GX460 with KDSS Light on. Error Codes C1831 and C1832
Got a 2012 GX460 with KDSS Light on. Error Codes are C1831 (Upside Accumulator Solenoid) and C1832 (Downside Accumulator Solenoid).
The dealer replaced the KDSS ECU but that changed nothing. Any idea what else it could be ? I took off the electrical connector to the accumulator - all 6 pins looked good. Cleaned it with some electrical cleaner spray but that didnt change anything. Any thoughts on what I should be next greatly appreciated.
Got a 2012 GX460 with KDSS Light on. Error Codes are C1831 (Upside Accumulator Solenoid) and C1832 (Downside Accumulator Solenoid).
The dealer replaced the KDSS ECU but that changed nothing. Any idea what else it could be ? I took off the electrical connector to the accumulator - all 6 pins looked good. Cleaned it with some electrical cleaner spray but that didnt change anything. Any thoughts on what I should be next greatly appreciated.
They should be able to test the solenoids with Techstream, and listen to them function.
Installed Treaty Oak KDSS spacers to the rear only tonight and saw an immediate difference. Prior to install, I would run a lean of up to 1.5cm down toward rear passenger. After install and drive around the block I took some measurements and not only is the rear within a few mm of each side, but so is the front. I'm planning on adding the front spacer at the next oil change when I also plan to install my new front skid. I'll be taking additional measurements over the next few weeks to confirm that I'm finally 'balanced'.
Looking at a 2013 GX 460 with 75k miles. Worried about KDSS going out and spending extra thousands of $ to repair. Is this something that is bound to go out and I should budget for?
IMO: I would not let KDSS stop you. Yes..you will find a "very small" number of failures in as you look around ...but this is not an overall common failure point on the 460 in "US market". A leaky front or rear cylinder are usually the issue unless the actuator unit itself has suffered from extensive corrosion.
Looking at a 2013 GX 460 with 75k miles. Worried about KDSS going out and spending extra thousands of $ to repair. Is this something that is bound to go out and I should budget for?
75k is not many miles at all. As long at is has been maintained and ain’t from the rust belt, it’ll be fine. I got my 13 with 120 on it and have had zero issues. It drives as nice as my wife’s 17.
Update: took car to a couple of indy shops, unfortunately accumator assembly does seem to be a problem. Found OEM parts for less than half the prices in some cases from ebay, got a quote to get all KDSS work done for 2100 bucks. Luckily my third party warranty covers pump and other work, so cars in the shop now getting fixed. Lexus was kind enough to offer me a courtesy car even if i chose to get my work done outside, which was a pleasant surprise.
Going through a similar scenario right now. Quoted $6800 by a dealership to fix KDSS accumulator and lines on my my 2014 GX. Trying to find a mechanic in MA that can work on KDSS. Mind sharing who you went with for the repair?
One of the "temp" KDSS bypass options disrupts this wire (Pin 4-Female side) at KDSS accumulator when activated
R23 connector is one that attaches to Accumulator
Pin #4 ground connection terminates at R41 in left rear of vehicle
Let's call it the "FREE" "evaluation mode" for this mod
I haven't checked but might be possible to access this plug via the jack area. I still haven't found anything else that terminates at this ground... there could be though.
I'll probably put my borescope up in there in the future to see where it is at.
Some may ask why not just put a switch on positive pin #24 or Ground #22 on KDSS ECU to have the same effect but numerous 4R threads suggested this simply locked KDSS in firm mode... or pulling the fuse
